Fly tying materials in the Wild : Polypropylene Yarn

A Big Step for a Wading Angler, Contemplating the Move to an Angling Kayak

Fly fishing from a kayak is a welcome transition for the heretofore shore bound angler, as many of the issues that haunt slippery rocks and low hanging branches vanish with the mobility that boating offers. There are also many new hazards you’ll encounter and many tendencies that must be left on shore where they belong.

Getting Your Mind Right, dealing with Hoarding Instincts

The only storage constraint on the wading angler is the capacity of his fishing vest. The practice of wadding everything into a maze of pockets to resupply the angler afield has morphed into a garment carrying old sandwiches, partially consumed protein bars, fly boxes, foam floats, rain ponchos, snakebite kits, tippet spools, insect repellant and the obligatory snarl of toilet paper.

These hoarding instincts we learned early as doting parents insisted our “angling empire” fit into one tackle box, later one fly box, and culminating into one overly warm car trunk, or closet.

While there are many kinds of kayaks and all with different options, angling kayaks offer the illusion that you can increase the amount of gear carried as the boat does the physical lifting instead of you. Suddenly that onboard storage sprouts neo-essentials like; extra drinks, dry clothes, spare spools, baby diapers (from a prior adventure) and a backup rod, and you must resist this hoarding instinct – as it will be your undoing.

The size and weight of your boat will influence where it can be launched. Longer kayaks are faster in the water but can be heavier on land. Wheel assemblies can be added to most kayaks to equip them for pavement, dirt, or beach sand, and assist the launching process tremendously. The wrong wheel type makes the launch extra burdensome, as thin narrow pavement wheels will dig into mud or sand and make the boat hard to move. New or strange lakes offer unknown launch scenarios and our Western states are in a multi-year drought, complicating matters further. As lake levels recede due to drought, the distance between parking area and the water’s edge increases. Man made lakes are typically steep “bowls” designed to as much water as possible, so it’s not a long, level walk to the water’s edge – it’s a sloping downhill slide with your kayak threatening to alternately run you over or drag you downhill.

Complicating things further is the composition of the newly exposed slope, which is often alternating bands of decomposing rock, loose soil, and shale. As you near the water include weeds and scrub growth, as well as sand and mud, ensuring your footing and launch are a mix of dicey and downright treacherous.

Fortunately, the easy part is getting the boat downhill … Gravity is a willing accomplice and while strenuous, rolling the boat down to the water’s edge gives you an invisible helper.

The return trip is another story…

After a long day on the water you have a physical and arduous climb UPHILL to the car. Cart wheels will fight you on every rock and root, dig deep into mud or loose cobble, and your footing will be uncertain due to loose shale and gravel, making that 100 yard trek back to the pavement nothing short of heart pounding torture. Adding to the mix is all the water you added into the hull via pedal motor housing, or simply slopping it into the boat via flopping fish and exuberance.

Many launch scenarios may have your boat out of sight of the parking lot. Multiple trips to offload gear could find you leaving the boat filled with valuable tackle, cameras, and other expensive items undefended, in a high traffic area like a day use area or beach. You need to keep your boat light enough to handle the return all gear to your vehicle in a single trip.

Be frugal with gear. Consult the dry weight of the boat and remember you will be adding food, drinks, tackle, anchors, drink holders, floatation devices, and many things you have no expectations of owning … fish finders (containing transducers, batteries, and cable), anchor trollies, milk crates, rod holders, onboard wheel assemblies, and assorted cordage, cable ties, and pool noodles.

Traditional paddling kayaks (sit inside kayaks) are light with many 12 foot models only 50-65 pounds. Angling kayaks (sit on top kayaks) can weigh twice that as they contain many amenities unnecessary to a paddle kayak. Seats, storage, battery harness, cable controls, and pulleys all add extra weight, and boats can weigh over 100 pounds dry.

My Hobie ProAngler 360 kayak is 12 feet long and weighs 105 (2020 weight, 2022 weight is 109.5) pounds empty. It is the “leaden battleship” of angling kayaks, not due to its size – rather due to its features and ability to expand via the Hobie Rail System. Assume you’re carrying nearly 40 pounds of tackle, 10 pounds of anchors, cordage and landing nets, a couple of rods, 5 pounds of drinks and food and all the leashes, tethers, and floatation devices (PFD), and you’re likely to tip the scales at 160-170 pounds, counting the inboard water. This is not a trivial burden on a thirty degree slope with uncertain footing …

You need to remain vigilant on what you add to your kayak, and you need to unload items unique to a specific trip on your return – so they don’t add unnecessary weight to your boat. Lowrance and similar fish finders are easily mounted to your new kayak, but do you really need to know there are fish fifty feet below you? Fishing a jig, fifty feet is nothing, fishing a fly and that same fifty feet is an insurmountable depth.

I carry a thermometer instead. I can check water temperature as needed, and while it’s not as convenient as on a Hummingbird screen, it is a hell of a lot lighter.

I can’t tell you which kayak is best – neither can the staff that sell them ..

There are many really good angling kayaks, most run between $1500 –$5000, which is significant cost, nearly all are worth every penny spent.

There is no “best” kayak, there is however a “best” kayak tailored to you, your needs, and the uniqueness of your fishing. Some will use them in both freshwater and salt, some in still water only, some for fly and spinning, some will troll, some in estuary or riverine environments, all will be stable and seaworthy craft, but the features you need for fly fishing are not obvious …

Pick your new kayak based on its power plant, its ability to reverse direction (instant reverse), and extensibility. These are unquestionably the most important features for fly fishermen.

Power Plant: Pedal versus Paddle: Both work, but one seems tailored to fly fishing

Fly fishing is a uniquely “hand intensive” fishing style. We require constant contact with the rod and line to cast, mend, gather, and impart motion to the fly. Paddle kayaks require two hands gripping the kayak paddle, pedal kayaks are powered by an angler’s legs, leaving both hands free to cast or strip while the boat is under power.

Personal Opinion ** : My personal opinion is that pedal kayaks are best suited for fly fishermen, as they offer the unique ability to cast and move at the same time. Paddle kayaks are fine for fly fishing, but you have to lay down the rod to move any distance, and you’re constantly swapping rod and paddle, allowing running line to catch on all manner of things in the boat as you paddle to adjust your attitude towards shore or target. You WILL drop things in the water if you fish enough, do you want to risk your rod to the Briny Deep?

Pedal kayaks have two basic styles of motion; pedaling a propellor-equipped or pedaling a fin equipped motor for locomotion. Hobie uses “fins” to move the boat, all of the other manufacturers use the more traditional propellor for locomotion.

Regardless of the style of pedal motion, the core issue is your ability to snag the drive with your fly – or run over your fly line with the boat and get it tangled with the prop, and the motor’s ability to kick up when hitting an underwater object. Hobie fins have a hinge allowing them to fold up when striking an underwater object and restore themselves to the original configuration on the next power stroke. Prop drives have the ability to “kick up” in the same manner, but not all of them can do so, so it’s something to check on the boat, model, and manufacturer you’re contemplating.

You will hit underwater objects especially when you forget to retract the motor when landing the boat, or when you loan the craft to your idjit pal.

I have snagged my rudder, skeg, and fins while fishing, and it is problematic – but not overly so. You will learn to keep your fly line away from the boat as wind and pedaling can move the boat over your fly line and fly quickly. A tangle in the running line – or a few turns of loose line snagged on something inside the boat cockpit, and you risk getting the fly and line under the boat if under power. Recently, I disabled my rudder by snagging a large striper fly in the hinge and had to land the boat to remove the fly and restore rudder function.

With practice you will learn to stop your pedal motion and pause before casting. Kayaks are quite graceful in the water, and the boat will continue to move forward for 20 feet or so when you stop pedaling. Releasing your cast as the boat loses forward momentum means you do not roll over the line and do not have to frantically strip to catch up to the fly.

Instant Reverse: Floating Physics and the unique complications of kayak fly casting

A traditional “sit on top” fishing kayak has the angler seated about two thirds of the way down the boat towards the stern. The angler is a “sail-like” object, so his profile and its resistance to wind will add motion to the boat in any breeze.

If the wind is behind the angler the boat will drift forward, wind in front, boat will drift backward, etc. Motion of the boat will add drag to the fly, or make it move twice as fast as intended, given how the boat can swing in circles due to its “off center sail”. A fly fisherman will need to constantly adjust his attitude to his fly, as the boat can move in any direction at any time.

This is markedly different from the wading angler, who remains motionless while adjusting the line between him and the fly.

“Instant reverse” describes the ability to change the boat’s direction quickly, and has multiple flavors among the many kayak manufacturers. Because of the vagrancies of wind on the angler, instant reverse will be among the top three issues of your fly fishing experience, as you will be constantly adjusting the boat and its angle to the fly or shoreline.

Hobie kayaks have multiple flavors of reverse on their pedal kayaks, those that use the 180 drive require you to reach down and pull a cable to initiate reverse (the same to resume forward motion), and the newer 360 drive, which allows the motor to thrust at any angle in a 360 degree arc, requires you to turn a handle to pick the angle of thrust. Instant reverse then requires the handle to be spun 180 degrees to go backward, and returned 180 degrees to resume forward motion.

Propellor kayaks only require you to stop pedaling forward and pedal backward to reverse boat motion. Prop driven kayaks are superior to all others in this regard – and in my estimation are the only kayaks that offer true “instant reverse.”

I’ve not owned the propellor flavor, but having spent four seasons on a Hobie 360 – I am quite comfortable turning the handle while the boat is under power (as the rudder handle and motor thrust handle sit atop one another). The 360 Drive offers other mobility features superior to propellor kayaks as the drive thrust allows it to be turned without moving the boat forward, which is a huge advantage in tight quarters (think maneuvering in snags, docks, and chasing largemouth bass).

Personal Opinion**: Propellor based kayaks have true instant reverse, and in my estimation are superior to all others save paddle kayaks, which also have human powered “instant reverse” (typically preceded by the exclamation, “Oh, sh*t” …). The Hobie crank handle is fine, it’s simply not hand’s free like the propellor flavor. You never can have too many hands when managing fly line, boat motion, and sharp things flying in your direction …

Extensibility and all the gadgetry (weight) therein

One of the more important features in kayak selection is what extensions and capabilities can be added via third party. Hobie kayaks use a proprietary “H-Rail” system to attach additional features and connectivity to the boat. Their “H Rail” can be adapted to other standards via Scotty mounts, or RailBlaza Starport mounts. These connections to the boat allow you to add additional features that don’t come with the boat like fish finders, storage, GoPro Camera masts, rod holders, and dozens of other gadgets.

Hobie produces a generic plate mount attachment that allows you to modify, screw, or glue anything you wish to their hexagonal rail attachment, think Boom Box or similar outlandish need. Railblaza makes a similar, rotating platform attachment that is pre-drilled and can be modified, other vendors offer similar functionality.

Whichever kayak you fancy, ensure it has ample extensibility or you will regret the purchase. Not knowing what’s needed in the future or how your angling will change with a job related relocation, the extensibility of your kayak will determine how soon you outgrow it or whether that will happen.

When reviewing watercraft, determine which type of mounts and rails come native to the craft. Many of these can be added to older boats but require drilling holes in the hull, which adds additional issues with sealants, leaks, and the potential to weaken the craft via extensive modification. If you’re not being gifted a kayak or the sudden beneficiary of some similar freebie, I would recommend the purchase of a kayak that contains rails built into the superstructure or hull. The manufacturer choice I’ll leave to you, but get something allowing you to add to the base craft via supported mounts.

As other family members are likely to use your craft and don’t share your passion for fly fishing, the ability to add a drink holder or trolling rod holder may be highly desirable. Kayaks are a pleasant way to enjoy the out-of-doors and you don’t need to be a Purist to enjoy a comfortable seat, warm sun, and a “stroll” around the lake. In fact, the “smart” lad will market the purchase as a “family friendly” non-gas guzzling, Green Initiative – as the price tag for The Beast will have to be negotiated.

There are other ways to add capabilities to your kayak, most are tailored to the specific craft or extensibility it offers; rails versus mounts, etc. I will cover some ways to modify the Hobie when I write about the specific configuration I employ on my 12’ Hobie ProAngler 360.

Leashes and the need to strap everything down

Kayaks are tippy regardless of their size, and like canoes, standing up risks a bath. Kayaks are flat bottomed and lack a keel, so an aggressive lean to see or grab a fish coupled with a broadside wave strike and you could flip your boat instantly. Most angling kayaks are stable, and their stability increases with length, but the threat of an unexpected dunking is quite real, especially if you do something stupid.

Big fish make people stupid.

So does alcohol.

… as does that 24’ ski barge that rounded the point filled with liquored up Millennials … whose wake is about to sink you.

Everything you bring onto the boat must be securely stored via locked hatch or leashed to the superstructure with a lead designed for that purpose. This means once the hull storage is full, each item must be attached individually to the boat if you want to keep it. Paddle, Landing Net, Tackle containers, rod, drinks, food, pedal drive, yourself, anchor, absolutely everything not sealed within the hull must be leashed. If the boat flips, and it will, everything will disappear into the depths or float away while you scramble to get back aboard.

I am leashed to the rail as well. This way the boat cannot move more than six feet from me once I tumble into the water.

My Hobie ProAngler has restraints for extra rods that hold spinning or casting rods tight to the hull. These will not work for fly rods as fly rod pieces are too numerous and slender. I will lose my rod if I tip the boat and relinquish my grip on the handle.

So be it.

Your pedal drive and paddle are the only means of locomotion for the boat. I leash both to the Hobie rail, as the paddle is the backup to the pedal drive and I need at least one to make it back to shore.

My landing net is leashed to the hull in similar fashion and has more than one use in the boat. As it’s likely to be in your other hand when landing a big fish, and that fish could make me forget prudence, it will be lost if I roll the boat with the rod in the other hand. Hence the leash.

I reserve the hull storage for the expensive stuff. Lures and Plugs for largemouth when casting or spin fishing, first aid kit to stop bleeding and bandage the hook punctures, waterproof container with wallet and car keys, and all those tiny packages of split shot, strike indicators, fly boxes, GoPro batteries, leader spools, and hook hones. (I will elaborate on this configuration in future articles tuned to my specific craft.)

Your rod is the only wild card in this mix, as a leash is unwieldy due to the casting motion. I opt not to leash my rod and recognize the potential for its loss.

If you wish to keep it, it must be attached to the boat.

There is no exception.

No FIshing Vests needed

Sudden immersion is a shock, and while you recover and begin to tread water – are you going to reach for the boat or your rod as it disappears into the water?

If you’re not leashed to the boat and there’s a stiff breeze your kayak will be moving to windward as soon as you hit the water. By the time you resurface it might be eight or ten feet distant, and if you’re in deep water you might be in trouble.

To hell with the rod, you go for the boat as it may be the only thing between you and drowning.

You must wear a Personal Floatation Device (PFD) in your kayak as the risk of flipping climbs with the popularity of the waterway, inclement weather, big tides, and drunken boaters. Choose a vest that is designed for swimming, not one designed for the crowd that frequents big party barges and hang on the cabin wall unused. California boating regulations require all kayakers to wear a PFD equipped with a whistle for alerting other boaters. As the PFD will preclude the use of a fishing vest, you will need to design a new tackle storage solution that allows the same freedom of access as a vest, yet will be leashed to the boat (with all zippers closed) when not in use. (I will describe my system in a future article on Hobie configuration).

Your PFD can have floatation around your shoulders but make sure it doesn’t have any in the lower back area. Any padding near the lower back and waist will interfere with your boat seat and your posture, making the seat less comfortable.

I opted for a Stohlquist Fisherman, as it had a few extra pockets, no padding on the lower back, and is of the “swimming” style. These can be pricey, but being a life saving device is worth every penny.

If you use the boat in salt water many anglers stuff the kayak with pool noodles to allow additional buoyancy. The assumption is that the closed cell foam will ensure the kayak floats if upside down or full of water, giving you something to cling to while you BLEAT frantically on your attached whistle ..

Polypropylene is your friend. Poly won’t absorb water, so clothing that is windproof, rain resistant, and made from Polypropylene will provide additional safety. Big woolen sweaters, Levi jeans, and layered cotton shirts are all barriers for wind and cold, but they will absorb many pounds of extra water when immersed in the lake. If you flip your boat you will have to get back in it unassisted. If you are away from shore you will need to climb in via the nose or stern, or learn to belly up into the cockpit and pivot into the pedal well. If you have an extra fifty pounds of water in that sweater/jean/shirt/jacket combination it will reduce your ability to lift yourself out of the water and back into the boat.

Buy windproof clothing in bright colors (visibility matters) that doesn’t absorb water. Wear wetsuits in the salt (especially on the West Coast) and leave shoes in the car. Wet suit booties offer both floatation and will not absorb water when soaked and are much superior to shoes or sneakers. Most of your launches will be in muddy terrain and wet shoes and socks put a damper on the day no matter how pleasant the weather and fishing.

You’re more mobile than the fellow with the V8, respect the launch and dock protocols

Gas guzzling V8 owners replete with their spiffy Dodge RAM and attendant entourage actually need the dock to launch – you can shove your boat in the water with less fuss. If you are launching your kayak at a traditional lake launch frequented by big boats on trailers, prepare your boat at your truck and avoid using the dock for anything but the launch.

The standard wheeled cart assembly allows you to load your boat with tackle, clothing and food while at your truck. You can string your rod and place it into the kayak at the same time. Only when you are ready to launch should you move into the path of the dock and motorized launch area. Be polite, courteous and fast. If you are carrying your wheel assembly back to the car then keep your boat to the side with the least traffic, and only do so if the distance is short. These launches are designed for the motorized angler and their ritual requires additional maneuver compared to us kayak types.

Anyone learning to back a boat in the water requires considerable space, so give it to them regardless … never insist on imposing your will on a craft whose wake can swamp you.

This advice is doubly important at the end of the day when the crowd at the dock is liquored up and sunburnt. Don’t risk aggression by dawdling at the launch area with your boat, get it out of the water and into the safety of the parking area before wiping it down or storing gear.

Summary:

The move from wading angler to kayak angler requires money and a lot of thought to established fishing practices. Many of the tendencies developed from years of angling need to be retooled and rethought rather than simply ported to the new craft. Everything you bring onto your boat is a liability and subject to loss, so you need to plan your storage and leash system – and you will require several seasons before the configuration you chose will become second nature, so plan for an evolution of your boating behavior. Closing tackle boxes and zipping up your fly box will be cumbersome and inefficient at first, but losing the entire collection to the lake is far worse – and may even end your trip completely.

Expect to evolve your kayak use, don’t assume it will all go swimmingly despite hours of YouTube review and classes attended.

Keep weight and items to a minimum, especially if you’re in a drought area.

Assume a new or strange lake might have a poor launch facility, one that requires portage of boat and equipment to the water. Try to keep it to a single trip from car to water, if you can’t then prioritize your valuables based on the risks.

Anything not tied to the boat will be lost, that includes you.

Dress for success, avoid items that absorb and retain lots of water.

If forced to comingle with power boats, use the dock sparingly and fast. Do not rig tackle or dawdle. Save the fish stories for the parking area, not the boat dock.

I managed to seduce a few of the unwary

It’s an excuse to fiddle mostly … the discovery of something new that you’ve never tried stimulates both optimism and creativity. The normal guardrails that exist when being shown something vanish when it’s a chance encounter; something read, something seen, or something accidentally observed.

This week I was fiddling with “balanced leeches”, and after viewing several videos, numerous fly patterns and articles describing the style and theory behind the practice – it sounded like great fun. A large Bobber-cator suspends a leech pattern in the water – with beads tied forward of the eye to “balance” the fly in a horizontal attitude, versus hanging from the indicator perpendicularly.

In theory, the wave and wind action would then make the fly dance fetchingly on the end of its tether, compelling even the most wary fish to scarf it down.

While it was fun staring at the strike indicator waiting for it to disappear, the theory and the practice proved much different. I hooked and landed three fish but each ate the leech after I moved the indicator with a short strip. I tried diligently but the wave action induced dance failed to yield a fish strike – but mitigating circumstances might have altered the result.

I was fishing the deep end of the lake – which is less conducive to flies fished close to the surface. I opted to fish the fly about 3.5 feet from the indicator to give it some sinking ability – but I was attending a local club’s Berryessa outing and launched where the club intended, versus launching where shoreline and depth aided this style. While the club promptly roared away towards parts unseen (likely shallower), I was left in the “knife cut” portion of the lake where the canyon near the dam makes the depth drop away abruptly.

I moved out of the creek arm and into the open portion of the lake where waves and gusty wind made the action on the fly much more vigorous. I focused on the points and drop-offs that were visible close to shore and managed a few grabs as well as a brace of spotted bass.

Water temperature was about 62 degrees, which is on the chill side but not excessively so, and might have made fish less willing to chase or swim up from the depths below.

I encountered a few fish chasing minnows in an after bay and managed to land one of them. These fish had proven (in earlier trips) difficult to catch as they move about with great speed chasing the bait swarm. With the balanced leech technique you can leave the fly stationary until the feeding fish return to where it was cast, then give it a twitch to induce a take.

In simple sight testing the fly, observing wave action on the suspended bait, the sparser dressed flies were much more animated and “swam” better. Large clumps of marabou do not respond to the gentle motion of wave and wind and tend to simply “bob” up and down. Traditional leech flies, with the wing (tail) tied sparsely – swam quite nicely when the indicator was disturbed.

I used enough marabou to give good silhouette but not enough to make the fly opaque. The overall flue length was chosen to position the hook in the center of the fly, offering ample movement of the tail and palmered hackle, but not so long as to induce the short strike, where the fish misses the hook entirely. The double bead offers a chance for a “rattle” when yanked – and is something I am fiddling with to add sound to my bass flies.

As the weather warms I’ll move to the shallower sections of the lake to fish over the emergent weed beds. Numerous weed “shoals” exist on the east side of the lake that harbor a lot of fish during summer months. I’m thinking this method will give me the opportunity to fish within the clumps – as well as suspend a fly above the weeds indefinitely .. offering a couple options I’ve not had before.

I did manage to bend a few of the dressmaker pins used to support the beads. They will deform on the occasional snag – as well as yanked through wooden snags or similar underwater obstacles. I simply bent the pins back into their original shape with finger pressure. I could see some flies having more issue with pin deformity – but only if fly components were attached directly to the pin instead of the shank. As my flies were simplistic in design, akin to Wooly Bugger flies, I had no issue with the pins and fly construction.

My war against the 25 pack continues

I held my nose while ordering a 25 pack of “balance leech pins”. I needed a sample of the genuine to confirm what these really were – and from which industry they came. Possession of a 25 pack of anything from a tackle store typically requires me to blush profusely and commit the obligatory toe scuff to distract onlookers.

I hate 25 packs of anything, unless it’s Twinkies.

In fly fishing, the twenty five pack is just enough material to fiddle with and then run out when you discover some unknown yet useful quality.It’s enough to give your fishing buddy a handful, then find you only have three for yourself.

Today’s case it was enough to identify that “balanced leech pins” at $2.95 for 25, are simply dress maker’s pins – available at any fabric store for $6.95 for 750 of them. This wasn’t earth shattering as many fly tiers have guessed similarly, but as I noted the pattern recipe called for fly tying beads to balance the fly, and beads being another exorbitant 25 pack item, I thought I’d mention that standard metal beads will work better than the fly tying version – and are much cheaper.

Dressmaker pins are used as they have a flattened head which prevents our bead from slipping off the end of the pin.

DressMaker500

Solid copper, steel, or brass beads are available from Etsy, eBay, or Rings & Things and most hobby stores that cater to jewelry making. They work on barbless fly hooks with model perfect bends as they are not slotted to accommodate barb or sproat-style bends, but are sold for about $4 per hundred, versus $4.5 per 25 at the fly shop.

“Balance Leeching” is tying the fly on a 60 degree jig hook and including a bead on a dress maker’s pin to hold the fly level when suspended from a strike indicator. I had an idea this would work well on shallow weed flats for bass, and was intent on tying a couple dozen to try with minnow imitations as well as leechs.

balance_minnow600

Any chance I have to thwart the sale of a 25 pack of anything is worthy of the effort.I used some “diamond cut” 4mm iron beads to act as the balance element and tied others with dual beads so they would bang against one another (rattle) during the retrieve. Weeds are not yet available in the local lakes but they’ll show once the warm weather starts in earnest.

In Spring a Young Man’s thoughts turn to Cloudy Water

Spring is synonymous with the “Great Flush” wherein increased water levels caused by rain and snowmelt sends leaves, branches, empty water bottles, discarded Pandemic masks, and everything not nailed down – into whatever body of water is downstream.

I always seem to run into dirty water regardless of where I’m fishing and am always fiddling with flies attempting to find a solution to their visual appeal being obscured by debris and dirt.

The drought has complicated matters as well. As the water in lakes are drawn down it exposes loose dirt with little vegetation to hold it in place. Wave action caused by wind will stir that mix into a coffee colored slick that will extend it’s plume into the lake from the windward side of every point.

Wind and shallow water are common to both freshwater lakes and the California Delta. Vegetation tends to cleanse dirty water but a drought, coupled with the time of year, weeds are not available. Much of the underwater vegetation dies back during the Fall and Winter months, and the spring flush often empties into lakes whose weeds have not yet started their new cycle. The California Delta has less water level fluctuation and much more resident vegetation but is prone to wind which stirs the water in the shallows – disturbing bottom debris and sediment which quickly discolors water in the surrounding flats.

As fly fishing lacks many of the sensory elements of other types of fishing, like scent or sound, we are at a disadvantage when water conditions are less than ideal. Watching those Pro Bass shows often tempts me into using “Scent of a Thousand Nightcrawlers,” but I’ve resisted thus far only because the oily mess is likely to mat all materials and render flies lifeless and stiff.

Sound is a viable option on flies, but their method of attachment is a bit problematic. Many kinds of rattles exist for the bass jig market and might be adapted to flies with a bit of ingenuity.

The volume of rattle equipped baits on the lure and plug market suggests both lure manufacturers and anglers believe it attractive to predatory fish. As I’ve not read all the science (yet), I’ll assume the mob is onto something and all those rattle equipped lures are something more than a means to separate a fool and his money … and sound is an attribute to a fly in discolored water.

While not expert on sounds emitted by baitfish – it’s likely digestive noises and excess air are present in the innards of anything that isn’t a plant. Water transmits sound readily but I’m unsure whether “bad” noises exist and whether gastric noises or baitfish flatulence is attractive to predators. The act of swimming, either leisurely or frantically, is likely to add vibration (sound) into the water as well. The receptor on a predacious fish is likely its lateral line – as sound is likely transmitted through water as a vibration.

The bigger question is, which sounds and what pitch are triggers for large fish? Big sound, loud or soft, continuous sound or discrete notes?

I’d guess that the species and feeding behavior of the predator adds a unique mix of triggers, and Sailfish may respond to bigger sounds that would send a trout fleeing in terror. Schooling bait likely “sounds” different than a solitary minnow, so part of the mix will vary with the fish sought or imitated by the rattle equipped fly.

rattle700

Rattles exist in a number of options, most are for jigs and bait casting gear. Three basic styles are the dual harness type (XTech), the “Pepper Jig” type – whose rattles fit into a rubber harness akin to a set of Mickey Mouse ears (rattles in the box), and the fly tying rattle (Eye Glass Rattle) – which are shaped like a traditional “barbell” eye, and attached in the same way.

All of these are “dogs with fleas” for the adventurous fly tier. Both the dual harness and the Pepper Jig rattles rely on a rubber element that can be lashed onto a hook with ease. Unfortunately, rubber will oxidize and you might lose the rattle after a season or two. The basic cylinder of the “Pepper” shaped rattle is problematic and bulbous, so securing it to the shank without using the harness is an issue, both in secure attachment and in its interference in tying the actual fly itself.

The “barbell” style rattle eyes have little or no sound as the beads are so tiny, so if it’s the noise you’re after, the fly tying version are essentially worthless. As I am unsure which sounds are most desirable to Striped Bass and Largemouth/Smallmouth, and sound is the solution to combat discolored water, I choose to use the larger beads and noisiest rattles ; the double barbell and/or Pepper Jig flavor.

The physics of rattles has to be considered as well. Rattles create sound as one or more “BB’s” hit either end of a air filled chamber. Air is buoyant so the larger rattles (containing bigger beads and more trapped air) can alter the buoyancy of the completed fly. Using a double rattle will exacerbate the issue, so it’s prudent to drop your flies in a glass of water to determine whether you’ve affected the rake or pitch of the fly in the water.

I chose to use a single rattle from the dual harness. I trim the harness at the center bulb and tie the stem portion onto the hook shank in the tail position. this allows the bucktail or marabou to flow around the rattle body and hide it within the fly.

It’s worthy to note that both the dual harness and “Pepper Jig” variants can be threaded onto the fly by simply forcing the hole in the center harness over the fly head or onto the leader itself. This offers the ability to add and remove rattles to your existing flies but relies on the elasticity of the plastic to remain securely attached. It’s plain the maker would have chosen a plastic that resists oxidation, as jigs are subject to sunlight as well as flies, but the force of casting the fly coupled with stretching the rubber ring over the hook eye will likely cause it to fail sooner than its traditional use.

645rattleBluegill

On the above “Little Bluegill” you can see the single barrel of the rattle tied in at the tail position. I have spread open the marabou to show the rattle, and when fished the rattle is not visible nor does it seem to affect the fly action. Any buoyancy issues will be overpowered by the lead eyes up front.

Mounting the rattle at the tail keeps it from obstructing the gape of the hook. Threading rattles onto the leader or eye means the barrels have the ability to dangle below the fly and may cause some issues with hook setting on smaller hooks. I trimmed the tether short to keep the barrel up tight to the shank of the hook rather than allowing it to sag to one side or the other.

Marabou striper flies fully loaded with water are already heavy things to hurl, so I didn’t notice issues with the increased weight. A fully loaded 2/0 is about as aerodynamic as a small school bus, so wear protective gear regardless.

8lbStriper700

I fished Sherman Island just after two days of blustery wind last week and managed to score a single eight pound striper. The water was noticeably dirty from all the wind activity and while I cannot say it was the rattle that seduced the slimy SOB, I’d like to think I outwitted him on his own turf ..

More testing is required to prove anything however. I am scouring the Internet to see if there is any scientific work on the subject, that can translated from Latin into English, as I am interested on how pitch and tone might attract or repel – and whether I can manufacture something suitable to confirm any theories on this subject.

In the meantime, enjoy fiddling with these options most are available from any shops catering to lure and jig making.

I plan on using the same flies for Largemouth to see if they aid in catching fish on the muddy plumes of water that come off the points in the afternoon. Wind traditionally makes an appearance in early afternoon, and my wandering about on the bank has revealed that schools of Threadfin Shad use these plumes as cover from predators, foraging with relative impunity .. Dragging my fly out of such a plume might trigger something to dine, and I do so love to share my flies with things smaller than me…

I consider it a draw

The Striped Bass population has been elusive the last couple of years with occasional flurries of fish and much head scratching afterwards. Most of the fish caught have been small, predominantly under the legal limit, and even those are quick to vanish at the slightest opportunity.

Given the time of year and the paucity of other species available, they are a welcome quarry and an excuse to wander around the Delta hoping to be the lucky fellow whose perseverance discovers where the sumbitches are hiding …

My latest foray was inconclusive. I managed to sting one fish using an experimental “Baby Bluegill” fly versus the more gaily colored monstrosities in white, red, or chartreuse (or all the above). The more somber patterns are often overlooked and therefore underfished – and not caring whether it was eaten by the resident Largemouth, I was fiddling with “natural” baits instead of the normal fare.

BabyBass

I fished the last two hours of incoming, stuck the solitary fish – which came off promptly, and then lingered to fish the following four hours of the outgoing tide. When the wind came up I swapped the fly rod for a spinning rod and stuck three additional fish, two undersized and one keeper-sized.

BloodyThumb700

As I was freeing the larger fish from the net an awkward flop imbedded the free treble into my thumb. Normally I would have taken this personal, but under the circumstances I thought it fair. I stuck him and took his measure – and he repaid me in like coin. Rather than howl shamefully, I removed his treble, my treble, and the net, before releasing him with a wave (and the corresponding blood spatter)..

I considered it a draw.

Me and the Colonial Pipeline, which hostile Nation State did I offend?

dogecoin Actually, I’m flattered … First the Colonial Pipeline was hacked and disrupted the entire East Coast’s supply of gas and aviation fuel, then Singlebarbed was hacked and disrupted the flow of poorly punctuated angling fantasy to both coasts.

Flattered … because I had not realized that we had become “Critical Infrastructure”, I still assumed our questionable wit and halting prose was worth less than nothing, but I was dead wrong. Obviously some hostile nation state assumed we were in line for a big chunk of Biden’s Infrastructure funding and attempted to convert their larceny into Billions in DogeCoin..

We’re back, a little worse for the wear, and as poorly punctuated as ever.

Berryessa Redux

Conditions: Air temperature 55 degrees in the AM, 77 degrees in the afternoon. Light northerly breeze, 5-10 mph. Water temperature measured at Oaks Shores of 62 degrees (AM), measured at Big Island 64 degrees (PM).

I retraced my earlier Berryessa outing and noted the last couple of weeks of warm weather is reflected in the water temperature. In the last two weeks, surface temperatures are up three degrees, and the lake has dropped an additional five feet, consistent with tomato production.

Yep, all that Ketchup has to come from somewhere …

The last couple of weeks the valley has been planting in earnest. Bell Peppers, Tomatoes, and new Almond orchards are materializing as fast as the tractors can plant them, and the canals brim full of water necessary to get plantings to take root, so water use is up.

The talk in the parking lot are how fewer Kokanee are biting and the casual trolling anglers are starting to thin as well. Less lake volume and warmer weather and we’ve got the recipe for the Kokanee to head deep and the bass to come shallow, and yours truly gleefully stomping the daylights out of anything fool enough to eat an artificial.

Three degrees meant the Smallmouth bite is akin to Indian Valley. “Smallies” were in the shallows and giving chase, with nary a Largemouth to be seen. The same flies were dominant, and only the terrain mattered – as Smallmouth tend to prefer rocky areas and are largely absent on the muddy or sandy parts of the lake.

No Catfish this time, but I did manage to land a big “Chunk” of a Crappie. These are always welcome given they’re a scrappy fighter with a soft mouth, and also great table fare if you get into a school of them.

The Gray Wooly Bugger is quickly becoming the “go to” pattern for all of these lakes – and it’s not terribly surprising given how the predominant food source is Threadfin Shad. I am casting downwind to increase distance, waiting a bit (to unravel tangled running line) and then stripping the fly back in pulls ranging from six inches to a foot. I have 20 turns of two amp fuse wire on the fly with a 4mm bead, and the combination gives it an aggressive sink rate … likely about six inches per second.

My leader is also assisting a bit, as it is designed for these heavy flies. I have a short butt section (about 40”) comprised of equal segments of 50, 40, and 30lb monofilament. I tie a Surgeon’s Knot at the end of the 30 lb to make a loop to attach the tippet. I use about five foot of 15lb fluorocarbon (Seaguar –I am testing it this season), to aid the sinking fly. The long tippet allows the fly to sink very quickly as it is thinner and offers less resistance to the fly pulling it under. This is similar to many of the leaders I make, and takes its inspiration from the Golden Gate Angling & Casting Club’s tournament leaders used in ACA events.

The combination is allowing me to consistently get five or six feet into the water column with a floating line – an important option considering the top water bite is synonymous with Spring Spawn and the ensuing festivities. Flopping between the deep and the surface is a lot easier when limited to fly change only – versus spool swap or second rod.

Ling Cod Meets Largemouth

The earlier Indian Valley expedition got my creative juices flowing. Knowing how fly fishermen view big water with suspicion – and meeting no like minded anglers in my lake and estuary travels, has lent an element of sadism to my determination to make big water fly friendly.

Big water is winning … if you’re keeping score …

With physics stacked against us large water tends to be the Achilles Heel of fly fishing. Strong winds, deep water, and no visual cues on predator or prey, and no visibility of bottom structure and environmentals, all put the fly guy at a disadvantage.

On creeks we can sample the bugs, can watch the fish, and neither winds nor water depth are insurmountable. Big open water is much less forgiving as our lines can’t sink fast enough, nor deep enough, to make fishing deep efficient. The bigger the water the stronger the wind, which makes painless fly fishing only possible down wind, and even then we need to ensure the line and fly is outboard of us – instead of on a collision course with our spleen.

With the kayak I can now carry more than fly gear, and am always equipped with a spinning or casting rod and related sundries to keep fishing in the most hostile conditions.

The issue is success (or failure) with lures doesn’t translate to flies, and what I learn with one type of tackle isn’t always exploitable when the wind dies, or I move into shallow water. Fish eating a Purple Worm might mean a Purple fly is the hot ticket, but I’m not carrying any of those at the moment, they’re in my steelhead box at home.

Fast forward to this morning as I’m reading about Ling Cod fishing in Pacifica and I realize that I can transport the same solution to freshwater fishing, and at least home in on what flies the fish like …

We’ve all admired the brightly colored “Shrimp” fly rigs used for Rockfish and Ling Cod. A heavy weight coupled with two or three synthetic flies to jig off the bottom …

RockfishShrimp500

… I can use two of my regular flies in a “drop shot” configuration, that would give me the same capability to fish off the bottom in deep lakes. This would allow me to try two different flies at once to see which they like better – and I can change them out at will with a simple “loop to hook eye” knot.

DropShot500

Early Spring always features a warming lake with recalcitrant fish hanging in the deep water until temperatures rise to optimum. Spring fishing can be hit or miss due to “too early” – and this would allow me to confirm the fish are still deep AND what fly color they liked best (although depth does alter color perception).

I’m sure the Purist’s are aghast at the potential marriage of fly and salt, but our collective definition of “fly fishing” requires the device to be hurled by a fly rod to be considered really fly fishing … “Hurled” is apropos as jig-headed flies and beaded monstrosities cannot be cast … ever.

I could still claim, “I caught them on flies” … if I wanted to be perverse …

It’s something. It’s also better than the “Purple Worm, ain’t got no Purple flies” Conundrum. Can’t wait to try this out on the next trip.

Indian Valley Reservoir Scout

Conditions: Morning temperatures about 61 degrees, afternoon about 80 degrees. Gusty mid morning winds to about 20 mph, dying in early afternoon to a steady breeze. Water temperature measured at 58 – 60 degrees.

I figured all my recent scouting and fishing “hard knocks” would eventually put me in the proper water at the right time, as it’s the nature of taking so many cuts at the ball – eventually you have to connect.

Today was Indian Valley Reservoir, which is off of HWY 20 near Clear Lake, CA. To get to the lake requires tracing the ridgeline on a 12 mile long, spine jarring and dusty, dirt road, replete with all the divots and pot holes that come from a lot of off road traffic and the hellions that practice that fine art.

Indian Valley is a BLM management area and frequently hosts off-road clubs and the California Militia, which is mix of Off-road Crazies, Trump supporters, and leavened with Proud Boys and castoff Fox News anchors, and it’s not uncommon to encounter well armed Turkey hunters on the way in – and better armed camo-clad militia on the way out.

It’s safe to assume you’re outgunned … so wave cheerily and try to minimize the rocks and dirt you spatter them with – as you blow past.

The lake proper has a small campground (without water) next to the dam, a long concrete ramp used to launch boats, and is operated by the Yolo County Water District, which is very tight-lipped about information on the locked gate and whether the lake is open or closed. The Bureau of Land Management operates the surrounding terrain, and may be the better source for early and late season access status.

I got to the lake around 9AM and was the only person at the campground. No boat inspection despite the numerous placards mentioning fines. Lake County requires Quagga inspection stickers on all boats (you must have one for the current month), but kayaks are exempt from this requirement. There is a $6 day use fee ($15 for overnight camping) that is collected via honor system.

With the lake like glass I started on the West side of the dam and fished through all the sunken timber enroute to the North end of the lake, some miles distant. In normal years the lake is about six miles long, but this year it’s only about two-thirds full, so is closer to four miles in length.

Indian Valley is full of timber and underwater stumps, and the lake has a posted speed limit of 10mph for all boat traffic due to the danger of disemboweling your craft. All that wood makes for a marvelous fishing environment, when you’re not snagging up, as there’s nothing like fishing at something – versus blind casting hoping for something to swim by.

I found the Smallmouth Bass first. They were overly protective of the rocky points entering the lake and dragging a #4 Grey Wooly Bugger over the shallow hump would often bring something from the deeper water to the sides.

I landed about a half dozen fish while wandering about the West bank, and got thumped by something that felt bigger ..

Indian Valley Catfish, my first on the fly

… which wound up being a good sized Catfish, my first on a fly rod. I had seen numerous Catfish caught on flies in magazines, but this was the first I had caught on my own. It was a great fight and a worthy adversary. The thought of fish dinner entered my mind – as Catfish are wonderful table fare, but I opted to release him instead.

Indian Valley Reservoir is plagued by wind that materializes about 11AM and lasts through till the afternoon. You anticipate this gusty period, as the initial burst is quite blustery, but typically will die back in early afternoon. I always bring conventional tackle to fish during the worst of the wind, as fly rods are ineffective and dangerous when gusts start ripping down the valley.

Emboldened by early success I pedaled over to the East side of the lake just in time to greet the blustery Northern wind that pushed me back South towards the dam. Waves appeared almost immediately and made for a few anxious moments as I adjusted for the return crossing with waves hitting broadside to the boat. Angling kayaks are a little less seaworthy than their sunken cockpit cousins, so I took a 45 degree course to give me a “following sea” and less of a tipping issue with the waves hitting me obliquely versus broadside.

Returning to the West side I shelved the fly rod and beached the kayak to make it easier to fish in high wind. I tried a mix of Spinnerbaits, top water plugs, jigs, and finally settled on tossing a 6” Green Pumpkin Senko (#318 Green Pumpkin with large Red flake) into the deeper water.

With the change in tackle (and depth), the Largemouth appeared – and couldn’t leave the Senko alone. I landed a couple dozen fish (and an even larger Catfish!) during the worst of the windy period all on the big rubber worm.

It’s a lesson I’ve learned many times over. Scouting large bodies of water requires numerous tackle types to get a firm read on quarry and conditions. Fly fishing has glaring weaknesses – casting distance and fishing at depth being the most obvious, and being able to fish through a blustery three hours with conventional gear made quite the difference in understanding where the fish were holding – and what they thought tasty.

In short, had a great trip – caught quite a few fish – and of the four lakes scouted this week, found Indian Valley bite to be “earlier” than the others, something I will log and confirm in coming years.

Indian Valley is all rock and shale covered with a leavening of goopy algae. I saw no evidence of spawning fish, no beds of any kind, no Crappie, Kokanee, or Carp, and no humans nor trash (even in the campground).

Some observations and cautions: The road to the lake does not need four wheel drive, despite the many potholes, and there is no cell phone coverage, so if you get stuck you’re on your own. Remember if you launch a boat you’ll need to get Quagga inspected (Lake County requires MONTHLY inspections) and go slow on the water as the sunken timber is quite thick in the coves and edges of the lake.

This is heavy Rattlesnake country, so if you camp or bring little people, you need to keep an eye out for visitors. There is little water in the area other than the lake – so anything resident to the area must move to the water which may mean unsolicited visitations or encounters in the brush surrounding … there are tons of snakes in the area.