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Petitjean Bobbin follow-on post

After surveying much of the candidate field, my instincts suggest that the Petitjean bobbin is the only bobbin offering capabilities and functionality that have never fit within a bobbin’s pervue. As such, its unfamiliararity and unique foibles require a deeper look at the bobbin, to assess whether its promise is realized already or it’s a prototype of something that can only be realized later with additional refinement.

Let’s Get Price Out of the Way

The 800 pound gorilla in bobbin assessment is price. There are plenty of inexpensive “house” bobbins offered by vendors that cost less than five dollars and are copies of copies of the Matarelli bobbin. These bobbins work flawlessly, and as such, should be the default option for most tiers interested in problem free functionality at reasonable cost.

Beginning tiers should not look at anything but “tried and true” until their skills surpass their starter gear. Ditto for the commercial tier, who is focused on speed and wants his tying gear to function flawlessly without his having to fiddle with foibles or shortcomings.

Seventy-five dollars for a bobbin is excessive. Regardless of the alloy used, the engineering marvels it contains, and factoring in its innate ability to ward off vampires and disable hungry zombies, it’s hard under any circumstances to justify this kind of cost.

If cost is king, you don’t want this bobbin.

What capabilities would be worth a $75 bobbin?

I found myself asking this very question many times over. I had come to the conclusion that the only way to justify the hideous expense would be in counting the tools no longer needed, or counting the minutes saved due to the tool’s assistance.

In looking at my tying bench and the costs of the many tools present, the only options that come to mind are vise, scissors and hair stacker. If my bobbin could replace any of those tools it would likely pay for itself.

Unfortunately, these options aren’t in any of the bobbins sold, so any real feature increase in a bobbin is likely to be minor, replacing only the inexpensive tools like threader cleaners, dubbed loop tools, and their ilk.

Hence, the Petitjean Bobbin.

All the things I found out since the last article on the topic

As I dug deeper into the bobbin’s use I had to create new tests to determine where the foibles existed, and whether some of my initial premises were correct.

Grip Does Not Matter

How I gripped the bobbin and which side I rested my thumb on was the first issue I found my comments to be incorrect.

I find holding the bobbin with my thumb on the tensioner keeps the thread contained within the wire guide. If I was left-handed, or wrapped the bobbin counterclockwise, my instinct now is that I would hold the bobbin 180 degrees differently.

It doesn’t matter which side of the bobbin is towards you – or whether your thumb is positioned in a certain way, holding either side of the bobbin works equally well. I tested this premise by gripping the bobbin randomly while it spun under the vise jaws. I found no additional issues with the thread coming out of the tip guide regardless of my hand position.

So how was the thread coming loose?

It was the advancement of the thread up or down the shank, and the speed with which I did so that cause the thread to come out of the tip guide. When I advanced the thread quickly down the shank the bobbin tip would be ahead of the thread, sometimes at an really small angle, it would scrub the rim and find the small aparture of the tip and come out. If I wrapped more methodically down the shank (instead of going from eye to bend in three turns) the bobbin acted normally no matter how I held it. It’s a mix of speed and angle that can cause the thread to come out.

The Plane of the bobbin may influence this behavior

If the bobbin is held parallel to the hook shank and the thread is advanced down the shank quickly, the thread may find the aperture of the tip guide and come out. If the plane of the bobbin changes the same law applies, but it may not be as obvious. The point is to ensure the angle of thread (between point of attachment on the shank and tip of the bobbin) is not too small, implying the tip of your bobbin is far in front of the point of attachment, where you took your last wrap. Remember the thread “scrubs” its way around the tip of the bobbin as the bobbin rotates around your hook shank, too acute an angle and the thread finds the opening and is released.

I tied several dozen parachute flies to test the bobbin’s attitude in relation to the tying area. In the first test the bobbin was held with the tip down and parallel to the parachute wing, wraps were applied to the wing post. In the second test, the bobbin was held with the tip pointing toward the parachute wing, and the bobbin was wrapped around the wing. Both tests were successful, and the thread did not come out of the guide.

It appears that only the acute angle issue, coupled with speed, causes the thread to find the aperture, instead of the attitude of the bobbin in relation to the work surface. The plane of the bobbin can influence the behavior, but the cause appears to be the same … acuteness of angle in the new plane combined with a meat headed fly tier intent on completing the fly quickly.

By now I’d tied about six dozen flies with the bobbin and most of the issues were moot. I’ve not used the thread tensioner while tying the trout flies as setting the tensioner once is all that’s necessary for similar sized flies using the same thread. Replacing the thread and changing the hook size to saltwater had me change the thread tension, but again only once.

Summary: This is a bobbin that functions well in the hands of an experienced tier. It is not without flaw, as the thread can pop out of the tip guide when you get forgetful and move the thread either up or down the shank quickly.

The dubbed loop tool is useful when tying nymphs, less so when tying dry flies, and I tied more dubbed loop flies than normal as it was so convenient to do so with this bobbin. The thread tension function tends to be “set it and forget it” if tying similar sized flies with the same size thread. This tension adjustment was the best I’ve tried so far – not a complete brake on the spool, but noticably increasing the tension.

The cost makes this a luxury item. This is not for the average tier who will eventually own a dozen of these bobbins. While the Matarelli bobbins copies are plentiful and cheap, most tiers will choose to own a dozen of them instead.

Rating: 3 Stars. The cost of the bobbin is prohibitive, and the thread can come out occasionally even when you’re used to the bobbin, New Functionality: 4 Stars. Good thread adjustment, dubbing loop tool works well, once you’re used to it.

In this day and age of the $700 fly tying vise, and the $1000 fly rod, the $75 dollar bobbin is in lockstep with what we’ve done to the sport. I can’t say I agree with where we’re heading, but I’m not surprised at any of this.

Personal Note: I really like the bobbin, but it does not justify my owning a dozen of them. This bobbin appears to be the only real advancement of the bobbin as a fly tying tool, but it’s cost is staggering in light of what you get. I can’t think of a capability that when added to a bobbin would make it worth a hundred bucks, but I have to applaud Mssr. Petitjean for his efforts and his vision.

Part 1 of 2: Bobbin Reviews: Lots of Options, Plenty of Price Points, and a Glimpse of the Future

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I’m thinking of adding to my supply of long tube bobbins and realize that in the decades since the Matarelli era, dozens of vendors have moved into this space and replacement candidates abound. Many are simply low cost copies of copies, but there are numerous high dollar bobbins boasting of functionality beyond thread management.

What’s a curious fellow to do? ,,,

I found a few reviews of bobbins, but remain skeptical of the traditional angling press and magazines. Most reviews simply anoint the items as “dipped in Awesomeness” – whose author is more interested in not offending his supplier of freebies, than ensuring the rest of us get an honest appraisal. Few write about features or shortcomings, and none list any form of testing or criteria used. Like the Stock Market, fly fishing culture never lists a security as “sell” … only weaker shades of “buy.”

My quest started as a search for a good “long tube” bobbin, as they seem to be the most comfortable for me to use. They keep my fingers away from the work area and provide an unobstructed view of the works surface destined to recieve my next material or wrap. Wading through the long list of new candidates offered on web sites suggested that actual details of bobbins are rare. Trying to figure out which were “longer” than others was near impossible, given how little details were available.

First, most of the bobbins fail to mention how long they are … so you can’t tell if you’re looking at a “long tube” bobbin or a “standard” length. As standard lengths vary from vendor to vendor, the average fly fishing retailer does an abysmal job of getting information to their online users, relying on a picture and text supplied by the manufacturer, which simple restates, “trust me it’s awesome.” Most bobbin listings have no length described whatsoever, and others list the barrel length, but not the overall length, and as there is no “standard” other than the original Matarelli sizes, confusion runs rampant.

Example 1: $20 Bobbin. Loon Ergonomic Bobbin :An ergonomic and high-performing update to the indispensable tying tool. The powder coated ergonomic handle rests perfectly between the thumb and fingers, while the spring steel spool holder allows for easy adjustment in tension by changing the pressure applied by the feet. The tube is made of double radius polished tungsten – better than ceramic! It’s also designed with versatility in mind: the high gauge works well when tying small flies, and the tube is long enough to tackle large patterns as well. This bobbin will not work with a standard bobbin threader it need the extra long bobbin threader from Loon. [No information of bobbin or barrel length.]

Example 2: $114 Bobbin. TMC Magnetic Adjustable Bobbin: This precision-made bobbin has it all, including a fully adjustable ceramic tube and a unique magnetic tensioning device with a low startup inertia which puts an end to breaking even the finest thread. The length of the super-durable, friction-free ceramic thread tube is adjustable for different size and style flies and the versatile bobbin adapts to different width thread spools, helping to make the tying process smooth and effortless. It’s even got a built-in keeper for the tag end of your thread to keep it from falling back through the tube during storage. [No information of bobbin or barrel length]

Example 3: $37-$49 Bobbin. Tiemco Ceramic Bobbin. The durable TMC flanged bobbin tube is polished to perfection, which eliminates all friction, and simplifies tying and threading. [No information of bobbin or barrel length]

Example 4: $35 Bobbin. FlyRite Ceramic Bobbin. Standard size ceramic bobbin with tension control, allowing to adjust for different diameters and strengths of thread. [No information of bobbin or barrel length]

Example 5: $75 Bobbin, The SMHAEN bobbin is a super functional, micro adjustable-tension fly tying tool featuring a unique design and highest quality workmanship. Its tension system allows you to adjust tension with only one finger, while still working on your fly. Thanks to the perfectly designed ergonomic frame shape, you don’t even feel the internal tension system in your hand. A funnel at lower end of tube allows easy threading. The ceramic tube and the well balanced bobbin holder give you perfect thread control. Fits a range of spool sizes. [No information of bobbin or barrel length]

From the examples above you can see the problem. A fly tier with a length requirement (long tube versus regular) cannot even find out if the bobbin he’s interested in …. is either. There is no “standard” length for bobbins as the word is used to quantify different qualities, not just length, so quoting anything as standard is meaningless.

The lack of information on fly shop web sites suggested that i was about to embark on a search akin to finding vernille yarn, where I hope for the best, trust in the photograph, exhaust all due diligence, then order one and check its size and capabilities before ordering more.

The volume of new offerings suggest there are now two types of bobbins. The first being expensive bobbins that boast new features and capabilities, and the second being inexpensive copies of the traditional wire-handled Matarelli bobbin – with “inexpensive” being a relative term, as they might be two or three times what other makers charge for the same product.

I choose to investigate a few of each to test the waters. The end game was a good “long tube” bobbin that I could recommend to others, should I encounter some capability in these more expensive engineering marvels, I might be tempted to spend more … than my wire-framed baseline.

As regards testing criteria, it had to be functionality that was available with the original Matarelli bobbin to be allowed as a criteria. New bobbins might offer features not present on the Matarelli, but as different features are offered by different manufacturers, the basic criteria would have to be common to all :

Testing Criteria for Bobbin Evaluation

No impediments to threading the bobbin via mouth. Sucking the thread through the barrel to achieve a proper load.
Would it accept “sewing” machine spools, or is it limited to only standard sized thread spools. This would be a feature, not a requirement.
Was the barrel length equivalent to a Matarelli “Long Tube” bobbin, or was it best described as a “standard” length bobbin. “Standard” length being roughly equivalent to a traditional Matarelli bobbin.
Smoothness of thread payout. Bobbin feet are made from plastics, metal, composites, and can be cone, round, lozenge, or pill shaped. Thread spools sold in fly shops are all plastic. Does the bobbin feet (shape and material) payout thread smoothly when pulled, or does the material or shape provide an uneven tension when thread is needed.
If a new feature is offered by the bobbin, that was not available on the traditional Matarelli, does it work? Is the feature useful, or simply “really cool.”

For the purposes of this article, please note the following:

The Barrel Length is the distance between the tip of the bobbin and the bottom of the thread tube, where the thread is inserted to load the bobbin.

The Overall Length is the distance between the tip of the bobbin and the bottom of the thread spool when a standard sized thread spool has been inserted into the bobbin.

New Features are capabilities of the bobbin that did not exist in the Matarelli family of fly tying tools; Midge, Regular, and Long Tube bobbins.

Testing Methodology. Each bobbin tied three dozen flies; Caddis Poobah – size 10, Clouser Minnow – size 2/0, and Pale Morning Dun Parachute – size 16.

Option 1: Stonfo Bobtec 1 Bobbin

Barrel Length: 1.75″

Overall Length: 4.25″

Cost: $32.95

New Feature: Thread Tensioner

The Stonfo Bobtec 1 was a pleasant surprise. It isn’t a “long tube” bobbin, rather it is slightly longer than a Matarelli Standard (about 0.25″ longer), and shorter than a Matarelli Long Tube bobbin, so it’s precisely between the two. It was a perfect fit for my hand size, did not require any adjustment on my part, and I was tying flies instantly.

I liked the Stonfo enormously, but knew it was neither a long tube bobbin, nor would it feel as good to someone with a different hand size. So my initial reaction warranted additional study.

I was able to suck thread through the barrel per normal thread load. The thread tensioner added a little more tension to the spool, but not enough to make it a true tension adjustment. Perhaps it would be useful in adjusting between 6/0 and 8/0 trout thread, but it was not enough tension to make a difference on Size A thread and a 2/0 striper fly. The thread tensioner was not useful to me as it did not have the ability to bear down on the spool, markedly increasing tension.

I did not like the bobbin legs bending easily, and staying bent. I doubt they are using spring steel versus a cheaper less resilient flavor. Prolonged use of the bobbin should have an eye for determining if a leg needs adjustment, given they can move and stay that way.

In summary, the Stonfo was an excellent bobbin, Because it was ideally suited to my hand size and grip I really liked the bobbin. It performed well on both small and large flies, as well as with heavy threads. There were no thread feed issues, the thread barrel was immaculate and smooth. It will not fit the “midge” style sewing bobbin size spools, and I tested the tensioner to see if it would compress the legs enough to allow their use, but the tensioner simply isn’t strong enough to do anything than a minor tension increase. I would recommend the bobbin, but there are many bobbins cheaper than $30 that would work as well as the Stonfo.

Bobbin: 4 stars. New feature: Thread tensioner, 1 star. It tensions the thread slightly, not enough to matter.

Option 2: Kopter Revolution Bobbin

Barrel Length: 2 7/8 “

Overall Length : 5″

Cost: $80

New Feature: Thread barrel and thread barrel housing spin on bearings

This bobbin advertises that all “torque” is removed from the thread as the tier’s thread wraps are negated by the free spinning bobbin barrel and housing. Each turn of thread taken on the fly is now free of the rotational forces of our “clockwise” or “counterclockwise” wraps.

This bobbin feels “fat” in the hand, and is the second longest of the first group tested. When loaded with thread it’s a full five inches from tip to spool butt, and for some pedestal vices that may be a bit much. A tier planning on purchasing a new vise should check the distance between jaw and table, as any bobbin approaching this five inch length may have issues when free hanging under the vise. Use of a dubbing loop or similar device requiring the bobbin be some distance from the hook shank, may not allow the bobbin to “hang” freely, rather it might have to hang off the table surface to hold tension.

The bobbin spins true, but only the black colored area of the bobbin allows you to impart spin to the bobbin. All silver areas spin without moving the bobbin, so dubbed loops require a thumb and forefinger low on the bobbin, in the area of knurled knob at midpoint. I did not find this useful, rather I felt constrained by NOT being able to grab the thread barrel and spin between thumb and forefinger. I can’t say the natural “torque” I impart to the thread via wraps as having ever been bothersome, so I cannot justify all the glitzy spinning elements as being warranted.

I had difficulty sucking the thread through the bobbin with my mouth. I could do it, just not as consistently as with any other bobbin tested. I was able to get the thread into the barrel, but occasionally it seemed it stuck to the sides of the tube (via damp breath?} and never came out the other end. This bobbin comes with its own threader cleaner to aid in loading the barrel, but for me these extra tools are simply something to misplace or drop.

Operation of the bobbin was flawless and silky smooth. There were no issues with thread handling or management with the rotating barrel or the rotating grip portion on the bobbin. Once threaded, the bobbin did its job admirably, and handled both heavy thread and trout sizes very nicely.

This bobbin will not fit the smaller “midge” spools of thread, only standard sized spools.

Bobbin: 3 stars. As I did not like the feel in my hand, too bulky. Could not load thread reliably via mouth, Had to grip below the midpoint to impart “spin” to the dubbed loop. (Silver portion of the bobbin is on bearings, only the black portion of the bobbin allows you to spin it.) Probably feels good to someone with larger hands than mine. New feature: Spinning barrel and housing 0 stars. I cannot claim that the torque imparted to thread is that bad of a condition to warrant this extremely expensive fix.

Renzetti Saltwater Bobbin with Ruby Tip — Renzetti Bobbin

Option 3: Renzetti Saltwater Standard Bobbin (w/ ruby tip)

Barrel Length: 2.75″

Overall Length: 5.25″

Cost: $28 – $30

I chose the Renzetti Salt Water Bobbin as it appeared to be the “long tube” version of the Renzetti bobbin line. As the dimensions of the bobbin are not typically part of the website write up, I used photos of the bobbin to determine it was the longer style. It turns out that the Renzetti Saltwater Standard Bobbin is the longest of all the bobbins tested in this first group, coming in at 5.25″ from ruby tip to the base of the thread spool.

Like the Kopter Bobbin, this long length could pose a problem for a pedestal user, whose vise is a bit shorter than most. The longer length is fine for wrapping thread, and it’s useful when tying streamers on long shanked hooks, as you can get the thread in close to the shank for precision work, yet keeping your fingers out of your line of vision and out of the work area entirely.

The plastic / composite feet held spools of thread well and provided a clean smooth surface when paying out thread while wrapping. The flared base of the thread barrel aided loading the bobbin with thread prior to sucking it through the barrel. The bobbin boasts a larger barrel diameter already, given it’s a saltwater bobbin, but I found the flared end to be a nice touch overall.

Renzetti’s use of the term “standard” is also a bit confusing, given that most makers use standard to refer to length, and Renzetti appears to be using it to distinguish it’s LINE of bobbins, versus shape or length.

There were no new features on the bobbin other than the flared thread barrel. The “ruby tip” I’m lumping into the ceramic tube category, and for the purposes of this article, makes it a new material choice instead of a new feature.

Loading the barrel via “suck” worked fine as did the thread barrel (ruby tip) and bobbin feet. Both thread barrel and feet were quite smooth and worked effortlessly. The larger size lent itself nicely to size “A” thread and lashing a gob of bucktail to a 2/0 hook.

In summary, this is a nice bobbin for any size fly and outside of the issue with length and short pedestal based vises, would not hesitate to use it as a primary bobbin.

Bobbin 4 Stars. It is a Matarelli replacement with no additional gadgetry and feature set. A worthy replacement for a Matarelli bobbin.

Option 4: Griffin Ceramic Bass/Saltwater Bobbin

Barrel Length: 2 5/8″

Overall Length: 4 5/8″

Cost: $16.75

New Features: Flared Barrel (both ends), Thread retainer (Plastic cap on thread barrel)

Griffin was the second vendor to lump their “long tube” option in with “Saltwater” … not sure if this is a trend among manufacturers, but the longer tube doesn’t necessarily mean bigger flies, it’s mostly a hand configuration or “fingers away from the work area” issue, versus simply long tube equals big flies…

Looking at the Griffin lineup, all the other bobbins are the shorter length tube.

This is another of the traditional replacements for the Matarelli bobbin. The flared ends of the thread barrel are a nice touch. Feeding thread is assisted by the larger opening, and the flared tip of the bobbin didn’t give me anything new but it didn’t hinder anything either. I could suck thread through with minimal issue, and each thread load worked flawlessly.

Both barrel and feet fed thread smoothly with little resistance, and thread tension was liight and adjustable in the old manner, stretching the feet outward. The thread retainer, which was nothing more than a rubber cap added onto the top of the thread barrel, was a good idea but it’s likely to be misplaced immediately. I hope Griffin sells these by the dozen, as I’d like to add them to all my bobbins – and keep extras in my bench when I lose the SOB’s …

The bobbin comes with a wire threader in the package.

This is a suitable Matarelli replacement. A serviceable “no frills” bobbin, nothing new to speak of and nothing to complain about either.

Bobbin: 4 stars. New Feature: Thread Cap, 1 star, as it will be lost within the week. Four star idea to cap the bobbin tip with a simple rubber cap, but you need a couple dozen caps close by so you can replace them as they are lost or misplaced.

Option 5: The Petitjean Bobbin

Barrel Length: 1.75″

Overall Length: 4 3/8″

Cost: $75

New Features: Thread tensioner, thread loading, dubbing loop tool

This bobbin is something otherwordly, and I’m not sure how best to characterize it. I love and hate it, and understand that in order to rate it properly, I will need to spend a bit of time learning how to use it. At the moment I’m unsure if it’s a work of art, an engineering marvel, or a complete waste of time.

Let’s start at the beginning. Of the first group of bobbins tested, this is the only bobbin that brings new functionality to the tier, but will require the tier to learn how to use the tool as not all of the features and functionality are intuitive.

It may help to watch a few of the videos on Youtube featuring the designer Marc Petitjean to see how effortless the bobbin can be used by tiers practiced in its use … it will help you over the rough spots as you fumble your way through your initial encounter.

As I did.

New Feature: No thread barrel. The thread is held by a small metal clip on the bottom of the tube, and is threaded onto a small circular wire at the tip of the tube, there is no hollow barrel – rather it’s a hollowed out groove for the thread to follow when inserted into the clip and the tip guide. The wire guide at the top of the barrel has a minute opening that allows thread to be inserted into the loop, but the minute opening also dictates how the bobbin is held, as the thread can come out of the tip as easily as it is added.

Think of it as, thread moves around the barrel when you make a wrap around the hook shank, so you want to avoid the thread approaching the opening. I found it easy to understand how to avoid the thread coming out of the tip when winding around the hook shank, I’m still attempting to understand how to avoid the thread coming out when winding a parachute post – and my hand is not moving in a vertical plane. It may be as simple as keeping the bobbin parallel to the parachute wing and pointed downward, as pointing the bobbin at the wing post allows the thread to escape the tip guide. These are small adjustments in the use of the bobbin that are not intuitive, you have to puzzle out the mechanics and practice.

Example of Physics: I wind right-handed, typically wrapping clockwise around the hook shank. I find holding the bobbin with my thumb on the tensioner keeps the thread contained within the wire guide. If I was left-handed, or wrapped the bobbin counterclockwise, my instinct now is that I would hold the bobbin 180 degrees differently. This may or may not be true, I’ll have to puzzle through the actual physics when I have mastered all the basic skill with the bobbin.

New Feature: Thread Tensioner. This bobbin offers a thread tensioner operating on the same principle as the Stonfo bobbin; a sliding block that brings the bobbin feet closer together, thereby increasing tension on the thread spool. The difference between the Stonfo and the Petitjean is the Petitjean tensioner really can adjust thread tension, and the Stonfo cannot.

I was able to adjust the tension on the spool to the point where I might be able to break a light thread, 8/0 or finer. This was a welcome adjustment on the large saltwater flies I tied, as I could adjust the tension for the size “A” thread and really secure bucktail and flashabou. This thread tensioner actually works, but isn’t a complete brake on the thread spool, just offers real noticeable resistance when set to heavy thread.

New Feature: Dubbing Loop tool. The Petitjean bobbin has a small notch in the thread guide area that allows you to throw a dubbed loop, add dubbing or other material to the loop, insert the bobbin tip into the base of the loop, then pull downward to secure the loop onto the notched area. Once secured, the bobbin can be spun to make the dubbing brush.

In the video the finished dubbed loop is fed onto the shank via vise rotation, and most tiers – even those with rotating vises don’t use that functionality often. I am attempting to learn to wind the dubbed loop using the bobbin instead. This is a bit awkward, yet I see videos of other tiers that have managed it so more work is needed before I can make the transition comfortably.

What I can say is that the bobbin makes dubbed loops so easy and convenient that I find myself using them a lot more than normal because of the new functionality.

Summary: This could be the bobbin that obsoleces the Matarelli standard. The Petitjean bobbin requires effort and time to learn and I am not there yet. The feed and thread management is largely effortless and works quite well, but the cost of the bobbin and the investment to relearn how to use it is non trivial.

I want to give the bobbin four stars, but I recognize that is the masochist in me speaking. I love a good challenge, and this bobbin provides a glimpse of what the future may hold for bobbin technology with appropriate practice.

Summary: This bobbin is not for the beginner tier, and the cost is approaching nosebleed levels, so I would advise potential buyers to find one they can try first before purchasing one. I really like this bobbin, but until I work through all the adjustments needed for winding thread in different planes, I would not recommend this for the average fly tier. A few videos on Youtube are available, most rate it as “dipped in Awesomeness” per normal, but it’s likely they did so after mastering the nuances of the device.

The price tag when compared to our existing bobbins is astronomical. The Petitjean bobbin eliminates a threader cleaner, and a dubbing brush tool, which reduces the nosebleed costs slightly …with the remaining costs compensated only by the increased functionality.

Bobbin: Will rate later. New Features: 4 Stars. The first real thread tensioning I’ve encountered, the first dubbed loop functionality added to a bobbin (that really works), and the threading on clip and tip, instead of the hollow thread barrel – works as advertised – provided you hold the bobbin correctly. Holding the bobbin with thumb on the lower barrel “clip” side works flawlessly, holding the thumb on the “non clip” side allows the thread to escape the tip when wound around the hook shank.

Part 2 of 2: Bobbin Reviews: Lots of Options, Plenty of Price Points, and a Glimpse of the Future

In the next installment I will select an additional set of bobbins containing as many high dollar “engineering marvels” as possible, with a couple low cost Matarelli clones to ensure we get a good cross section. All the bobbins tested so far provided the basic functionality needed, with the only unknown being longevity, and would the different types of barrels and feet survive several decades of use and remain smooth and unscathed.

Disclaimer: All of the bobbins reviewed above were purchased by me at full retail. This ensures some small amount of integrity on my part, and gives me the ability to factor in the cost with the functionality, something I would not be able to do with gifted products.

Fly Tying Materials in the Wild: Vernille and Ultra Chenille

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When “Vernille” burst on the fly tying scene it made significant inroads into our use of rayon chenille. At the time, chenille was weak – relying on a pair of twisted threads to hold fibers onto a spun core, and even the most careful handling caused the weave to lose their integrity and start to shed fibers, often resulting in a mangy or lumpy look to the fly.

In contrast, Vernille could be manhandled, wound repeatedly, and would not lose its structural integrity nor its fiber payload via hammy fingers and unravelling ends. Vernille, also called “velvet chenille” or “ultra chenille” was superior in both function and tolerance of abuse, and only the lack of colors and sizes were problems, issues that were soon rectified.

Chenille and Vernille share similar issues in that fly shops tend to only stock the “medium” size, ignoring the fact that multiple sizes exist, and never offer the product in “skein” form, a 150 yard bundle common to the fabric business, relying instead on prepackaged three yard cards to ensure you visit your fly shop frequently.

Fly tiers need to understand that yarns are like cars, not every color is available

Fabrics, and the yarns that make them, have short lifespans due to the fickle nature of fashion trends. Yarns may only have a window of one to three years before they are discontinued in favor of “the new hotness” in yarn weight and color. Seasonality also determines availability, given heavier yarns seem to be most plentiful in the Winter, and lighter yarns in Summer. Occasionally yarns can be tied to specific garment types, like socks or swimsuits, and their availability and longevity are influenced by the garment usage.

Colors have a similar issue in that yarns made for baby garments tend to be heavy on pastels and light on the vivid Steelhead colors or flourescents. Yarns destined for sweaters will have both pastel and vivid colors, and those for evening wear will even have tinsels and mylar in their weave. Fly tiers need to understand more about their yarns to better predict their availability.

This frequent obsolescence cycle ensures that fly tiers that don’t purchase a multi-year supply of colors are at risk of minor or major shortages later, when the yarn is discontinued by the manufacturer. Fly shops aren’t helping this issue, due to their insistance we buy a three yard card, instead of skeins of our favorite colors.

Trout anglers need the taupes, olives, browns, and earth colors. Steelhead fishermen desire the scarlets, purples, flourescents, and outlandish flavors, and the yarn industry determines what colors they market by garment type and usage, ensuring not every color will be available for each yarn introduced. This means that yarn colors are like cars, and for the 2024 model year they won’t market a “purple” – but it may be available in two years when they reintroduce the yarn!

I only buy skeins, never cards, so all my yarns and chenilles are purchased via fabric and yarn stores, not sold by fly shops. I’d love to give the local fly shop business, but so long as they only stock cards, I will buy yarns and chenille elsewhere.

The last article I published on where to find “Vernille” or “Ultra-Chenille” in the Wild is no longer accurate due to its age, so this is a much needed update to make it easier for you to find where Ultra Chenille sleeps at night …

Weight and Needle Size, a Fly Tier’s lesson in knitting

Understanding yarn weights is not easy, and you have to be careful that you are ordering a yarn capable of tying flies versus too big for anything other than a 6/0 hook. Knitters have elements on the yarn label that denote size and use, and this is a foriegn language to fly tiers.

We’re used to large, medium, fine, and they use terms like “fingering”, “baby”, and “worsted”. Needle size is also a measurement of yarn width, so if the label lacks English, (as many do) the needle size denotes yarn size information as well.

While not an expert, I will attempt to translate. “Fingering” and “Baby” correspond to our “fine“, “Worsted” and “Aran” correspond roughly to our “medium“, “Chunky” could be large, depending on the yarn … and anything bigger is largely unusable for fly tying. As yarn is made by both metric and standard manufacturers subtle differences in size do exist.

Armed with how to read a yarn label, we’re now ready to buy some suede chenille.

Search Engines don’t help much

Search engines don’t help much when searching for this type of chenille, as the result is dominated by fly shops and their tiny little cards. Years ago, Vernille was called “Velvet Chenille” and now the more accurate term is “Suede Chenille.” Searching for either returns numerous pages of fly shops and their carded offerings.

The trick is finding yarn manufacturers that make Suede Chenille, and exclude the fly shops selling it.

When on a manufacturer’s website you’ll be innundated with pages of yarns whose colors and qualities look useful. The quality of the photographs will determine if you can distinguish between four-ply twisted wool and suede chenille. You will also find many yarns you’d like to inspect further – but will have to purchase, have sent to you, then inspect by hand to determine if the yarn is useful or not.There is no ironclad search term that will remove the fly shop data from what you’re looking for, you simply have to search for yarn manufacturers both in the US and abroad. To shorten your search and to apply your sizing information, feel free to use my suede chenille vendor of choice, ICE Yarns, of Turkey.

ICE sells on both Ebay and direct to consumers and appears to be one of the larger yarn companies on the planet. They call their “vernille” yarn, simply “suede chenille”, and is available in 26 colors and only one size, my favorite, which is “fine“. I have found many other suede chenilles at other vendors and manufacturers, in multiple sizes, but ICE makes a superb yarn whose size allows me to double wrap my chenille bodies instead of only single wrap. In addition, this smaller size allows me to use for trout flies as well as steelhead flies, which is a additional bonus.

Note the yarn is listed as “light” and “worsted”, with a needle size of 4 metric. On our yarn chart above, it is a “3” in size. That would make a true “medium” yarn an “aran” or “4” for this company. It is a “microfiber” yarn, typically 100% Polyamide, and will look and feel the same as the yarn sold in the fly shops, only about 25% smaller width than their “medium” thickness.

The price of the ICE Suede Chenille is $1.37 per 155 yards (one skein), and is only sold in packs of 8 skeins per package, about 1000 yards of chenille for about $11 dollars. Shipping is very expensive, because it’s from Turkey, so expect to pay about $6 per pack (of eight skeins) to get it to the US. This is “rock bottom” cheap. Seventeen dollars for for a lifetime supply, equivalent to 300 of the fly shop cards (@$2.50 each) …

Get together with some of the other tiers at your casting club and work out the colors needed for an aggregate order for everyone. Most tiers will only need one skein for a lifetime supply, so find seven other tiers and split the packs evenly – reducing the cost to a couple bucks for each skein.

I’m not going to spend additional time finding vendors of the larger sizes, I will leave that up to you. I will mention a couple of candidates that I have not yet investigated, Toucan lists a “worsted” suede chenille using a larger needle size, don’t order large amounts until you have confirmed it to be the correct size. Order a single skein and verify it is what you expect, it’s the only way to ensure you are looking at the correct size and texture. Note that this yarn is about half pastel colors so if you’re looking for flourescents and similar, you’ll need to find an additional yarn,

Most of the suede chenille yarns you’ll find at Michael’s are of the “Bulky” or “Super Bulky” variety. If you are purchasing it via the Internet and unable to handle the yarn, you must confirm the needle size on the label to guarantee it’s a fit for fly tying. If the needle size is not apparent, look for the textual description of size; fingering, worsted, etc.

Lion has discontinued the “Lion Suede” yarn, but we can use it as an example to determine its suitability for fly tying… Skeins are still available on Ebay, and from those I took the illustration above. Note the needle size is more than double my “fine” example, making this yarn a really thick (bulky or superbulky) suede chenille.

As ICE is liable to make this yarn only for a short time, another tool to assist your search is the Yarnsub.com website. It allows you to enter the name of a yarn that used to be available, and it will recommend yarns like it that are currently available. This is valuable as it gives you a half dozen new leads to focus on for your search.

Entering “Lion Suede” into its search engine produces other suede chenille yarns for you to consider. Use your skill with needle size and the size chart, above, to determine if any of the options are in your size range. Note that Lion Suede is a bulky yarn, so most of the solutions are also “bulky.” Those listed as “baby” are likely what you’re looking for – as “baby” is a smaller size. Clicking on the smaller size yarn will change the search criteria to matching yarns of the smaller size, allowing recursive searches to refine what you need.

Take a trip to Michael’s or your local yarn outlet to practice your visual sizing. There are small differences between standard and metric sizing, and you need to practice reading the yarn label to connect the yarn size in your hand with the needle size listed on the label. The internet does not allow you to touch the product, so your only option if looking for something special is to learn the sizing nomenclature and committing the reserved words; Worsted, Baby, and Fingering, to memory.

On a final note, not all velvet and suede chenilles are created equally. Some of them (especially the bulky and superbulky sizes) can have a very loose weave akin to rayon chenille, so they will fall apart if not gripped carefully. It is ALWAYS preferable to order a skein of a candidate yarn and examine it in person before jumping into a larger order of every color desired. This will save you the embarrassment of overlooking the “superbulky” on the label, or the label might be entirely in Chinese characters, and no translation is possible.

Do your due diligence on each candidate, order a single skein to confirm the properties; size, texture, and construction, and only then order a lot of the yarn.

Follow Up Note:

I ordered skeins of the Toucan Fine, the Boheme Velvet, and the YarnArt Dolce Baby yarns to see if they were also suede chenilles. Each would be described as a “medium” chenille, so the sizing is correct and the labels are the same size as our traditional chenilles (note the needle size mentioned for future searches). They are not “vernille” or suede chenilles, I would classify them as either traditional rayon/polyester chenilles akin to what we normally see in stores, or they are velvet chenilles, not woven tightly enough to qualify as what we know as a “suede” chenille. The Toocan Fine is my favorite of the bunch, but being traditional chenille it will unravel if the ends are not carefully handled. The Boheme Velvet is a knitting chenille, and is partially flat, something I find unique to chenilles made for knitting. It can be spun to a round chenille easily enough, but in its native form has some flatness to it, almost like they flattened one of the four sides. Lashing it onto a hook shank and spinning the strand will return it to a “round” chenille shape and texture.

In summary, these are the correct sizes for our traditional medium chenille, these are not vernille or suede chenille as we know it.

Just a follow up on the below NYMO post

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Just finished tying a few dozen Clouser Minnows using the smaller sewing machine spools and a Matarelli Midge bobbin designed for the smaller spool size.

So I don’t confuse the reader I’ll need to change the nomenclature a bit. The spools for sewing machines are called “bobbins” and we call the apparatus that holds the spool a “bobbin,” which can lead to confusion on the part of the reader. I will call the sewing machine bobbins “spools” – as in sewing machine spool, to distinguish the fly tying tool from the container holding the beading thread.

Unlike sewing machine spools, which are made of steel, the NYMO beading thread is packaged on plastic spindels, with paper sides rather than metal. While the paper thread spools work, my hammy hands and their grip on the fly tying bobbin dislodged the spool from the midge bobbin frequently. I had to change my grip a bit to make these work, and once aware of the issue I was able to make them work reasonably well.

Long Tube, Normal, and Midge bobbins made by Frank Matarelli. This shows the dimensions of the three

Unfortunately, additional definition is needed for what I am describing as a “midge bobbin.” Frank Matarelli made his midge bobbin expressly for the sewing machine spool size – and NOT for our traditional thread spools. Matarelli tools are no longer made, and today “midge” bobbins are typically smaller, lighter bobbins made for tying small flies using the conventional thread spool sizes.

Us old timers that still have a few midge bobbins remember how cone-based thread used to be a reality, and moving fly tying thread from one form to spools was not such an imposition. Naturally, this should “color” your view as to whether this smaller spool form of NYMO is worthwhile for your tying.

It’s likely that winding a rubber band onto the legs of traditional bobbin would close the legs enough for a sewing machine spool to work better. The extra tension afforded by the rubber band might make your current bobbin an option.

Heavy tension on the bobbin while tying can work the thread into the crevass between paper spool side and the packed thread itself. I didn’t get any tangles, but I did get a few turns of uneven tension as a result. When working with big saltwater flies this isn’t much of an issue, but could be if the thread sizes and flies tied were smaller.

In summary, there was a wee bit more bother using the paper spools due to the tier’s palm pushing the paper spool out of the grip of the bobbin’s legs. A grip adjustment was necessary so that I didn’t continually knock the spool from the grip of the bobbin legs. As this thread is 2/0 or larger, you will be tying flies commensurate with the thread size and force will likely cause issues. Be so advised.

Us old tiers cried bitterly on the news of its demise

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NYMO was the first unwoven nylon sewing thread that revolutionized fly tying

NYMO, by the Belding Cortecelli Company, was the first nylon sewing thread that relegated all the buttonhole twists, silks, and cotton threads of yesteryear to the scrap heap. As a young tier, I marveled at its strength and how it could be spun via a bobbin into both a round small thread, and unspun to generate a flat thread that added little bulk. We gleefully spun the bobbin to produce the round variant that would knife through deer hair, and attached feathers and hackle tip wings via the flat, “no bulk”, flavor. It was revolutionary to the fly tying realm and changed our perspective of threads and their capabilities forever.

… and then came the news they were taking it away …

As this predates the Internet and online shopping, a large city might have access to a fly shop, whose stock was quickly cleaned out, and the rest of us were left ransacking sewing stores, millinery outlets, and wandering around any premises that sold fabric, hoping to find a thread section.

While the thread was magical in the fly tying circles, it sucked horribly as a sewing thread. The “Use warm Iron” admonishment on every spool, meant just that … as using a hot iron would melt nylon and the garment fell apart. This didn’t sit well with the sewing community, nor the dry cleaners, so the Belding Cortescelli Company removed the thread from the mainstay outlets.

I remember spying a few spools of size “A” White at one of the International Anglers Expositions, and as I pointed a shaking finger at the treasure and fumbled for my billfold, was grilled by the proprietor as to how, ” …had I never used it before, I shouldn’t … as it was being pulled off the market.”

I was successful in laying in a small stock of Size A, in black and white, then resigned myself to the notion that on their consumption it was back to the crappy threads of yore.

Fortunately, Monocord emerged shortly after NYMO disappeared, and I, as well as my fellow fly tiers, learned that tying tiny dry flies with “000” (3/0,three-ought) was infinitely superior than the thicker, Size “A” NYMO we had squirreled away. NYMO had been available in 3/0 as well, but when the run started on its dwindling stocks, only “A” was available for hoarding.

What brought back all those distant memories was my recent discovery that NYMO has been reintroduced by Belding Cortiscelli, and is marketed as a “beading thread.” Beading thread is a heavy, coarse thread designed for constructing beaded bracelets and other bead jewelry. Most commonly used by jewelry makers in Size “D”, for strength, the venerable NYMO is available in few fly tying sizes as well. The smallest I’ve found is “00” (2/0, or two-ought), which isn’t likely to unseat our existing threads like Danville’s 6/0 Flymaster, 8/0 Ultra, or UNI threads, but it could prove economical for tying larger flies like steelhead, bass, and saltwater flies.

NYMO Thread — A cone of NYMO tying thread

In addition, the packaging of NYMO offers both “Cones” and spools designed for sewing machines, which fit the Matarelli Midge bobbin, something our current spools do not. As thread hasn’t been available in cones to us fly tiers since the late seventies, most tiers will not find the 3 ounce and 6 ounce (or 1lb) cones attractive. In the olden days, we would decant thread off a cone by placing a spool on a power drill and loading the thread from the cone onto the empty spool akin to adding backing to a fly reel. The six ounce cones cost somewhere between $22 and $55, depending on the source, and hold about 5000 yards of thread, nearly 50 – 100yd spools. The sewing machine spools are 145 yard spools (size 2/0) and range anywhere from about a dollar, to about $4.50 per spool. It pays to refine your search to get the best pricing, and you need to frequent beading and craft stores, not fly shops. Etsy and Ebay are your friends as well.

I was able to secure quite a few individual spools for about $1 per spool. I grabbed some black, white, and blue, in the 2/0 size, as I am making a lot of salt water flies for a donation project I am working on. I routinely find these on Ebay, sold in various colors and sizes, in odd lots sold by private individuals. It appears they use thread colors for a specific project, then move onto other jewelry using other thread colors. Remnants of their past project are then sold on Ebay or Etsy at a reduced price.

Given the wide variety in pricing for the thread, I would only purchase it on sale or on the cone. If you opt for the cone, save empty plastic bobbins first to give you something to offload onto, as the cone is unusable until you transfer the thread to spools useful for your traditional (or midge) bobbin. Store all threads out of direct sunlight, as that is nylon’s nemisis. I am using size “A” NYMO that is nearly fifty years old, and due to dark storage, it has retained its strength without decay.

Many new colors are available that were not present in the past, so we can thank the jewelry and craft folks for insisting on all the muaves, puces, and goldenrods, we enjoy today. As a cautionary note, do not assume you are getting the 2/0 size unless it is plainly marked (or advertised) as such. The most common sizes used for beading appears to be “D”, which is considerably larger than anything we use today.

It’s nice to have a few alternatives to the fly tying brands, given how inexpensive threads are to manufacture.

A Big Step for a Wading Angler, Contemplating the Move to an Angling Kayak

Fly fishing from a kayak is a welcome transition for the heretofore shore bound angler, as many of the issues that haunt slippery rocks and low hanging branches vanish with the mobility that boating offers. There are also many new hazards you’ll encounter and many tendencies that must be left on shore where they belong.

Getting Your Mind Right, dealing with Hoarding Instincts

The only storage constraint on the wading angler is the capacity of his fishing vest. The practice of wadding everything into a maze of pockets to resupply the angler afield has morphed into a garment carrying old sandwiches, partially consumed protein bars, fly boxes, foam floats, rain ponchos, snakebite kits, tippet spools, insect repellant and the obligatory snarl of toilet paper.

These hoarding instincts we learned early as doting parents insisted our “angling empire” fit into one tackle box, later one fly box, and culminating into one overly warm car trunk, or closet.

While there are many kinds of kayaks and all with different options, angling kayaks offer the illusion that you can increase the amount of gear carried as the boat does the physical lifting instead of you. Suddenly that onboard storage sprouts neo-essentials like; extra drinks, dry clothes, spare spools, baby diapers (from a prior adventure) and a backup rod, and you must resist this hoarding instinct – as it will be your undoing.

The size and weight of your boat will influence where it can be launched. Longer kayaks are faster in the water but can be heavier on land. Wheel assemblies can be added to most kayaks to equip them for pavement, dirt, or beach sand, and assist the launching process tremendously. The wrong wheel type makes the launch extra burdensome, as thin narrow pavement wheels will dig into mud or sand and make the boat hard to move. New or strange lakes offer unknown launch scenarios and our Western states are in a multi-year drought, complicating matters further. As lake levels recede due to drought, the distance between parking area and the water’s edge increases. Man made lakes are typically steep “bowls” designed to as much water as possible, so it’s not a long, level walk to the water’s edge – it’s a sloping downhill slide with your kayak threatening to alternately run you over or drag you downhill.

Complicating things further is the composition of the newly exposed slope, which is often alternating bands of decomposing rock, loose soil, and shale. As you near the water include weeds and scrub growth, as well as sand and mud, ensuring your footing and launch are a mix of dicey and downright treacherous.

Fortunately, the easy part is getting the boat downhill … Gravity is a willing accomplice and while strenuous, rolling the boat down to the water’s edge gives you an invisible helper.

The return trip is another story…

After a long day on the water you have a physical and arduous climb UPHILL to the car. Cart wheels will fight you on every rock and root, dig deep into mud or loose cobble, and your footing will be uncertain due to loose shale and gravel, making that 100 yard trek back to the pavement nothing short of heart pounding torture. Adding to the mix is all the water you added into the hull via pedal motor housing, or simply slopping it into the boat via flopping fish and exuberance.

Many launch scenarios may have your boat out of sight of the parking lot. Multiple trips to offload gear could find you leaving the boat filled with valuable tackle, cameras, and other expensive items undefended, in a high traffic area like a day use area or beach. You need to keep your boat light enough to handle the return all gear to your vehicle in a single trip.

Be frugal with gear. Consult the dry weight of the boat and remember you will be adding food, drinks, tackle, anchors, drink holders, floatation devices, and many things you have no expectations of owning … fish finders (containing transducers, batteries, and cable), anchor trollies, milk crates, rod holders, onboard wheel assemblies, and assorted cordage, cable ties, and pool noodles.

Traditional paddling kayaks (sit inside kayaks) are light with many 12 foot models only 50-65 pounds. Angling kayaks (sit on top kayaks) can weigh twice that as they contain many amenities unnecessary to a paddle kayak. Seats, storage, battery harness, cable controls, and pulleys all add extra weight, and boats can weigh over 100 pounds dry.

My Hobie ProAngler 360 kayak is 12 feet long and weighs 105 (2020 weight, 2022 weight is 109.5) pounds empty. It is the “leaden battleship” of angling kayaks, not due to its size – rather due to its features and ability to expand via the Hobie Rail System. Assume you’re carrying nearly 40 pounds of tackle, 10 pounds of anchors, cordage and landing nets, a couple of rods, 5 pounds of drinks and food and all the leashes, tethers, and floatation devices (PFD), and you’re likely to tip the scales at 160-170 pounds, counting the inboard water. This is not a trivial burden on a thirty degree slope with uncertain footing …

You need to remain vigilant on what you add to your kayak, and you need to unload items unique to a specific trip on your return – so they don’t add unnecessary weight to your boat. Lowrance and similar fish finders are easily mounted to your new kayak, but do you really need to know there are fish fifty feet below you? Fishing a jig, fifty feet is nothing, fishing a fly and that same fifty feet is an insurmountable depth.

I carry a thermometer instead. I can check water temperature as needed, and while it’s not as convenient as on a Hummingbird screen, it is a hell of a lot lighter.

I can’t tell you which kayak is best – neither can the staff that sell them ..

There are many really good angling kayaks, most run between $1500 –$5000, which is significant cost, nearly all are worth every penny spent.

There is no “best” kayak, there is however a “best” kayak tailored to you, your needs, and the uniqueness of your fishing. Some will use them in both freshwater and salt, some in still water only, some for fly and spinning, some will troll, some in estuary or riverine environments, all will be stable and seaworthy craft, but the features you need for fly fishing are not obvious …

Pick your new kayak based on its power plant, its ability to reverse direction (instant reverse), and extensibility. These are unquestionably the most important features for fly fishermen.

Power Plant: Pedal versus Paddle: Both work, but one seems tailored to fly fishing

Fly fishing is a uniquely “hand intensive” fishing style. We require constant contact with the rod and line to cast, mend, gather, and impart motion to the fly. Paddle kayaks require two hands gripping the kayak paddle, pedal kayaks are powered by an angler’s legs, leaving both hands free to cast or strip while the boat is under power.

Personal Opinion ** : My personal opinion is that pedal kayaks are best suited for fly fishermen, as they offer the unique ability to cast and move at the same time. Paddle kayaks are fine for fly fishing, but you have to lay down the rod to move any distance, and you’re constantly swapping rod and paddle, allowing running line to catch on all manner of things in the boat as you paddle to adjust your attitude towards shore or target. You WILL drop things in the water if you fish enough, do you want to risk your rod to the Briny Deep?

Pedal kayaks have two basic styles of motion; pedaling a propellor-equipped or pedaling a fin equipped motor for locomotion. Hobie uses “fins” to move the boat, all of the other manufacturers use the more traditional propellor for locomotion.

Regardless of the style of pedal motion, the core issue is your ability to snag the drive with your fly – or run over your fly line with the boat and get it tangled with the prop, and the motor’s ability to kick up when hitting an underwater object. Hobie fins have a hinge allowing them to fold up when striking an underwater object and restore themselves to the original configuration on the next power stroke. Prop drives have the ability to “kick up” in the same manner, but not all of them can do so, so it’s something to check on the boat, model, and manufacturer you’re contemplating.

You will hit underwater objects especially when you forget to retract the motor when landing the boat, or when you loan the craft to your idjit pal.

I have snagged my rudder, skeg, and fins while fishing, and it is problematic – but not overly so. You will learn to keep your fly line away from the boat as wind and pedaling can move the boat over your fly line and fly quickly. A tangle in the running line – or a few turns of loose line snagged on something inside the boat cockpit, and you risk getting the fly and line under the boat if under power. Recently, I disabled my rudder by snagging a large striper fly in the hinge and had to land the boat to remove the fly and restore rudder function.

With practice you will learn to stop your pedal motion and pause before casting. Kayaks are quite graceful in the water, and the boat will continue to move forward for 20 feet or so when you stop pedaling. Releasing your cast as the boat loses forward momentum means you do not roll over the line and do not have to frantically strip to catch up to the fly.

Instant Reverse: Floating Physics and the unique complications of kayak fly casting

A traditional “sit on top” fishing kayak has the angler seated about two thirds of the way down the boat towards the stern. The angler is a “sail-like” object, so his profile and its resistance to wind will add motion to the boat in any breeze.

If the wind is behind the angler the boat will drift forward, wind in front, boat will drift backward, etc. Motion of the boat will add drag to the fly, or make it move twice as fast as intended, given how the boat can swing in circles due to its “off center sail”. A fly fisherman will need to constantly adjust his attitude to his fly, as the boat can move in any direction at any time.

This is markedly different from the wading angler, who remains motionless while adjusting the line between him and the fly.

“Instant reverse” describes the ability to change the boat’s direction quickly, and has multiple flavors among the many kayak manufacturers. Because of the vagrancies of wind on the angler, instant reverse will be among the top three issues of your fly fishing experience, as you will be constantly adjusting the boat and its angle to the fly or shoreline.

Hobie kayaks have multiple flavors of reverse on their pedal kayaks, those that use the 180 drive require you to reach down and pull a cable to initiate reverse (the same to resume forward motion), and the newer 360 drive, which allows the motor to thrust at any angle in a 360 degree arc, requires you to turn a handle to pick the angle of thrust. Instant reverse then requires the handle to be spun 180 degrees to go backward, and returned 180 degrees to resume forward motion.

Propellor kayaks only require you to stop pedaling forward and pedal backward to reverse boat motion. Prop driven kayaks are superior to all others in this regard – and in my estimation are the only kayaks that offer true “instant reverse.”

I’ve not owned the propellor flavor, but having spent four seasons on a Hobie 360 – I am quite comfortable turning the handle while the boat is under power (as the rudder handle and motor thrust handle sit atop one another). The 360 Drive offers other mobility features superior to propellor kayaks as the drive thrust allows it to be turned without moving the boat forward, which is a huge advantage in tight quarters (think maneuvering in snags, docks, and chasing largemouth bass).

Personal Opinion**: Propellor based kayaks have true instant reverse, and in my estimation are superior to all others save paddle kayaks, which also have human powered “instant reverse” (typically preceded by the exclamation, “Oh, sh*t” …). The Hobie crank handle is fine, it’s simply not hand’s free like the propellor flavor. You never can have too many hands when managing fly line, boat motion, and sharp things flying in your direction …

Extensibility and all the gadgetry (weight) therein

One of the more important features in kayak selection is what extensions and capabilities can be added via third party. Hobie kayaks use a proprietary “H-Rail” system to attach additional features and connectivity to the boat. Their “H Rail” can be adapted to other standards via Scotty mounts, or RailBlaza Starport mounts. These connections to the boat allow you to add additional features that don’t come with the boat like fish finders, storage, GoPro Camera masts, rod holders, and dozens of other gadgets.

Hobie produces a generic plate mount attachment that allows you to modify, screw, or glue anything you wish to their hexagonal rail attachment, think Boom Box or similar outlandish need. Railblaza makes a similar, rotating platform attachment that is pre-drilled and can be modified, other vendors offer similar functionality.

Whichever kayak you fancy, ensure it has ample extensibility or you will regret the purchase. Not knowing what’s needed in the future or how your angling will change with a job related relocation, the extensibility of your kayak will determine how soon you outgrow it or whether that will happen.

When reviewing watercraft, determine which type of mounts and rails come native to the craft. Many of these can be added to older boats but require drilling holes in the hull, which adds additional issues with sealants, leaks, and the potential to weaken the craft via extensive modification. If you’re not being gifted a kayak or the sudden beneficiary of some similar freebie, I would recommend the purchase of a kayak that contains rails built into the superstructure or hull. The manufacturer choice I’ll leave to you, but get something allowing you to add to the base craft via supported mounts.

As other family members are likely to use your craft and don’t share your passion for fly fishing, the ability to add a drink holder or trolling rod holder may be highly desirable. Kayaks are a pleasant way to enjoy the out-of-doors and you don’t need to be a Purist to enjoy a comfortable seat, warm sun, and a “stroll” around the lake. In fact, the “smart” lad will market the purchase as a “family friendly” non-gas guzzling, Green Initiative – as the price tag for The Beast will have to be negotiated.

There are other ways to add capabilities to your kayak, most are tailored to the specific craft or extensibility it offers; rails versus mounts, etc. I will cover some ways to modify the Hobie when I write about the specific configuration I employ on my 12’ Hobie ProAngler 360.

Leashes and the need to strap everything down

Kayaks are tippy regardless of their size, and like canoes, standing up risks a bath. Kayaks are flat bottomed and lack a keel, so an aggressive lean to see or grab a fish coupled with a broadside wave strike and you could flip your boat instantly. Most angling kayaks are stable, and their stability increases with length, but the threat of an unexpected dunking is quite real, especially if you do something stupid.

Big fish make people stupid.

So does alcohol.

… as does that 24’ ski barge that rounded the point filled with liquored up Millennials … whose wake is about to sink you.

Everything you bring onto the boat must be securely stored via locked hatch or leashed to the superstructure with a lead designed for that purpose. This means once the hull storage is full, each item must be attached individually to the boat if you want to keep it. Paddle, Landing Net, Tackle containers, rod, drinks, food, pedal drive, yourself, anchor, absolutely everything not sealed within the hull must be leashed. If the boat flips, and it will, everything will disappear into the depths or float away while you scramble to get back aboard.

I am leashed to the rail as well. This way the boat cannot move more than six feet from me once I tumble into the water.

My Hobie ProAngler has restraints for extra rods that hold spinning or casting rods tight to the hull. These will not work for fly rods as fly rod pieces are too numerous and slender. I will lose my rod if I tip the boat and relinquish my grip on the handle.

So be it.

Your pedal drive and paddle are the only means of locomotion for the boat. I leash both to the Hobie rail, as the paddle is the backup to the pedal drive and I need at least one to make it back to shore.

My landing net is leashed to the hull in similar fashion and has more than one use in the boat. As it’s likely to be in your other hand when landing a big fish, and that fish could make me forget prudence, it will be lost if I roll the boat with the rod in the other hand. Hence the leash.

I reserve the hull storage for the expensive stuff. Lures and Plugs for largemouth when casting or spin fishing, first aid kit to stop bleeding and bandage the hook punctures, waterproof container with wallet and car keys, and all those tiny packages of split shot, strike indicators, fly boxes, GoPro batteries, leader spools, and hook hones. (I will elaborate on this configuration in future articles tuned to my specific craft.)

Your rod is the only wild card in this mix, as a leash is unwieldy due to the casting motion. I opt not to leash my rod and recognize the potential for its loss.

If you wish to keep it, it must be attached to the boat.

There is no exception.

No FIshing Vests needed

Sudden immersion is a shock, and while you recover and begin to tread water – are you going to reach for the boat or your rod as it disappears into the water?

If you’re not leashed to the boat and there’s a stiff breeze your kayak will be moving to windward as soon as you hit the water. By the time you resurface it might be eight or ten feet distant, and if you’re in deep water you might be in trouble.

To hell with the rod, you go for the boat as it may be the only thing between you and drowning.

You must wear a Personal Floatation Device (PFD) in your kayak as the risk of flipping climbs with the popularity of the waterway, inclement weather, big tides, and drunken boaters. Choose a vest that is designed for swimming, not one designed for the crowd that frequents big party barges and hang on the cabin wall unused. California boating regulations require all kayakers to wear a PFD equipped with a whistle for alerting other boaters. As the PFD will preclude the use of a fishing vest, you will need to design a new tackle storage solution that allows the same freedom of access as a vest, yet will be leashed to the boat (with all zippers closed) when not in use. (I will describe my system in a future article on Hobie configuration).

Your PFD can have floatation around your shoulders but make sure it doesn’t have any in the lower back area. Any padding near the lower back and waist will interfere with your boat seat and your posture, making the seat less comfortable.

I opted for a Stohlquist Fisherman, as it had a few extra pockets, no padding on the lower back, and is of the “swimming” style. These can be pricey, but being a life saving device is worth every penny.

If you use the boat in salt water many anglers stuff the kayak with pool noodles to allow additional buoyancy. The assumption is that the closed cell foam will ensure the kayak floats if upside down or full of water, giving you something to cling to while you BLEAT frantically on your attached whistle ..

Polypropylene is your friend. Poly won’t absorb water, so clothing that is windproof, rain resistant, and made from Polypropylene will provide additional safety. Big woolen sweaters, Levi jeans, and layered cotton shirts are all barriers for wind and cold, but they will absorb many pounds of extra water when immersed in the lake. If you flip your boat you will have to get back in it unassisted. If you are away from shore you will need to climb in via the nose or stern, or learn to belly up into the cockpit and pivot into the pedal well. If you have an extra fifty pounds of water in that sweater/jean/shirt/jacket combination it will reduce your ability to lift yourself out of the water and back into the boat.

Buy windproof clothing in bright colors (visibility matters) that doesn’t absorb water. Wear wetsuits in the salt (especially on the West Coast) and leave shoes in the car. Wet suit booties offer both floatation and will not absorb water when soaked and are much superior to shoes or sneakers. Most of your launches will be in muddy terrain and wet shoes and socks put a damper on the day no matter how pleasant the weather and fishing.

You’re more mobile than the fellow with the V8, respect the launch and dock protocols

Gas guzzling V8 owners replete with their spiffy Dodge RAM and attendant entourage actually need the dock to launch – you can shove your boat in the water with less fuss. If you are launching your kayak at a traditional lake launch frequented by big boats on trailers, prepare your boat at your truck and avoid using the dock for anything but the launch.

The standard wheeled cart assembly allows you to load your boat with tackle, clothing and food while at your truck. You can string your rod and place it into the kayak at the same time. Only when you are ready to launch should you move into the path of the dock and motorized launch area. Be polite, courteous and fast. If you are carrying your wheel assembly back to the car then keep your boat to the side with the least traffic, and only do so if the distance is short. These launches are designed for the motorized angler and their ritual requires additional maneuver compared to us kayak types.

Anyone learning to back a boat in the water requires considerable space, so give it to them regardless … never insist on imposing your will on a craft whose wake can swamp you.

This advice is doubly important at the end of the day when the crowd at the dock is liquored up and sunburnt. Don’t risk aggression by dawdling at the launch area with your boat, get it out of the water and into the safety of the parking area before wiping it down or storing gear.

Summary:

The move from wading angler to kayak angler requires money and a lot of thought to established fishing practices. Many of the tendencies developed from years of angling need to be retooled and rethought rather than simply ported to the new craft. Everything you bring onto your boat is a liability and subject to loss, so you need to plan your storage and leash system – and you will require several seasons before the configuration you chose will become second nature, so plan for an evolution of your boating behavior. Closing tackle boxes and zipping up your fly box will be cumbersome and inefficient at first, but losing the entire collection to the lake is far worse – and may even end your trip completely.

Expect to evolve your kayak use, don’t assume it will all go swimmingly despite hours of YouTube review and classes attended.

Keep weight and items to a minimum, especially if you’re in a drought area.

Assume a new or strange lake might have a poor launch facility, one that requires portage of boat and equipment to the water. Try to keep it to a single trip from car to water, if you can’t then prioritize your valuables based on the risks.

Anything not tied to the boat will be lost, that includes you.

Dress for success, avoid items that absorb and retain lots of water.

If forced to comingle with power boats, use the dock sparingly and fast. Do not rig tackle or dawdle. Save the fish stories for the parking area, not the boat dock.

My war against the 25 pack continues

I held my nose while ordering a 25 pack of “balance leech pins”. I needed a sample of the genuine to confirm what these really were – and from which industry they came. Possession of a 25 pack of anything from a tackle store typically requires me to blush profusely and commit the obligatory toe scuff to distract onlookers.

I hate 25 packs of anything, unless it’s Twinkies.

In fly fishing, the twenty five pack is just enough material to fiddle with and then run out when you discover some unknown yet useful quality.It’s enough to give your fishing buddy a handful, then find you only have three for yourself.

Today’s case it was enough to identify that “balanced leech pins” at $2.95 for 25, are simply dress maker’s pins – available at any fabric store for $6.95 for 750 of them. This wasn’t earth shattering as many fly tiers have guessed similarly, but as I noted the pattern recipe called for fly tying beads to balance the fly, and beads being another exorbitant 25 pack item, I thought I’d mention that standard metal beads will work better than the fly tying version – and are much cheaper.

Dressmaker pins are used as they have a flattened head which prevents our bead from slipping off the end of the pin.

DressMaker500

Solid copper, steel, or brass beads are available from Etsy, eBay, or Rings & Things and most hobby stores that cater to jewelry making. They work on barbless fly hooks with model perfect bends as they are not slotted to accommodate barb or sproat-style bends, but are sold for about $4 per hundred, versus $4.5 per 25 at the fly shop.

“Balance Leeching” is tying the fly on a 60 degree jig hook and including a bead on a dress maker’s pin to hold the fly level when suspended from a strike indicator. I had an idea this would work well on shallow weed flats for bass, and was intent on tying a couple dozen to try with minnow imitations as well as leechs.

balance_minnow600

Any chance I have to thwart the sale of a 25 pack of anything is worthy of the effort.I used some “diamond cut” 4mm iron beads to act as the balance element and tied others with dual beads so they would bang against one another (rattle) during the retrieve. Weeds are not yet available in the local lakes but they’ll show once the warm weather starts in earnest.

In Spring a Young Man’s thoughts turn to Cloudy Water

Spring is synonymous with the “Great Flush” wherein increased water levels caused by rain and snowmelt sends leaves, branches, empty water bottles, discarded Pandemic masks, and everything not nailed down – into whatever body of water is downstream.

I always seem to run into dirty water regardless of where I’m fishing and am always fiddling with flies attempting to find a solution to their visual appeal being obscured by debris and dirt.

The drought has complicated matters as well. As the water in lakes are drawn down it exposes loose dirt with little vegetation to hold it in place. Wave action caused by wind will stir that mix into a coffee colored slick that will extend it’s plume into the lake from the windward side of every point.

Wind and shallow water are common to both freshwater lakes and the California Delta. Vegetation tends to cleanse dirty water but a drought, coupled with the time of year, weeds are not available. Much of the underwater vegetation dies back during the Fall and Winter months, and the spring flush often empties into lakes whose weeds have not yet started their new cycle. The California Delta has less water level fluctuation and much more resident vegetation but is prone to wind which stirs the water in the shallows – disturbing bottom debris and sediment which quickly discolors water in the surrounding flats.

As fly fishing lacks many of the sensory elements of other types of fishing, like scent or sound, we are at a disadvantage when water conditions are less than ideal. Watching those Pro Bass shows often tempts me into using “Scent of a Thousand Nightcrawlers,” but I’ve resisted thus far only because the oily mess is likely to mat all materials and render flies lifeless and stiff.

Sound is a viable option on flies, but their method of attachment is a bit problematic. Many kinds of rattles exist for the bass jig market and might be adapted to flies with a bit of ingenuity.

The volume of rattle equipped baits on the lure and plug market suggests both lure manufacturers and anglers believe it attractive to predatory fish. As I’ve not read all the science (yet), I’ll assume the mob is onto something and all those rattle equipped lures are something more than a means to separate a fool and his money … and sound is an attribute to a fly in discolored water.

While not expert on sounds emitted by baitfish – it’s likely digestive noises and excess air are present in the innards of anything that isn’t a plant. Water transmits sound readily but I’m unsure whether “bad” noises exist and whether gastric noises or baitfish flatulence is attractive to predators. The act of swimming, either leisurely or frantically, is likely to add vibration (sound) into the water as well. The receptor on a predacious fish is likely its lateral line – as sound is likely transmitted through water as a vibration.

The bigger question is, which sounds and what pitch are triggers for large fish? Big sound, loud or soft, continuous sound or discrete notes?

I’d guess that the species and feeding behavior of the predator adds a unique mix of triggers, and Sailfish may respond to bigger sounds that would send a trout fleeing in terror. Schooling bait likely “sounds” different than a solitary minnow, so part of the mix will vary with the fish sought or imitated by the rattle equipped fly.

rattle700

Rattles exist in a number of options, most are for jigs and bait casting gear. Three basic styles are the dual harness type (XTech), the “Pepper Jig” type – whose rattles fit into a rubber harness akin to a set of Mickey Mouse ears (rattles in the box), and the fly tying rattle (Eye Glass Rattle) – which are shaped like a traditional “barbell” eye, and attached in the same way.

All of these are “dogs with fleas” for the adventurous fly tier. Both the dual harness and the Pepper Jig rattles rely on a rubber element that can be lashed onto a hook with ease. Unfortunately, rubber will oxidize and you might lose the rattle after a season or two. The basic cylinder of the “Pepper” shaped rattle is problematic and bulbous, so securing it to the shank without using the harness is an issue, both in secure attachment and in its interference in tying the actual fly itself.

The “barbell” style rattle eyes have little or no sound as the beads are so tiny, so if it’s the noise you’re after, the fly tying version are essentially worthless. As I am unsure which sounds are most desirable to Striped Bass and Largemouth/Smallmouth, and sound is the solution to combat discolored water, I choose to use the larger beads and noisiest rattles ; the double barbell and/or Pepper Jig flavor.

The physics of rattles has to be considered as well. Rattles create sound as one or more “BB’s” hit either end of a air filled chamber. Air is buoyant so the larger rattles (containing bigger beads and more trapped air) can alter the buoyancy of the completed fly. Using a double rattle will exacerbate the issue, so it’s prudent to drop your flies in a glass of water to determine whether you’ve affected the rake or pitch of the fly in the water.

I chose to use a single rattle from the dual harness. I trim the harness at the center bulb and tie the stem portion onto the hook shank in the tail position. this allows the bucktail or marabou to flow around the rattle body and hide it within the fly.

It’s worthy to note that both the dual harness and “Pepper Jig” variants can be threaded onto the fly by simply forcing the hole in the center harness over the fly head or onto the leader itself. This offers the ability to add and remove rattles to your existing flies but relies on the elasticity of the plastic to remain securely attached. It’s plain the maker would have chosen a plastic that resists oxidation, as jigs are subject to sunlight as well as flies, but the force of casting the fly coupled with stretching the rubber ring over the hook eye will likely cause it to fail sooner than its traditional use.

645rattleBluegill

On the above “Little Bluegill” you can see the single barrel of the rattle tied in at the tail position. I have spread open the marabou to show the rattle, and when fished the rattle is not visible nor does it seem to affect the fly action. Any buoyancy issues will be overpowered by the lead eyes up front.

Mounting the rattle at the tail keeps it from obstructing the gape of the hook. Threading rattles onto the leader or eye means the barrels have the ability to dangle below the fly and may cause some issues with hook setting on smaller hooks. I trimmed the tether short to keep the barrel up tight to the shank of the hook rather than allowing it to sag to one side or the other.

Marabou striper flies fully loaded with water are already heavy things to hurl, so I didn’t notice issues with the increased weight. A fully loaded 2/0 is about as aerodynamic as a small school bus, so wear protective gear regardless.

8lbStriper700

I fished Sherman Island just after two days of blustery wind last week and managed to score a single eight pound striper. The water was noticeably dirty from all the wind activity and while I cannot say it was the rattle that seduced the slimy SOB, I’d like to think I outwitted him on his own turf ..

More testing is required to prove anything however. I am scouring the Internet to see if there is any scientific work on the subject, that can translated from Latin into English, as I am interested on how pitch and tone might attract or repel – and whether I can manufacture something suitable to confirm any theories on this subject.

In the meantime, enjoy fiddling with these options most are available from any shops catering to lure and jig making.

I plan on using the same flies for Largemouth to see if they aid in catching fish on the muddy plumes of water that come off the points in the afternoon. Wind traditionally makes an appearance in early afternoon, and my wandering about on the bank has revealed that schools of Threadfin Shad use these plumes as cover from predators, foraging with relative impunity .. Dragging my fly out of such a plume might trigger something to dine, and I do so love to share my flies with things smaller than me…

Loon ERGO Serrated Scissor Review

The pandemic has accelerated my conversion from trout fisherman to bass fisherman due to the unknowns associated with food, lodging and travel. I’ve shelved all the gossamer and petite gear needed for trout fishing in favor of Styrofoam, hair, rubber legs, and hooks capable of severing your Carotid artery with an errant cast.

Tying flies for bass is the “Widow Maker” for most marriages, as the production of a dozen 2/0 poppers involves half a deer hide, acres of marabou and brightly dyed Grizzly hackle, most of which winds up clinging to your lap or blowing about your tying room at the whim of your air conditioning.

I keep reaching for my “trout” scissors to cut bead chain eyes and saw through Stinger hooks and realized they were better served staying in the drawer given their delicacy. Unable to find my old serrated edge heavy scissors, I picked up a pair of the Loon Outdoor Ergo Hair scissors to replace them. At $15 per pair, these scissors are priced well considering the potential for destroying them while restocking your fly box.

Tying big deer hair poppers can shorten the life of traditional delicate scissors as there are additional pressures that go hand in hand with larger flies.

Volume: Large bass poppers require many times the materials of smaller trout flies. That translates into cutting larger volumes of material with each cut of your scissor. As leverage plays into the physics of scissor cuts – the longer the scissor the more force is applied to the fulcrum area, the small screw holding the scissors together. Stainless steel is a “soft” steel (compared to others), and the screw steel is typically “harder” than Stainless, which ensures this excess force will eventually deform the screw hole and loosen the scissor over time.

Obscurity: Tying big lumpy hair poppers means you have an enormous wad of hair lashed to your hook prior to trimming the final shape. As the majority of the hook is hidden , it’s very easy to close the scissor on the shank, point, or eye – simply because you couldn’t see it while trimming. Whacking a hook point with your scissors is bad for the tips and for the screw area, as the steel of a hook is “harder” than the steel (often Stainless) used to make the scissor. Hook steel can easily take the points off of a Tungsten scissor, as Tungsten is among the hardest of all steels – but it is also among the most brittle.

Dirt: Carving large amounts of deer hair off of the hide is a dirty business. While animal hides are cleaned and washed prior to being parted up for packaging, there is still a lot of foreign material trapped in the hair. Dirt, debris, dried blood, seeds, and everything else trapped in the under fur will be in the path of your scissors each time you make a cut of hair, and that additional wear adds over time.

Bulk: Cutting through three-quarters of an inch of Elk hair takes considerably more effort than trimming a mallard feather, yet most tiers expect the results to be identical. Cutting large amounts of material with small scissors requires the scissor to be closed slower than when it cuts a small feather – or the screw area will suffer. This is the most common way to deform the screw hole, cutting too much too quickly, and either the handles bend as you close them or the screw hole widens to accommodate the excessive pressure. Scissors loosen as they age, but it’s actually deformity of the screw hole that causes all the extra play – rather than wear. If you are tying a lot of large flies or the materials are quite tough it’s better to switch to a larger scissor with the backbone to sheer through the material with less strain on the fulcrum area.

Today, Bulk and habit were the root of my problems, as I kept reaching for the fine point trout scissor when I should have used a larger set with serrated blades. Serration is always useful when trimming hair as the fibers cannot slide out of the scissors ahead of the cut, the fibers tend to catch in the serration and ensures everything gets trimmed proper. Note that this is both good and bad, as the serrated scissor will grip and make absolute cuts – and you can remove too much material if you’re unused to them.

The Loon Ergo serrated scissors are a 4.5” (powder-coated stainless steel) scissor with superb tips and a light serration down one of the blades. The large finger holes, hence the “ergonomic” designator, are quite comfortable for extended tying sessions, and there is enough “beef” in the scissor frame to snap them closed without feeling the handles flex – which is a good tell that the scissor is over capacity on the cut.

At $15 the price is really cheap, prompting me to order a second set for use with conventional tackle, trimming braid and heavy monofilament where that serrated edge will prove extra useful..

As my tying room is currently bereft of carpet due to a “slab leak” and having to jack hammer the concrete pad beneath for the repair, I should mention that I managed to drop these scissors on their points and bent both tips in a dramatic fashion. Stainless steel is a soft steel, so I was able to restore the points to their original shape by dragging them across my vise barrel several times. This is not a failure of design or an inherent weakness in the quality of the product – rather this is what happens when good scissors and fine tips meet an immovable object.

Great scissor for a great price – and with the large finger holes even the hammy handed should find these comfortable.

Note: This is an unsolicited quick review of this product. The scissor was purchased at full retail from a shop.

Classic Bamboo GETS New life as Chinese imitate Tapers

While the Trump administration’s negotiators fence with their counterparts in the Chinese delegation, the issues under discussion may be closer to home than we suspect. Intellectual property and copyright infringement are hot topics as American companies protest copycat products flooding markets and brands suffer accordingly. Fly fishing’s high priced rod market may be the latest victim in the trade war as a similar blitz of products may be aimed at the classic bamboo fly rod market …

The fishing industry has seen cheap imitations before and they’ve made little headway against our classic rod smiths, but this time may be different, as they’re copying all the classic tapers from the Grand Masters of bamboo, and are pushing them onto eBay at a fraction of traditional costs.

On the one hand, if the tapers are identical to the hoary and ancient bamboo master of antiquity, this gives us the opportunity to cast and fish something potentially quite special, and as the finished product is only $150 per set of dual-tip bamboo blanks, makes the experiment really affordable.

On the other hand, knowing the avaricious nature of many of those wishing to exploit an already high priced market for classic fly rods, we’re likely to see these show in the restoration market, given how easy it would be to pass a newer blank of a classic rod, “… refinished Payne, it’s a steal at any price!” – and only the experts in bamboo construction able to identify which is the contemporary milled blank, and which is the bonafide article.

Currently eBay is hosting bamboo blanks for Thomas & Thomas 7’6” 2/3wt, H.L. Leonard (Taper 804) 8’ 4wt,Phillipson Pacemaker 8’ 3” , F.E. Thomas 7’ 6”, H.L. Leonard (Baby Catskill) 7’ 2/3 wt, P. Young (Parabolic) 8’ 5wt, Orvis Midge 7’ 6” 3/4 wt, and Orvis Superfine 6’ 6” 5/6wt, Payne (Taper 97) 7’ 4wt, Garrison (Taper 206) 7’6” 4wt, Winston 8052 8’ 5wt, Heddon Black Beauty (#17) 9’ 5/6wt, and many more tapers and makers including Hardy and Powell.

Each set of bamboo blanks range from $95 to about $150, so cost is negligible compared to contemporary pricing, and only the product itself remains unknown. With friendly feedback so easy to manufacture it’s prudent to eyeball what’s offered, yet purchasing the blanks without confirming construction, tapers, and quality, makes this purchase fraught with risk.

There’s not a lot of detail on the seller other than their location (China) and past sales, and from their feedback log it appears the blanks have only been selling for about one year. Prior feedback mentions feathers, boas, and a sprinkling of wooden items, so the tie to the fly fishing industry remains, but with a different suite of products.

While the geography is friendly to the notion these are Tonkin cane, the pictures offered aren’t of high enough quality to confirm any of the claims of the seller. so caveat emptor remains the watchword.

Classic rod collectors would be wise to study up on which glues and finishes are consistent with old rods – and what methods exist to detect animal glues from modern epoxy, as any recently restored classic will resemble the Chinese imitation in all but hollowing and construction … all of which are hidden in the final fit and finish.

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Category Archives: product

Petitjean Bobbin follow-on post

Part 1 of 2: Bobbin Reviews: Lots of Options, Plenty of Price Points, and a Glimpse of the Future

Fly Tying Materials in the Wild: Vernille and Ultra Chenille

Just a follow up on the below NYMO post

Us old tiers cried bitterly on the news of its demise

A Big Step for a Wading Angler, Contemplating the Move to an Angling Kayak

My war against the 25 pack continues

In Spring a Young Man’s thoughts turn to Cloudy Water

Loon ERGO Serrated Scissor Review

Classic Bamboo GETS New life as Chinese imitate Tapers