Category Archives: product

I just need regular rubber, the creek provides the Sticky

I was doing the math on the current set of hip boots and rather than pooch out the lower lip claiming I’d been used cruelly, I realized that my seasons are a bit different than most…

Hodgeman Wadewell II Hipboots after two seasons The left boot was taking on water from both heels and soles, I’d managed to wear through both, and the right boot was slurping water through both the uppers and heels, and all of this accomplished in two seasons.

Figure 100 days fishing per season – and the average trip walking distance of four miles, I’d managed to put nearly 1000 miles of streambed on these boots in an abnormally short time.

Federal statistics claim the average angler does about 9 trips per year – so that elevates me to the Truly Awesome Timewaster percentile.

These were the Hodgman Wadewell II hip boots which boasted an uncharacteristically good fit on my size 12 feet. All those miles were done in “street” socks – and nary a blister.

Hodgman Bantam Soles I liked them so much I bought two more pair; one identical to the original, and a second lighter set – the Hodgman Bantam weight Nylon, featuring an identical instep and sole as the Wadewell variant.

Two sets allow me to use one pair in the waters with confirmed invasives, and the second pair for water where they haven’t been confirmed (but are likely present). As mentioned in my “Where’s the Beef” post, most of the biologists are keeping watchful eyes on the blue ribbon watersheds, I won’t know what’s latched onto me for some time.

If you’re fishing more than 25 times a year you’re in the “high risk” angler category. You fish so often your gear may not dry thoroughly. Additional pairs lowers the risk somewhat – and as the Hodgman Bantam’s were only $35 (regularly $53), it’s cheap insurance considering the miles I’ll pack on those soles.

… and welded boot foot construction; no tongues, laces, and tomfoolery that can trap critters in those uppers. It’s no proof against invasives, but it lowers my “host” coefficient a bit compared to detachable wading shoes. I’m not lulled into thinking Vibram soles and conventional laces are an improvement.

The water I fish may be forlorn, odiferous, and forgotten – but I take mighty good care of it just the same.

Tags: Hodgeman Wadewell II, Hodgman Bantam weight Nylon, hip boots, waders, rubber soled wading boots, invasive species, brownlining, Vibram soles, fishing statistics

Danville’s Monocord discontinued

RIP Danville 3/0 A couple hundred thousand fellows will be gnashing teeth yet again – compliments of the Danville Chenille Company and their decision to discontinue their venerable 3/0 Monocord.

There are plenty of finer threads so it’s no catastrophe, but it’s a constant reminder that both natural and synthetics are prone to vanish without notice.

When Belding-Cortiscelli abandoned NYMO thread fly tiers were left with little other than sewing thread. Danville’s Monocord became the heir apparent as it shared some of the characteristics of the NYMO brand, namely tying flat.

NYMO has returned in recent years as a beading thread, but the smallest size available is “A”.

With the emphasis on the 6/0, 8/0, and 12/0 threads available today, the older and larger Monocord was collateral damage. I’m sure the salt water crowd will be in tears, as larger hooks and rough conditions lends itself to larger threads.

For those eager to lay in a goodly supply, grab what’s on the shelves – they’ve already ceased production.

(via Flyfishingnotes.com)

Tags: Monocord thread, Danville Chenille Company, 3/0 thread, Belding-Cortiscelli Thread Company, Nymo thread, nylon thread, fly tying thread

Reykjavik Whale Watching, the Old Spice sailor does slasher flick

Most of our angling rituals could be construed as a preamble for a good “slasher” film – starting with the pre-dawn rending of eggs and pig-flesh, and ending with the post-sunset rending of whatever-is-still-open.

PETA regards us as bestial vestiges of a bygone era and likely went “halfsies” on the big screen variant with Greenpeace – and it appears the fishermen image will be taking quite the hit in the forthcoming 13 sequels..

Gone is all the good press gained via countless “Old Spice” commercials, and you may want to list “hobbies” next to religion and politics on the forbidden topic list for the light n’ airy cocktail scene…

The skipper looks crusty enough, the babes are comely – but my money’s on the white whale … if there is one.

Reykjavik, no country for young emo’s.

Tags: Reykjavik Whale Watching, slasher films, PETA, emo, white whale, Old Spice, prequel, grody old guys, Greenpeace, whaling

Bandals, the next great stride in outdoor wading gear

While the crowd eschews felt soles and impresses each other insisting, “I wore rubber back when rubber wasn’t cool “ – note we’ve gone back to the drawing board to re-invent “no-tech” wading…

Gone are those silly laces that neatly strain invasives into your uppers, ditto for the lace eyelet area that traps all the critters, and we’ve reengineered the felt sole to dry faster and grip better with the debut of the Bruce Lee Kung Fu® “Fast Drying Featherweight Sole.” The special Fast Drain© Open Toe design allows you to leave the little bastards where they found you, rather than hosting unwanted hitchhikers.

SB_Wading_Shoe

It beats conventional hi-tech, hi-cost wading shoes as they lack the light weight and positive adhesion offered by the Kung Fu® gripping surface, and are conspicuously absent the deft accent of alloy buckle and fetching faux-leather strapping system.

Mine are so comfortable I wear them around the house – and judging by the many looks received from passing motorists, I’d say these will rival Crocs as the next great stride in outdoors chic.

Big unkempt knobby toes not included.

Tags: Bandals, Crocs, wading shoes, felt soles, Kung Fu, Bruce Lee,

Simpler just to rub your face in the gut pile

I've got Salmon SkinIf the goal is to touch up the eyes I’d think grabbing the carcass and sawing it across your face would brighten your complexion better. Enough scales drying delicately around your brow and you’re guaranteed to be the toast of the gravel bar.

If they ever open the season in California, thoughts of conservation should be tossed aside; stick it, kill it, rub what’s left of your face, then grind the leftovers into the gravel …

Made from Hokkaido (chum) salmon, Japan being a poster child for fisheries management – usually sending vast factory ships to manage other countries fish – much to the glee of its natives …

… as Hokkaido Salmon are endangered, it makes perfect sense to pile onto an already diminished species, as success means more homes closer to the waters edge – absent pesky enviro-folks lobbying to the contrary.

… no mention of rubbing a big fillet of farmed fish on your face, likely because the orange dye hasn’t set, leaving you looking like your tongue after an OJ Pixie Stix.

It's all the rage back east

I could keep a straight face long enough to claim you looked radiant – if I saved a few fish in the process.

tags: Madonna, salmon eye care, Hokkaido salmon, California, salmon cosmetics, Pixie Stix

Singlebarbed’s Gear Review, the Redington RS4 – Rise 5/6

I’ve had the luxury of testing a Redington RS4 9′ #6 the last couple of weeks, complimented by a matching Redington Rise 5/6 reel. I managed to paint some algae on it from a half dozen tepid backwaters, including the Little Stinking and Sporting Creek.

Redington RS4 9' #6

Now with the rod shiny and scrubbed with anti-invasive bleach, I’ll have to return it.

… but not before passing on some commentary.

Action:

“Crisp” covers the first two sections, and immovable describes the last two. It’s a six weight rod in name only – as the rear half is nearly inflexible. It casts a WF7F with equal ease, and a WF8 doesn’t even flex the third segment.

RS4 reel seat detail Fast action rods have the bulk of the flex contained in the top third or top half of the blank, but the RS4 is an extreme case typified by a club-like lower half. All rods should demonstrate some flex regardless of action type, and the RS4 was much too stiff in the lower two sections to see real deflection. As a result, it delivers the line with great authority, too much for delicate work – it’s bestial characteristic better suited for slamming deer hair bass bugs or waterlogged streamers into a stiff breeze.

Which was ideal for the creeks I subjected it to …

Bead head nymphs hit the water with terrific force – a reminder to back off the delivery stroke for fear of the ensuing fountain of water and suddenly empty creek …

Outfitted with a ST7S it can deliver a bead chain enhanced shad fly in excess of 110 feet, yet I still couldn’t confirm whether the third section was participating in all that double hauling frenzy.

I like fast, but this taper ended after the top half – yielding a wading staff from the bottom two segments.

RS4 Finish Detail

Spline Test:

Peering under the hood reveals the engineering detail of rod construction, and I was disappointed in the results of the spline test.

Simply put, a graphite rod is built by wrapping a fixed length of graphite scrim (fabric) onto a steel mandrel. When the appropriate number of layers are applied, the material is trimmed lengthwise, wrapped and baked into the final blank.

The start of the wraps and the end of the wrap create two points with an extra layer of graphite compared to the rest of the blank – these are called the major and minor spline(s).

The major spline is typically the outside wrap – the last wind of fabric before it was cut, and the minor spline is the first wrap of fabric – but it’s buried deep in the blank so it appears less pronounced.

Laying a rod section onto a flat table, you can roll the edge of your hand in the middle of the rod to feel both splines – the rod actually “jumps” in your hand as the two “edges” of extra material roll underneath.

All wrapped fabric rods have this phenomenon, both fiberglass and graphite, bamboo rods usually lack a spline, as they’re constructed of (usually) six hexagonal strips glued together, therefore lacking any “extra” turns of material.

Guides are traditionally mounted opposite the major spline. This makes the “top” of the rod contain the spline, and as it’s the stiffest section of the rod, and the “outside” of a rod bends further than the inside when flexed, it’s the side with the most resistance to bending.

It provides power.

Cheap mass produced rods pay no attention to spline alignment, mounting the guides wherever they feel like – or however the rod segment lands in the wrapping harness. First tier rod makers typically align the spline and guides to ensure a predictable action.

Redington’s guides are mounted without regard to the spline of each rod segment, and each of the four sections has the guides mounted in a different angle to the spline.

When casting the rod you’d be hard pressed to feel the difference of spline alignment and guides. Mechanically, the rod is reacting differently on each segment and is twisting to compensate for the poor alignment robbing the casting stroke of energy.

A fast action #6 with reserve power – mounted properly with the spline of all four sections on the top, would make this rod a true #7, as the spline adds additional reserve power and resistance to flexing.

Finish and Fittings:

Black finished dual foot guides complemented by a single carbide stripping guide, offered a traditional look and feel. Sturdy reel seat hardware accented with the neo-standard graphite spacer – and a nice broad rounded thread to tighten the reel seat. The wide thread resists grit from causing the reel to bind on dismount – a nice “fishing” touch – as we excel at putting reels in harsh environments.

Outstanding cork with little filler – a rarity in today’s rods.  eight 3/4″ rings used versus the traditional thirteen 1/2″ cork segments.

The finish was applied thickly, with all decals imbedded under a blanket of epoxy. Small dots marked on the blank for guide alignment got additional coats – and the male end of each ferrule has epoxy extending down the blank for an additional two inches, a bit of overkill considering.

This “decal” coat was abrupt and noticeable on each rod segment, almost giving the notion of a sag in the finish. It’ll be a “”turn off” to those that delight in a rod’s appearance – and assists in stiffening an already unyielding rod.

Rise 5/6 Front

Reel:

The Rise reel was absolutely delightful. Solid construction and good craftsmanship on both tolerances and finish. The drag knob was large and accessible and turned easily even with muddy or damp fingers.

It’s a mid arbor reel with both sides ventilated for weight reduction.

The holes on the rear of the reel are small preventing dangling vest attachments from getting into the mechanism once the reel is brought into your chest, and the backplane thick enough to avoid the “cheese grater” effect should a finger get into the wrong area on a hot fish.

Disc drag with easy access for lubrication and maintenance, and a pleasing muted click to alert you to line paying out.

Suggested retail is $156.00 (Spool $80).

RS4 Case with visible reel

Case:

It’s a clever case design allowing for the reel to stay attached when stored away. It makes for one less item to forget in pre-trip planning – as the mylar window plainly displays the reel attached to the rod.

Summary:

This is a clubby workhorse rod – not some gossamer reed that will assist your posing in the parking lot. Fit and finish are acceptable, with the notable exceptions of superb reel seat and quality cork, but finish and engineering (spline mismatch) are not Tier 1 quality.

Considering that I fish with rods whose trim is painted on the blank, that shouldn’t give you much pause ..

It’s a beastial fast rod whose action is limited to the first two segments, the butt sections are inflexible and clubby. You’ll treat the rod accordingly – no wincing when you yank a stuck dry fly from an overhanging branch, it’s the kind of rod you loan an in-law without regard for its safety, whose butt is perched in sand and water while wolfing a sandwich.

You’ll toss it into the truck bed fully rigged, and if it bangs the bottom of the boat when you shift your weight, you won’t worry about any nick or blemish.

Crisp action bordering on the insensitive, quality accessories yet only average finish quality, it’s a yeoman’s rod – something to learn with and loan to a friend once you upgrade.

TC’s test of the same rod offers additional insight.

Tags: Redington RS4 Review, Redington rod, Redington Rise 5/6, fly rod, fly reel, cork, round threaded reel seat, scrim, epoxy finish, rod spline, mass produced fly rods, Chinese fly rod

Waders Bamboo Rods and Radiator hoses

Rescue Tape RollsFew items are as indispensable to fishermen as duct tape, but it too may have succumbed to advanced helical technology and high modulus with the debut of Rescue Tape.

• Incredible 700 PSI Tensile Strength!
• Insulates 8,000 Volts per layer!
• Withstands 500° F Degrees of heat!
• Remains flexible to -85° F! (-60° C)

Wader Repair will never be the same, with its ability to insulate me from lightning, climate change, and the hoary Northern sub-zero temperatures, my only complaint is it doesn’t taste like red licorice.

… hell, I can even tie flies with it.

Application is child’s play, merely wrap your soggy tuna sandwich in six or seven feet of Rescue Tape, and if you break a rod, spring a leak, or need a quick tourniquet, discard the sandwich and take a half dozen quick wraps around the offending limb …

tags: wader repair, rescue tape, radiator hose, fishing, sandwich

When seven minutes buys you a couple extra decades

Us semi-pro eBay reel collectors are occasional victims of unchecked avarice – greed mostly. The pictures omit the missing screw, the bent rim, and the seller that’s hoping you won’t notice an unsightly wobble or loose spool.

That’s because we’ve got visions of Sugarplums dancing – the missing 3 1/4″ Hardy Princess Multiplier that we’ve lusted after for a decade has finally shown itself, and the “Buy it Now” button looms large and vibrant.

We open the box later to find a hint of malice – then gash ourselves for trusting anyone from Connecticut, especially with a seller ID like “Pwned.”

Fixing these aging warriors is a labor of love for me, akin to tying flies – with each scratch and wobble telling of great deeds and greater pratfalls, all in the name of fishing.

The spool latch mechanism is one of the few moving parts on a fly reel that is prone to eventual failure, yet so simplistic that it requires little more than a staple or hairpin to give a reel another hundred years of life.

The two styles of Hardy's (SA) system reel

Above are the two styles of System reels made by Hardy for Scientific Anglers. The black plastic center cap is the older series and had a poorly designed latch mechanism made from plastic – which failed early and often.

The second series replaced the plastic latch with the traditional aluminum cover and latch assembly common to all other Hardy models – a time tested design offering a greater lifespan.

The Plastic latch, pull the feet flat to add tension

Failure of the plastic assembly means the “feet” have weakened and need to be returned to their original shape.

Remove the cap to expose the plastic latch underneath. The two feet at the base of the plastic latch press against the cover to give the “spring” effect. Once the feet weaken and achieve a shape matching the interior of the cover – they’ll allow the spool to slide right off the center spindle. To repair the issue, merely pull the two feet back into a straight line as shown above, that’ll return it to a “spring” (as it’s pressed against the interior of the cap cover) and allow the spool to be mounted or dismounted while retaining latch integrity.

Old Style SA latch It’s a bad design, plastic just doesn’t have the longevity, and fatigues much quicker than the surrounding metal.

It appears wrapping some fly tying thread at the neck would also offer additional resistance to the feet being deformed – and for the terminal case, perhaps a replacement could be crafted from the stiff plastic of a pill bottle top.

The metal capped Hardy latches are a much sturdier design, but even metal springs weaken over time and have to be replaced.

The latch itself is a bar of aluminum or steel that’s been riveted to the spool. A small “V” of spring steel lies adjacent the bar and its contact with the interior of the cap provides the spring holding the latch tight against the center spindle.

Metal latch costruction

If the spring breaks it can be replaced with a similar “V” made from a hairpin or a spring steel staple from a heavy cardboard box.

Depending on the width of the flat replacement wire – you may have to grind it down a bit to fit under the aluminum cap.

Most of the time you can simply spread the existing spring outward, giving yourself another couple of decades before you’ll have to repeat the process.

Despite all the advances in reel design and materials, the latch mechanism is still quite simplistic – and over time the spring material will lose its vigor and need some coaxing. Contemporary large arbor reels are no different – and cracking open one of these engineering marvels can reveal equally simplistic mechanisms that’ll be prone to the same longevity issues.

The old Hardy’s use brass screws to hold the cap assembly in place, and these deform really easily. Make sure your screwdriver is sized to get complete purchase on the slot, if it’s too big it’ll shred the screw instantly leaving a ridge of razor sharp metal to greet them fingers.

Cartography be damned

Should make some feel less conspicuous, although ordering one in a logger bar – you hope your voice doesn’t break mid sentence…

 The Blueliner brew

Its got a rarified pedigree, being made from glacier ice that crumbles off the continental shelf due to climate change, which makes the bottle bobbing in your wake testament to your domination of the watershed – scourge of the pristine…

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Unlike Bell Bottoms this kind of tacky is a good thing

It was a crash course in paraffin, beeswax, petroleum distillates, herbal additives, and tropical fruit – none of which I’d anticipated with such a mundane bit of research.

I’ve gone through three sports, two industries, and a half dozen hobbies – hoping to find something special, and found that the ignoble Beeswax remains right up there with the tackiest waxes known. I found better, but the toilet ring from the local hardware store is still among the top waxes available.

As described in an earlier post, wax usage is on the decline – limited to those geezers like myself that learned prior to the debut of specialty fly tying threads and pre-waxed nylon. In those days small thread was size “A” – and most of it came from the sewing trade.

Part of the candidate pool

Desirable characteristics include being soft enough to use with materials other than thread, non-staining and colorless so it doesn’t change the material, non-oxidizing – so you can leave the cap off and the material doesn’t harden, and cheap as dirt – so you can indulge in obscene rituals without breaking the bank.

10 different surf board waxes and three different temperatures later, it’s safe to conclude that feet and flies don’t share any similarity. Surf wax is much harder and less tacky than Beeswax and is only a bit softer than candle wax. It has a light “tack” to the touch, is cheap – less than $2 per block, and is available with the best range of scents; Mango, Banana, Bubblegum – but no Nightcrawler or Salmon Egg, which would’ve tilted my research instantly.

While disappointing, it only whetted my appetite, knowing that somebody somewhere had a malleable wax with enough surface sticky to make fly tiers happy.

Casting and the mold making “lost wax” process uses a repair wax that’s soft and somewhat sticky, sold by the pound it fit only the malleable and cheap criteria.

40 Rivers mentioned bow wax, used to lubricate bow strings; it’s soft enough but it’s dual purpose – to adhere bow string filaments into a single strand and to lubricate the pulleys and gears used in modern compound bows. There’s many different kinds and was the sole industry distinguishing between sticky and tacky.

Bow strings (both crossbow and compound bows) are made from a diverse mix of fibers, including many synthetics like Dyneema. Some waxes use a mixture of wax and silicon, others use Beeswax blends designed for older bows. Silicon suggested even more possibilities, being the dominant component of liquid dry fly floatants and many common pastes. A fellow that ties mostly dry flies might want to yield some sticky in lieu of a wax with water resistance and minor floatation qualities.

Bow wax is worthy of additional study.

Magician’s use tacky wax for palming cards and other magic tricks. Like bows and surfboards, dozens of different varieties exist – each touted as stickier than most or stickiest. Small balls of this semi-transparent white wax are concealed in the magician’s palm, allowing him to press the hand against the deck and remove cards.

These waxes are perfect for traditional thread work, quite sticky to the touch and will enable a thread to load considerable fur without assistance. As the wax sticks to everything; human skin, paper, fur, beer cans, etc., and is colorless and odorless – it’s perfect for fly tying.

… I suspect it’s stolen from another industry however, and as additional candidates were delivered the Holy Grail became clearer…

Museum wax.

Department 56 Tacky wax, Museum quality Designed to attach precious artifacts to glass display cases without staining or adding residue. Also called “Miniature Wax” – used by those hobbyists that delight in recreating the battle of Waterloo with lead soldiers, spending months building battle scenes complete with miniature foliage and regiments of soldiers, all of which is secured to the base substrate with small balls of semi-transparent white wax.

A white wax that sticks to absolutely everything …

Department 56 “Tacky Wax” was one of two finalists. Department 56 is known for miniaturized Christmas villages and provides a complete line of miniature building materials for hobbyists. Retail is $2.50 for about 1-1.5 ounces – and can be found on eBay for less than half retail. Like all eBay items it’ll be available at many prices – some more than retail, so wait for your price to appear.

Bard's Tacky Wax, six ounces suspended by a finger Bard’s Tacky Wax is another museum grade display wax, looks identical to the Department 56 product and is extremely tacky. It’s comparable in price to the Dept 56 product, but is also available in 6 ounce tubs for about $9.50.

The picture at right shows the six ounce container suspended by the grip of the wax on my finger – plenty of tack to suit us fly tying fiends – something Beeswax was unable to reproduce …

Both are perfectly suited for fly tying. Soft and malleable allowing you to press a feather into the surface, works exceptionally well on thread (once removed from the container), and both are odorless and colorless – allowing use on white or light colored materials, and doesn’t oxidize or harden when left with the container open.

Neither are derivatives of Beeswax – as they lack the “greasy” feel at room temperature common to Overton’s and the venerable toilet ring, which are Beeswax based. Handling the wax will add “tacky” to your fingers without any apparent residue – also different than Beeswax – which adds “sticky” and visible residue.

I suspect many of the Magician’s Wax products are actually miniature wax decanted into different containers. Comforting to note that fly tying isn’t the only hobby scrounging elsewhere for materials.

I’ll decant wax from the containers and encase the ball of material in simple saran wrap, exposing half to the elements for brushing on thread, while handling the wrapped side. Simply close the wrapping around the ball when leaving on your bench so it doesn’t pick up trimmed material from the work surface.

Wax is one of those materials never made for fly tying – merely lifted from another industry and decanted into a more suitable container. Brown waxes are traditionally blends of Beeswax and other compounds, white waxes can be paraffin based or an entirely different synthetic compound.

Synthetics offer tackiness without the room temperature greasiness of Beeswax nor the slight discoloring inherent in a darker wax. If you’re dissatisfied with your current fly tying wax you might want to look into either of the above museum waxes as an alternative.