Category Archives: product

Don’t Bogart the Weed’Ez, don’t leave it adrift either

Tough Choice I can’t decide whether it’s chumming or littering, I guess I’ll leave it up to you.

“Weed’Ez” is artificial weed cover for fishermen. Plunk it into the water, and create your own navigational hazard. For merely $19.99 you can foul the propellers of your fellow fishermen, transport unwanted parasites to pristine waterways, and then get pissed and abandon it after you snag it repeatedly.

Each Weed’Ez pack includes four individual 60-inch plant clusters, which consist of three attached “stalks.” A float on top of each Weed’Ez keeps it floating upright, while a clip at the base lets the user attach a sinker for keeping the artificial plant anchored to bottom. Constructed of a tough synthetic material that won’t absorb water, Weed’Ez are tear resistant, even in the icy conditions of winter. When not in use, Weed’Ez fold up and fit into an included mesh storage bag, not much larger than a paperback novel, and light as a feather. Retailing for $19.99, Weed’Ez are portable and affordable fish attractors.

A perfect stocking stuffer for that hard to please fisherman. Remember that sound carries a great distance over water, and your trip will be shortened if you yell at your pal, “Dude, You need more Weed? I brought a ton with me..”

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Everyone in Hell is special, but some are more special than others

Ninja Golf Pond Bass Killer Golfers and Fisherman have a special Hell reserved; fishermen will burn everlasting because we took the worst the Devil offered and still enjoyed ourselves.  When Old Beelzebub froze us, we went ice fishing, when burnt – we slathered on sun block, and carried twice our beer ration – what’s coming we earned, as Lucifer does not take being mocked lightly.

Golfers share a similar fate, mainly because of them silly clothes. When the Devil sent the Torments they ran for the clubhouse, rather than endure and laugh in the face of impending doom, guzzled fruit drinks with umbrellas and laughed at new members net income.

It’s OK though, the ring of Hell reserved for us has all the fallen debutantes and wastrel heiress’s – golfers get the wino’s and porn freaks.

Want a little payback now, on this earthly plane?

Hammacher Schlemmer has the ultimate Ninja Poaching ensemble for fishermen denied them enormous bass on the 14th hole. A “water trap” iron with reel attached, the business end hidden from view in your golf bag, leaving no trace of your real intent. Wave each group through the hole while you “search” for your missing golf ball, they’ll think you’re a real sport, while you thump snot out of all them placid elitist bass.

If you want to take some home, that’s fine by me – the “Priest” is built right into the rod…any range marshal will be sympathetic as they count the number of “strokes” you’re penalized, just mark your score accordingly.

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Tools of the Trade – Part 1

Scissors designed to cut at the tip are really importantVery little is ever written about commercial fly tiers, mostly they’re a vanishing breed, due in large part to the overseas fly tying trade. Domestic production is still a cottage industry with each shop a blend of local and offshore flies.

The “Professional” fly tyer is another matter entirely, plenty of them around, although most would balk at that label. Professional isn’t about the money it’s about the time spent tying, and if you tie an hour or more daily, you’re a candidate.

Tying multiple hours a night needs to be treated like a business even if it’s a passion. You’ve outgrown that leftover, hand me down, garage sale setup you cobbled together, and aren’t willing to come to grips with what you need. Storage and tools have always been priorities for a professional tier, yet they always take a back seat to buying more materials.

Fly tiers are incapable of tying in comfort, they’ll drop $300 on chicken feathers without batting an eyelash, then sit on a stack of newspapers while tying.

The lifeblood of any serious tyer is his vise and scissors, no other tools are as important to his craft, nor have as much affect on the finished product. Vise choice is very much individualistic, with much press and opinion on the relative merits of assorted manufacturers, necessary features, and rotating gadgets.

What’s never talked about is scissors and why 95% of all fly tiers use crap.  It’s a “rogue’s gallery” of awkward potmetal scissors from India, small “pinking” shears sold in craft shops, or whatever they stole from their wife’s sewing chest.

Craft store scissors and small sewing scissors are made for women, they have small finger holes not suitable for hammy male fingers. They’re rarely available in sizes beyond 4″ in length, and despite having “fine” points, are meant to cut cloth, thread, and yarn – at the base of the scissor not at the points.

Fly shop scissors will suit a beginner fine, the $12.00 investment for a set of Dr. Slick’s doesn’t harm a new tier much, leaving him budget for the important stuff – the endless parade of materials he’ll need to build the flies.

Professional tiers need two sets of scissors; a heavy “shear” scissor for cutting great hunks of bucktail and other unruly materials, and a fine point scissor designed to cut at the tip, for the precise cuts – like clearing a hook eye of fiber.

These scissors have been available for decades, but fly tiers rarely encounter them unless they’re a surgeon or doctor. Thousands of styles of precision scissors exist in the medical community, each shape and size designed for cutting different types of tissue, and depending on the task, they’re designed to cut at the tips, base, or the entire cutting edge.

Eye surgery needs precise tips, none of the surgery slices heavy bone or thick connective tissue. Eyeball components are delicate and scissors designed for an eye surgeon are precision instruments for tiny slices. Many are available with tungsten inserts, one of the hardest steel alloys available, allowing for razor sharp edges and precise cuts. Tungsten is also one of the most brittle steel alloys, and if you catch the hook shank with an errant slice you can remove the tip of the scissors completely.

Bill Hunter of Hunter’s Angling Supplies, was the first to introduce these scissors to the tying community, he described them as “cosmetic seconds” from the medical industry, and the retail was about $100 per set. He always warned prospective owners about the tungsten inserts and how cuts should be practiced before blindly whacking away.

The trick is to slide the scissors down fibers to the point of the cut rather than push the point into the area you wished to trim. Like you will, I learned the hard way, yet it quickly becomes second nature. Scissors of this quality will allow the points inside the hook eye, which means you have to be careful, and like any med student you should practice.

Dr. Slick scissors imitate medical scissors, down to the gold colored handles. Medical scissors are not “gold colored” it’s real gold, as it’s both antiseptic and malleable it’ll eventually scrape off the stainless handles.

Medical scissors are available in a dizzying assortment of sizes, and can be purchased to accommodate the largest of hands. The smallest I would use is the 4.5″ length, it’s among the most common sizes available and like all medical scissors, has wide finger eyelets so that you aren’t having to cram big fingers into too small an opening. Surgery can last many hours, and these precision tools are designed not to be fatiguing to the user.

Buy semi-curved versus straight scissors. Semi-curved allows the tips to make the cut without your fingers and wrist obscuring the cut area. Straight scissors require the hand to be in the same plane as the cut – often that mass of fingers and wrist can get in the way of your vision, with Tungsten inserts that’s a bad thing, one careless cut and you’re pissed.

Cheap semi-curved scissors are designed for toe nails with the blade curving from base to tip, too much curvature to be really useful. Medical semi-curved scissors start their curve midway down the blade, a much gentler curvature that you will instantly prefer. (Note the accompanying pictures)

The larger “shear” scissors can be the traditional straight edge. You’ll be using it to cut big chunks of deer hair and fur off hides, where there’s little reason to be delicate or restrained. Many prefer a serrated edge on the shears as serration prevents material from sliding away from the cutting edge, these require practice as well; serrated edges cut positively everything and lack forgiveness – it’ll take some getting used to as it’s a marked difference from traditional smooth edge scissors.

The below photograph shows the Ophthalmology scissors I purchased from Bill Hunter and other medical supply houses. Each set has been used for nearly 20 years, due to their precision manufacture each will last a lifetime.

Eye Surgeon’s Scissors, and some German Stainless shears

Do the math. With precision vises costing nearly $400, there’s little to complain about, a vise is used once per fly yet the scissors are used 10-12 times per fly. I’d rather buy a vise for $300 and a set of scissors for $100, a more efficient use of hard earned coin.

Medical supply houses abound on the Internet, and if you live in a major city you can visit and paw through them to pick the length, taper, and edge that suits your tying best.

The links included in the article demonstrate some of the range of points and styles available. Each of the scissors types can be further researched once the “name” of the style you like is chosen.  “Metzenbaum” and “Iris” are consistent across the medical community, all you have to do is Google the style name to find all the variations and prices.

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All I wanted was some thread, now I have my nose pressed to the glass like a kid

All I wanted was some bulk cones of nylon thread, and a couple hours later I was engrossed in a bunch of products I never knew existed. All have possibilities for the fly tyer – especially those tiers with a sense of adventure.

Disclaimer : I haven’t seen these in person, and “thread” to the sewing industry can be “yarn” to a fly tyer – so you’ll need to eyeball these with caution.

  1. Solar Active thread – apparently the thread gets brighter when exposed to the sun, it will also change color. $31.95 for a pack of four colors. A pack contains peach (becomes hot pink), yellow (orange), peach (wine), and turquoise (blue purple).
  2. Polypropylene Thread – likely this is the yarn we’re used to seeing on the little cards. 5000 yards for $17.00, likely this will lower your flood insurance payment – buy 2 or more spools and your house will float.
  3. Glow in the Dark Thread
    FuFu’s Glow in the Dark Embroidery Thread absorbs the light around it andGlow in the Dark thread offers 15 hours of glow time.  I see this as an interesting experiment, call it “Thread that makes you go, ‘Hmmm'” Colors: Blue, Classic, Green, Orange, Pink, Purple, White, Yellow. 120 denier, 2ply (sounds like yarn) $13.95 for 1100 yards.
  4. Moonglow “Glow in the Dark” thread offers even more colors, $15.30 for 500 yards.
  5. Opalescent thread 5. Coats Iridescent Pearl Thread
    Might be an interesting ribbing material, at 40 wt it’s too thick to actually tie the fly with, but it may have additional value as a rib, akin to the many uses of wire. 200 yd. spool. Thread is 60% nylon core, 40% coated polyester. 1 Spool – $2.75

    6. I was surprised to find NYMO thread still around. Back in the 1970’s NYMO was the defacto flytying thread used by absolutely everyone. When they stopped making it the Danville and Monocord empire was born. It has been reborn as a “beading” thread for jewelry making, the smallest size available is “00” (2/0)- suitable for larger flies.

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I get 5% more distance, and 35% less fingertip – not a fair trade

I’ve been pounding the Sharkskin line over a month now, and lately it has been giving better than it’s receiving. Buyers need to understand this line bites, and I’m not kidding.

Another quality rope burn compliments of Sharkskin

This is my “trigger” finger after 5 hours of nymphing. Nothing heavy, just 300 minutes of stripping running line across my now tender flesh.

It’s a first class rope burn, painful enough so that you’d grimace if you needed to keep fishing – and would juggle the line onto other fingers to lessen the pain.

I haven’t seen any mention of this phenomenon in their advertising, but the 3M engineers are very much aware of the issue.

It is hard on fingers though, in applications that require a lot of casting and stripping. We recommend finger protection…

The idea of wearing protection on my trigger finger defeats the purpose entirely. The line is draped on that finger so I feel the slightest tap and can react with a hook set. After 300 minutes fishing, I’m liable to yell when I set hook, but it won’t be “Fish On” – more like “F**k Me!”

Bad idea, but great for the makers of “Phone Fingers” – they should sell snot out of the product as a result.

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Better read this before it’s recalled

IGFA tippet record? (They don’t test the fish)I may have to recall this post, as it’s getting fashionable to do so.

Most of you have seen the ongoing issues of lead paint in toys, and the numerous recalls that have set the toy industry on its collective ear.

The latest issue with “Aqua Dots” involves the surface coating metabolizing into the “date-rape” drug, gamma-hydroxy-butyrate when ingested.

As a fisherman, and well known for lacking both morals and principals, I’m thinking I may be able to turn this to my advantage. Aqua-Dots are small beads, and bead head flies are wildly popular for all species of gamefish, what better than to slap a couple on a hook shank and go for a IGFA tippet record?

I’m assuming that if a 420 lb Blue Marlin eats enough of these, he’ll be docile as hell and may even swim towards the boat to be petted. 4 lb test may be enough to land this drugged beast, with me the “toast of the Florida Panhandle” as a result.

I’m a sick man – but you knew that already.

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I’m eligible but I’ll take the path less traveled

Wii fishing controllerWill that be paper or plastic, Sir?

That “magic moment” happened to me a couple years ago, and in one stroke you’re removed from the ranks of “eligible bachelors” and inserted in your rightful place, “old middle aged guys.”

Watching my peers fight it off is a bit expected and mostly comical; the endless parade of fast two seater convertibles, the “Grecian Formula” gambit, and Botox everything.

It gets a bit scary listening to two erstwhile “normal” guys talking about “mango-aloe-tofu” face peels, but this is California – so I take it in stride.

I’m tempted to interject, “Guys, Botox your gut, ’cause even if the 19 year old’s are giving it away, they still hate fat, balding guys with sweaty palms…” – but I don’t, I pretend I didn’t notice – pour my coffee, and run like hell.

I’m taking the path less traveled. I’m going to sit at home with the gut flowing comfortably over the belt and pound snot out of virtual fish. Botox might be an option, but I’m thinking I might inject it in my wrist, so I can throw them tight loops, like when I was younger.

Christmas is enroute, and maybe this Wii thing has legs.

I’m scratching my head over the accompanying items; “fishing rope” is obviously fly line, but why would they insist on a 50mm plastic fish?

Is that somehow going to convince me I’m really fishing? If that’s the case, don’t include a damn thing, as most of the time all I catch is a cold. Beat the kids off is more my speed, perhaps torment the cat a bit…

Us fishermen can’t ever look at our sport through the eyes of someone who doesn’t fish, we lost that ability when we got hooked, but it’s times like this that make me wonder…

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Balance restored to the Universe, Pebble finished fly line available

Scientific Anglers does ridges I’ve always viewed fly line purchases as a necessary evil. Choices are limited to color and taper, available from a handful of companies marketing small variances in a similar product.

Advertising distinguishes the vendors more than performance and whether it’s the Volkswagen or the Porsche chosen, performance gain is small compared to price increase.

I was introduced to textured fly lines in 1985, at the time my home stream was Hat Creek, which was an equal mixture of “spring creek” slow water and traditional broken water angling. Most of the guides I fished with used a Chancellor Chalkstream, produced by the English fly line company, Masterline.

Each fellow had his own reasons, some liked the neutral gray color, some claimed the flotation was better, others preferred the genteel taper – all of them could agree that the “pebble” finish offered some small advantages over traditional fly lines.

My preference for textured fly lines led me to test a Scientific Anglers Sharkskin fly line for the last two weeks. It is a “ridged” finish not imbedded spheres like the old Masterline.

The benefits of the ridged surface drew me to this style of line years ago, as it doesn’t retain contact with the guides like a traditional line, rather it skips from ridge to ridge – akin to a fast boat in choppy seas. With less resistance or friction to paying out line, you will see some small distance improvement, more importantly it’s easier to mend or flip slack from the rod tip and keep your fly drag free.

Friction is your enemy when flipping slack to a dry fly drift, if it cannot pull from the rod, then it will pull the fly side of the line, yanking the fly with it.

I tested the Sharkskin with an older Scientific Angler line, a Cortland 444 floating line, and my last Chancellor Chalkstream line, the SA and Cortland lines were unused, and the Masterline had a decade of service on it.

Differences:

1) The Sharkskin line is the most supple of all of the lines tested, it is markedly limp. That’s a positive when stopping your cast high to induce a puddle of slack for a long dry fly drift, as limp means more line falls closer to the fly – it’s able to fit more coils in the same space.

It’s a negative when you have a bundle of running line at your feet, as it will draw knots easier. The stiffer lines will draw the knot less tight due to resistance. I picked up snarls in waste high grass from all the lines tested, at approximately the same frequency.

2) The ridged surface of the line gives it a matte finish, not shiny or wet looking like traditional smooth lines. The SA marketing material mentions, “the complete elimination of fly line ‘flash’…” – my experience testing suggests this is largely true, it was one of the reasons we fished the Chancellor Chalkstream in the technical water of Hat Creek, whether it’s ridges or pebbles the refractive qualities of this line are much diminished.

3) The Sharkskin line is ‘dry’ to the touch even when fishing. It’s not slick or moist like a traditional line, it doesn’t slip through your fingers easily, and isn’t greasy. Like the snake guides your fingers are contacting the high points, the water is in the recesses below – so a sudden hook set will not pull the line out of your fingers – something we’ve all seen occasionally.

4) You get audio feedback to stripping the line, so you can set the proper tempo without looking at anything other than where you want to fling it next. I like this feature as I’m constantly looking elsewhere at fish, bugs, and rises.

Noise Level

A single or double haul sounds like your fingers sliding down the neck of a guitar, and if you’re unaccustomed to this you may be discomforted. For us Masterline junkies – we’ve listened to “fingernails on a chalkboard” for years, this is much less evil.

Rough finish makes a noisy line and if you’ve never used one you may not like it. A double haul sounds as described, a “Wheet, Wheet” sound from the ridges screaming over the snake guides. High pitched, but not overly uncomfortable.

All that noise is abrasion. If you are using cheap snake guides or the “Japanned” black snake guides that were popular, you’ll be tearing them up. Yes, pebbles and ridges will shorten the life of snake guides, but only the cheap ones. Standard chromed snake guides are unaffected as chrome is an extremely hard surface. Older rods, especially vintage bamboo rods – with non chrome guides or whose chrome is sloughing off should not be used with this line.

I built some rods using the sneaky black snakes – figuring I could stealth up to large trout and club them. I replaced them after about five years of Masterline usage, as they had been sawn halfway through. I have to assume likewise for a Sharkskin.

Floatation:

The line floated well but there was little to distinguish it from contemporary fly lines. Coiled running line still sank at your feet and the tip appeared to be above water – even with the 40lb Maxima butt section I use. No, it won’t support a bead headed nymph, but none of the manufacturers can make that claim. It was vastly superior to the old Masterline as they sank no matter what was on the end of the line. It did not appear to ride higher in the water per advertising, it was comperable to the other lines in this regard.

Color

I tested the bright yellow green flavor of Sharkskin (available in a somber gray as well) and had no issues. This morning I was using the color as a strike indicator while fishing for bluegill. The bright yellow color is stark and visible in morning’s half light and the tip of the fly line was all that I needed to see the bass and bluegill inhale the sinking nymph.

I have used all colors of fly line in the past, and am of the opinion that color does not matter. Most fish are looking up and the line will appear black in contrast to the bright orb of the sun.

Sharkskin Taper guide

Sharkskin lines are only available in weight forward taper. This is unfortunate because I prefer double taper for my fishing. Most of the issues I had with the line were due to the weight forward component, not the line physical properties or construction.

Lawn testing with the WF-5F suggests it is a double taper until 14 feet of fly line is out of the tip, after that the weight forward taper is noticeable on the cast. Assuming a 10 foot leader, it gives you a 24′ range where it is delicate – this is fine for pocket water dry fly fishing where both distances and drifts are short.

The line is good at distance as well – where the weight forward component truly shines – punching a fly into a breeze or flinging the 60 foot dry fly at some spooky critter. It’s the in-between portion that has that heavy weight forward issue; a 35-45  foot cast where the entire belly is out of the rod tip, you don’t want to shoot anything and badly need a graceful landing. The Sharkskin line was traditional in this respect – heavy and ungraceful – putting the fly into the water too fast and with much more impact than I wanted.

That is a weight forward problem, not related to the Sharkskin at all.

In summary, I like the new line as it offers some distinct advantages over the traditional smooth fly line. Suggested retail is around the $100 dollar mark, with competitive products about 30% cheaper. For the difference in price you’ll get 6-8 feet of additional shoot, the ability to mend and add slack with less effort, and a positive grip on a dry line.

I would recommend that you cast one before buying just to test your attenuation to noise. It’s likely the first thing you’ll notice about the line and you may not care for it. Most fly shops will accommodate your testing a line on one of their rods, just ask.

If this was available in double taper I would be reaching for my piggy bank.

Most fly lines will last a decade or better with even marginal treatment. It always sounds more expensive than it works out to be, and considering the last of the Masterlines are now $135, this is cheap. I’m down to my last Chalkstream, so I’ll  likely pick up a couple to cover me for the next twenty years.

Update: This line is rough on the stripping finger. A sustained 6-7 hour nymph outing can produce visible damage and increased sensitivity on the finger that the line is being stripped over.  My fingers have fair callous and are not overly pampered, last week’s outing is still visible on my forefinger after a week without touching the line.

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Evacuation with style, no need to fight congested freeways, just drive into the lake

It's like Cleopatra's Barge, only noisier I think we’re outnumbered. I keep looking for guys that gnaw their own arm off while trapped in the wilderness with naught but a dull buck knife, and I’m coming up empty.

I find  a virtual cornucopia of Glam-per articles replete with stunning gear, stunning women, and equally stunning price tags. Are we simply the last of the “old fools” that sleep on hard ground, unwilling to admit that the horse has given way to the horseless carriage?

Thanks for bloody sharing, I could’ve been eating microwaved steak all this time instead of warming a can of beans gripped in rusty pliers.

Palacial accomodations fit for a Glamper Here’s the latest, the Hydra-Terra motorhome, designed for the conspicuous overconsumer that wants to drive to the lake, then drive in the lake. The perfect vehicle to evacuate your luxurious villa due to an encroaching firestorm.

Available in the low 800’s, the featured model is $1.2 million, cheap at any price.

 

Just enough time for a tidbit

Tells everything but the real story My raw unbridled envy with the electronics available to the bass boat crowd has me  attempting to reproduce that functionality for the “old school” fly fisherman.

My goal is unclear, something less than burdening myself so I sink like a stone with a misstep wading, and something more than licking my finger and holding it skyward.

How about a watch that reads and analyzes atmospheric data so it can tell you the wrong time to go fishing?

I figure them solunar tables are akin to weather forecasting, occasionally right, but never something more than a gamble.

Altimeter, barometric pressure, even graphs your vertical changes over the last 8 hours, but more importantly a built in compass, which may actually be the most useful of all the gizmos.

Brownliners will scoff only because we know “crap flows downhill” – hence our car is easy to find.

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