Category Archives: Fly Tying

All I wanted was some thread, now I have my nose pressed to the glass like a kid

All I wanted was some bulk cones of nylon thread, and a couple hours later I was engrossed in a bunch of products I never knew existed. All have possibilities for the fly tyer – especially those tiers with a sense of adventure.

Disclaimer : I haven’t seen these in person, and “thread” to the sewing industry can be “yarn” to a fly tyer – so you’ll need to eyeball these with caution.

  1. Solar Active thread – apparently the thread gets brighter when exposed to the sun, it will also change color. $31.95 for a pack of four colors. A pack contains peach (becomes hot pink), yellow (orange), peach (wine), and turquoise (blue purple).
  2. Polypropylene Thread – likely this is the yarn we’re used to seeing on the little cards. 5000 yards for $17.00, likely this will lower your flood insurance payment – buy 2 or more spools and your house will float.
  3. Glow in the Dark Thread
    FuFu’s Glow in the Dark Embroidery Thread absorbs the light around it andGlow in the Dark thread offers 15 hours of glow time.  I see this as an interesting experiment, call it “Thread that makes you go, ‘Hmmm'” Colors: Blue, Classic, Green, Orange, Pink, Purple, White, Yellow. 120 denier, 2ply (sounds like yarn) $13.95 for 1100 yards.
  4. Moonglow “Glow in the Dark” thread offers even more colors, $15.30 for 500 yards.
  5. Opalescent thread 5. Coats Iridescent Pearl Thread
    Might be an interesting ribbing material, at 40 wt it’s too thick to actually tie the fly with, but it may have additional value as a rib, akin to the many uses of wire. 200 yd. spool. Thread is 60% nylon core, 40% coated polyester. 1 Spool – $2.75

    6. I was surprised to find NYMO thread still around. Back in the 1970’s NYMO was the defacto flytying thread used by absolutely everyone. When they stopped making it the Danville and Monocord empire was born. It has been reborn as a “beading” thread for jewelry making, the smallest size available is “00” (2/0)- suitable for larger flies.

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I wouldn’t mind so much if they only doubled their money, but they prefer the consumer pay much more

3911 feet versus 30 feet, 34 Gauge is standard flytying wireI use more copper wire than the Intel Corporation, and my recent whirlwind tour of fly shops gave me a shopping list of items to find in bulk . Copper wire was first on the list, as a measly 30 foot spool costs $2.00 at the shop.

I use the standard size and the “ultra” wire size, which is slightly smaller. The electronics trade calls this stuff many things, but “magnet wire” seems to be a common title. It is a raw copper wire with an enamel coating, and comes in a variety of colors.

I prefer the enamel coated wire to “raw” copper as the enamel prevents the wire from tarnishing. I usually apply a rubberband to the larger spools to prevent unraveling, the enamel protects the wire against discoloration caused by damp flies returned to the box, and the rubber band securing the spool.

A half pound spool of magnet wire is about $10.25. In the 34 Gauge size (our fly tying standard) you get 3911 feet of wire for the price of five fly shop spools.

I am guessing that the Ultra Wire is 36 Gauge, but as it is on backorder I cannot confirm this. I got two 1/2 pound spools today, 34 Gauge and 32 Gauge for larger steelhead flies.

The hard part is electronic supply houses don’t care about the color. You have to ensure that you are getting the simple “brownish” enamel finish, not purple or green, or whatever they have in the rack.

As a reference vendor, Action Electronics was where I got mine, but I got assorted colors which are less useful than the natural copper color. You need to call or visit to ensure color selection – as I haven’t found an electronics site that allows me to choose color via the web.

Singlebarbed readers do not tremble when shopping with a coupon, so buck up.

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Clarity is always fleeting, Oops, we missed it

madscientist2 A fly tyer is responsible for the entire sub-prime mortgage debacle, and the proof is on my tying bench.

I know where I’m fishing, I know what bugs live there, yet I insist on tinkering with what works, in favor of just tying what’s needed. It’s not just me that’s afflicted, as I have heard many fly tyers gnash teeth over the same self destructive behavior.

Local intel reveals ALL the fish are committing suicide on any Gold Ribbed Hare’s Ear. In response, you starting digging out bunny parts slamming them onto the hook, and a vision appears;

The Gold Ribbed Hare’s Ear would be better if it had a red tail.”

Just as quickly the vision is gone, and you look down at your blistered fingers and see 34 dozen Hare’s Ear’s with a red tail.

Why do we do this to ourselves?

As I’m a willing victim of this aberration I’m not sure I can shed light – but intuition suggests greed and ego may have a hand in the outcome, it could also be a left brain/right brain issue, as I always struggled to keep the crayon inside the lines in elementary school.

I assume that “good can be made great” which is why most tiers tinker with patterns, and all the great chefs in the world are men. (Even more than fly tiers, men share the “tinker-lust” despite repeated and very public failures.)

I don’t want a fly tyer managing my 401K because the self destructive dimwit would be swinging for the fences with every purchase. If a safe but staid 10% return is available, he would ignore that in favor of some shady penny stock that he “visioned” was going up five bucks.

Plagued by these artistic visions, it’s little wonder that greed and excess have spilled into the mortgage market, as all of the fly tying mortgage brokers and hedge fund managers said, “Hell yes you qualify, I seen it!”

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Tinker Tying – How to screw up something that works fine

Never quite satisfied by what works, and always succumbing to base instincts, artistic flair, and some esoteric material ill suited for whatever you should be tying.

#20 BWO ParachutesI had a live sample for the #20 Blue Wing Olives, complements of the Trout Undergrounds precise photography. Modified to give me more to see, as old eyes and tiny dries are not a good match.

I needed some standard searching patterns for the traditional midday grind, simple nymphs to replace those left imbedded in brownline shrubbery; Olive AP nymphs in size 14, and some Hare’s Ear’s in size 12.

AP Olive in size 16, Angelina infusedNot having to give them all away is a first, normally all the fishing pals show up at my door with their hand out. No matter how many I tie up I am left with two after the feeding frenzy.

Until all of the sewage and wastewater effluent is washed off the waders it’s best I fish alone. I figure the fish downstream will be too busy complaining to notice the hook until it’s too late.

October Caddis looking hairball, Size 10, Angelina ribbedOctober Caddis in case they’re needed, if not these will make a nice carp fly, heavy wire hook and ribbed with Angelina to add a dab of flash.

I tied some Elk Hair Caddis which always receive a warm welcome, and added some #18 Pale Morning Duns to give me something visible and a color change. With the odd scraps already in my fly box, it will give me added versatility, and should any prove tasty, I have a dozen or more of every pattern.

Pale Olive Paradun #18 - A Northern California stapleThe Pale Olive Paraduns were spared my fiddling with the recipe, in large part because in my youth I had to tie 200-300 dozen of them per year. It’s quite possible I was asleep when I tied these, as were the only pattern that escaped augmentation.

I managed to repair the significant holes in my fly box for this weekends expedition, I carry so few flies that I am quite practiced at forcefeeding something to a trout. In a pinch – that’s why God made rocks. 

Heat Fusible, SingleBarbed braves the fiery inferno of feminine scorn for Science

Domestic bliss shattered by my failure to iron shirts, but as it was for  Science, it’s a worthy martyrdom.

Angelina fibers are available in a heat fusible flavor,  insert a pinch of fibers into a paper napkin, pass an iron over them a couple times and the of fibers fuse flatly to each other, yielding a “Tyvek” style mesh cloth.

A thin “Tyvek” style mesh clothThis fabric is only as strong as the volume of fibers used and the degree of their overlap. Additional experimentation is required to find the best pattern to melt; parallel fibers, cross-hatched, further testing is needed to  determine what proves strongest.

One look at the result and about 75 different uses pop into your head, so allocate some time to fiddle.

Mayfly wings was the first thing I saw – the opalescent hue looks just like a shiny spinner wing. I trimmed a set for a #18 hook and managed to secure it without too much trouble. They are light and flexible wings – they will bend in flight rather than remain rigid and “helicopter” the tippet.

Nice wing effect, but too fragile yet

The photo shows what happened after I gave it a good yank. The direction of the original fibers when fused will have to be tinkered with so they don’t tear out. A #18 hook doesn’t give much area to tie down, the wing frayed badly when abused.

The intact wing shows the effect of the fabric trimmed to a shape, I folded the material and cut both wings at the same time, leaving a narrow adjoining section to tie to the hook. That was my mistake, as the narrow “neck” between the wings did not have many fibers secured. When pulled, the wing slowly fragmented into oblivion. Visually it’s a nice wing effect, but durability requires us to test further.

My next attempt was to roll up some fabric into a cigar shape then trim to the proper length once attached – exactly as a polypropylene yarn spinner is tied. I figured more fibers would be secured in the small tie down area and the wing should hold together much better.

This flavor will see action immediately, tough and durable

The result is depicted above, after I mauled them badly trying to pull them apart. The fibers separated a little bit but that was the only evidence of damage. Like all good flies the more it’s eaten – the better it looks.

The above pattern is what we used on Fall River and Hat Creek for the Trico spinner falls, when the solid black flavor didn’t yield any fish we switched to this variant – it went by many names, mostly we called it a “female Trico.”

Now I just call it “too damn small for me to see” – along with every other fly smaller than an #8.. I will debut these this weekend on the foam line just for the fun of it – assuming I get out of the Doghouse by then.

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Restocking the fly box, I ignore good taste and play havoc with traditional patterns

I mentioned in an earlier post of finding a new material with great promise for fly tying, while fish and local water clarity are uncooperative, I’m restocking my fly box and absorbing some NFL action.

The two materials I am testing are Angelina and Crystalina fibers, both available from the garment industry as fiber, film, and cloth. Crystalina appears to be called “Ice Dubbing” – a refractive coarse material suitable for larger flies. It’s the Angelina fibers that have really caught my interest however.

Finer than Crystalina and suitable for all ranges of hook size, I am blending it with natural furs using a coffee grinder, then retying many of the patterns I use substituting the Angelina blend instead of the normal mixture.

The 49er’s lost, but I gained another dozen flies to fish

The results are stunning as even traditional patterns get a dramatic face lift. More importantly, it adds a full range of color spectrum due to the opalescent sheen.

Coffee grinder blending requires that all fur added be no more than an inch in length, any longer and the fibers will wrap around the center spindle and bind the motor, quickly burning it out.

I needed to replenish some Gold Ribbed Hare’s Ear’s and mixed a blend of Red Fox squirrel guard hairs, muskrat fur (because I had a ton of it on the skin) and 20% Angelina.

The raw Angelina is about 4-6 inches in length, so I trimmed it into the grinder along with muskrat shaven off the hide with scissors. You have to wad the material down into the blades to get it to mix well, but it only takes seconds to make a batch.

It’s personal preference, I would rather use blends of fur rather than a uniform dyed color. Bugs are an uneven coloration especially when tumbling in the water column, so I prefer having multiple colors and textures in fur for nymphs. Dry flies are not so much an issue as the fish can’t inspect much more than the portion visible to them.

80% Muskrat and 20% Angelina fiber

The opalescence of the Angelina fiber really adds quite a few colors without dominating the result. Mixing much more than 20% of the fibers will have start to overwhelm the original dressing, I was just looking to give a little sparkle and solidify my proof of concept.

I like to use a base complement of nymph colors and sizes when fishing. Black, Olive, Gray, Pheasant Brown, and something mostly peacock. Those 5 colors should seduce something in any stream, and should cover most species of freshwater fish.

I have to order additional colors to make all those blends, in the meantime I am focusing on the natural mother of pearl fiber to see how it looks when added to traditional flies.                                                      

Angelina imbued Hare’s Ear

The photo is inadequate to capture the colors, but it hints at the effect. A stellar replacement for seal fur as the sparkle of “Angie” makes seal look dull in comparison.

Us bachelors lack ironing skills, fusing the fibers with an iron is next, if soft enough it should make dramatic spinner wings. I’ll be abusing the flies to see how the material stands up to use and whether the refraction qualities grow dull with sunlight. Hungry small fish won’t be much of a test, but it’s close by.

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We’re re-tying everything, Angelina Fibers has our creativity working overtime

Click to enlargeWhite lab coat time, as I’m fiddling with one of those materials you stumble across whose possibilities are virtually endless.

It’s a strange synthetic filament called Angelina. It is soft enough to dub like fur, and long enough to use as fine hair, it can be ironed to make bug wings (heat fuses the filaments together) or chopped up and mixed with dubbing to add an opalescent sparkle.

It is available as a fiber from the garment industry, apparently it’s also available as a cloth and as a thread.

It’s something that you can use in everything, especially during them long winter months when experimentation coupled with football and strong coffee brings your artistic side to the forefront.

It looks exactly like hair made out of mother of pearl, yet the filament size is so fine you can dub it onto a hook like fur.  It is available in about 45 colors and 2 cuts; straight, and crimped, bondable (heat fused) and non-bondable. The crimped style is slightly heavier hair than the straight version (large nymphs, steelhead flies), straight is perfect for dubbing smaller nymphs and even dry fly bodies. Every color retains the opalescent quality in addition to the coloration.

Click to EnlargeMy camera cannot show the opal refractive qualities as it just isn’t good enough. I dubbed a #12 hook shank with Angelina fibers, white and pink, allowing you to see the fiber size. Click on both pictures to see a higher resolution image.

Angelina is sold in 1/2 oz. packages, a bundle of material 5″ long, 3.5″ wide, and almost 2″ thick. Cost ranges from $3.50 to $4.50 a package.

Most of the vendors pictures are as poor as mine, included are links to some sites that display a large range of colors.

This may be what they’re calling “Ice Dubbing” but not having seen that product I cannot say with certainty. If so, buying it in this flavor will be a lot cheaper than the little packages available at the fly shop.

Get the Angelina Straight Cut in whatever color you like best, it has the widest range of applications as it is the finest filament size. I purchased some sample packages (5 colors each) from Embellishment Village.

Imitation & Impressionism, now let’s introduce Physics

It surely doesn't look like much, the test is tomorrow I am whipping together some flies for tomorrow’s Brownline Tarpon session, still giddy from today’s success. I left four flies in bull rushes or fish and realized I was getting low on the physical properties needed.

Huh? Just tie more of what worked and be done with it, right?

If I had been fishing a hatch of specific insects that’s precisely what I would do, but instead of fish feeding selectively – they were feeding period.

A cigarette butt that sank fast enough would’ve worked just as well. I would love to say that a #4 Olive Wooly Bugger is the pre-nuptial form of the Giganticus Ephemerella Sativa, but it’s not – and I’m no genius for getting a hungry fish to eat either.

I scared you from tying with the road-kill piece, now let me explain why tying pays off:

  • I need a fly that sinks fast, but not too fast as the maximum depth is about 5 feet.
  • I need it to look like food
  • I need to oversize the hook relative to the fly size, so that I get a solid chunk of fish mouth, and a heavier wire hook. A 10lb fish on a trout hook is asking for trouble, these fish go up to 15-17lbs.

You’ll be able to find something suitable at the store, but nothing beats the ability to customize flies for a specific situation. Of the above, the oversized hook is the most important, it will pay for itself every time you turn the fish and see that little tiny hook in that really big mouth. The only time you’ll pray more fervently is the Dentist’s Office – just as soon as the high pitched whine of his drill filters into the reception area…

The pictures depict what I tied; neutral/dark buggy looking critter with a flashabou rib and a copper bead.

A half dozen should handle a quick outing

A slender profile assists the sink rate, as does the oversized hook and copper bead. A light flashabou rib (3 turns) gives a little sparkle. Guard hairs from the black rabbit offer a hint of movement, but most important is the wider gape and stronger steel offered by the #12 hook. The fly body is tied to be a #14 fly.

Tailoring the flies sink rate allows me to use the cast to determine what depth the fly reaches when it passes near the target fish. Casting close to the target yields shallow, casting further away allows the fly to get much deeper.

I don’t think the fly pattern matters at all, but the fish has the final say, and unlike the magazines they’re always right.

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Sordid Confessions of a Tertiary Stage Fly Tier

I'll leave this one, thanks What is really needed is a rehab clinic for fly tiers that have entered that hideous tertiary phase…some polite nurse behind the counter to welcome the twitching wreck of a man that brakes for road kill.

I admit nothing, and removing the taxidermy kit from the back seat would be a good first step, but like all addicts, I talk a better line than I practice.

It always starts innocent enough, driving a back road enjoying the evening and a flash of color by the center line has me applying brakes, frantic downshifting, and a drag chute. Safely off the pavement its time for a furtive glance in both directions and then check the latest offering of the Asphalt Gods.

Any real tier worth his salt can tell sex, species, approximate the decay level, cross reference it with his mental inventory, and determine value – before he locks the brakes up.

We’re sicko’s, masterless ronin, owing allegiance to nothing, other than the knowledge that steel belted radial season is open year round. The real trick is getting the game processed so’s not spend the next decade in some gladiator academy, protecting our hindquarters.

The same mantra applies when your dimwit neighbor shows up with a dripping carcass, you mentioned the “fur and feathers” thing, granted it was after the third beer, now there’s blood dripping on your doormat, it’s time to fish, not just cut bait.

Needs no explanationBirds are easy, the skin is loosely connected to the rest of the critter, and even a dull Buck knife can quickly cape or remove the portions that you want. To complete the task just scrape any fat off the skin, and then stretch the cape feather side down on a piece of cardboard box. The skin will dry and harden within a couple of days. Oil will seep out – the more fat left on the skin, the more oil – but this can be wiped away during the drying process. Cornmeal applied to the skin will absorb all oil, and not be toxic to your dog, after he inhales the cape off your tying bench.

Hides are more complex, as they have much more connective tissue attaching them to the host animal. Same rules apply, you need to scrape all the fat off the back of the hide, then tack it up (hair side down)stretched onto a cardboard surface. Hides take a lot longer to dry as they are much thicker, and can contain much more sinew and fat.

If you engage in this behavior, remember that Mrs. McGillicutty will take a dim view of you pelting her tabby on the lawn. It won’t matter how legitimate the kill was – or who done it, you’re toast.

Ditto for all birds and mammals in or out of season, you are culpable and will be ticketed if you attempt to take any animal parts from the roadside. It’s a fair assumption, that might be a high value target and you may have swerved intentionally.

In California, all road kill of size is picked up by the California Department of Transportation and incinerated. Their concern is the health risk; all animals have ticks, fleas, and assorted blood sucking things attached to them when alive. Most will quickly depart a corpse, but you’re at risk for whatever may be present, including rabies and assorted other maladies.

I’m just prepping you for the time when you round the bend of the river and allegedly spot a Great Blue Heron in pristine condition, cold as stone. I’ll let you wrestle with the moral and criminal repercussions on your own.

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