Category Archives: Fly Tying

Singlebarbed does dogfood

geekComputer technical types love jargon that lifts the customers eyebrow. It’s a simple explanation really, Ma cut the crusts off our sandwich in elementary school, we been on the prod ever since.

“Dogfood” describes the process by which you first eat what you wish to serve the customer. Our cadre of coupon shopping Singlebarbed ultra consumers (me) report back on some of the items mentioned in prior posts.

Brass Beads: The brass beads mentioned from Rings & Things arrived, the beads are what I was looking for, but watch the hole size. The standard is a 1mm hole which will fit over the eye of a #20 Tiemco 100, nothing larger.

Hook and Bead comparisonThe 2mm bead is the perfect size for #20 and #18 hooks. They will fit over the hook point of larger hooks, #18 and #16.

The 4mm size has a larger hole but it was a hook point thread as well, make sure you get the 1.5mm hole size. The 3mm beads have a 1mm hole but are too big a bead to fit around the bend of a small hook.

Brass Barbell: The price list for the brass dumbbell eyes arrived from China. Small $26.40 /1000, Medium $32.40 /1000, and Large $40.80 /1000. Considering the shops sell them for about 25-29 cents each, that is a stunning price. Contact information available at the TopMim web site.

HH-66 Cement: I checked the big chain hardware stores and none carry it. If ordered from the Internet, the thinner requires an extra $15 handling charge as it is not allowed on planes. That makes a lifetime of head cement cost $40 instead of $20. Still a deal, I have an order enroute.

Many asked about head cement bottles or applicators, they are available as fingernail polish bottles (glass) with brush applicator, or my favorite, the squeeze needle nose, Needle bottle. Plastic bottles can be dissolved by certain cements, so if you haven’t tested it yet, don’t buy 600 of them.

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Gimme Some

Dissolve-O-MaticThey say “revenge is a dish, best served cold,” and I’ve got the ultimate prank for them mooching fish buddies of yours.

You know who I’m talking about, that erstwhile pal that always has his mitts in your fly box, “What’d you catch him on, I ain’t got none of those, gimme some.”

Introducing the water soluble thread.

Just try to keep a straight face…two casts and your pal is fishing a bare hook. 6 or 7 “Dissolve-O-Nymphs” later, and you wont have to worry about him demanding more of your precious Pheasant Tails.

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More Bulk for the Accumulator

HH-66 Vinyl CementManaged to track down some more bulk tying material sources, figured to pass them on.

Vinyl Cement comprises about 50% of the head cement market, it is a flexible bond that is used for working flies, slightly opaque and has a dull finish, so it is not used on “presentation” flies that require a transparent high gloss finish.

Available under a blizzard of recognizable names, all are descended from the venerable HH-66 cement from Mauritzon Inc.  A gallon may be a bit excessive, but a quart is merely $14.40 – that is a lifetime supply. Quarts of thinner are available for $8.55. Thin the cement to water-consistancy before using.

The motherlode of Tungsten beads, brass beads, and tungsten barbell eyes is available in China. Unfortunately their web site leaves much to be desired, but TopMim International appears to be the source for everyone. The manufacturer is JinJu Powder Metallurgy Inc, whose site mentions minimum quantity is 1000 beads. Both sites mention supplying beads to the fly fishing industry, and their bead photos can be found on many middlemen sites in the US and Europe.

I sent them an email to get their price list, hopefully it is in Euro’s or Dollars.

If you are unwilling to take on international trade, Rings & Things has the round 2mm – 5mm copper, silver, and gold, beads for $1 per 100. That is about 1/4 the price of your fly shop. Buy 1000 (2mm) and the price is 50 cents per 100. (Minimum order $25, make sure you get a catalog) Can’t beat the price.

Eidnes Furs has some nice prices on animal pelts. We don’t need the fancy #1 quality, the damaged #3’s will do just fine. They have some interesting feathers as well – but the pelt prices are cheap.

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Old dogs Old tricks

Mustad HookOut of necessity I went “Old School” on all my flies tied this season. My hook stash was light on all the Tiemco, Gamakatsu, Daiichi, round-wire trout hooks, so I dug deeper into the morass to  find Mustad 94840 and 3906B’s, the old standards.

Having fished both Japanese chemically sharpened and Mustad forged hooks for over a decade each, I hadn’t thought to compare the two until I found myself attempting to restock my larder.

Per normal, the Japanese hooks are sold in the $16.00 per hundred range,  the old Mustad’s are still available and are half the price. I like the Japanese hooks, but are they twice as good as price suggests?

In a non-scientific test, here are my observations (season to date):

Japanese hooks are a dab more malleable steel, their barbs pinch down without breaking off the entire hook point, and they deform more easily than their forged counterparts. While bending the wire back into the original shape seems no issue, I suppose there is a bit of weakness introduced.

Mustad forged hooks (94840) are a rigid brittle steel, pinching a barb down with pliers is always a risk, as some percentage always seems to lose both barb and point, rendering the fly a write-off. Deformation of the hook due to a snag on an unyielding surface is nonexistent. Because of this, some loss occurs when the entire point/barb assembly is snapped off when the fly comes free. 

Japanese hooks on the whole seem better made. Mustad hooks always will have 3-4 hooks per box that have improperly closed eyes, or a gap large enough that must be sealed by the tyer with thread.

Both vendors have annealed hooks; the finish is not quite dry and two or more hooks stick together, most can be separated so the issue is trivial.

The Japanese hooks have a wider variety of hooks, but that may be artificial, as the vendors may stock more of their hooks than the cheaper selling Mustad flavor. It does appear as if they are available in more diverse wire types, curvatures, and colors.

The round wire Mustad nymph hooks have the same qualities as their Japanese counterparts; softer, more malleable wire, little issue with barb pinching. This is consistent with the forging process, as a swaged wire should resist better than a round wire. I assume we can use the house rafter analogy, as round rafters were abandoned a hundred years ago in favor of the current “forged” or rectangular construction. 

On the whole, it would appear that current Japanese offerings are slightly better made, and slightly more diverse, but twice as expensive. I am not convinced that they are twice as good.

Mustad has their new line of Signature hooks which I have not yet tested. These are roughly the same cost as the Japanese flavor, and they might be worthy of consideration. I will report back on them as soon as they  arrive.

In summary, fish both with confidence. To spare yourself destroying your last #18 Black Ant, you may want to pinch the barb before the fly is tied. You will be inconsolable if the fish are rising in great numbers, and that is all they are stupid for…

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Let’s settle this shall we

The Expensive part of fly tyingBanish the thought from your mind, tying your own flies is not cheaper than buying them. Measured simply in dollars, the two aren’t even in the same zipcode. There are some benefits to fly tying that can’t be quantified and may tip the scales a bit.

The Numbers Game

If we look at the cost of trout flies, they range from $1.50 to $2.50, with the bulk of the standard patterns at the lower end of that scale. Assuming the typical urban angler gets away 6 times a year for a fishing excursion, and buys about 2 dozen flies for each outing, he is out of pocket about $300 per year.

For his flytying counterpart, if he had to tie that same 12 dozen, it is a different story. If we assemble a kit of the materials necessary, it may include:

Genetic Necks – 1-Rhode Island Red, 1 – Grizzly, 1 – Cream/Ginger

Dubbing Fur – Black, Brown, Olive, Grey, Cream, Yellow, Tan, Rust

Skins/Bird Parts – Partridge, Speckled Hen saddle, Mallard flank(natural and dyed woodduck), Teal, Pheasant Tail, Peacock Herl, Ostrich, Dyed Hen saddle (Olive, Brown), Saddle Hackle (grizzly, badger, brown), Turkey Tail, Goose Biots. Marabou (olive, black)

Animal Parts: Calf tail, Hare’s Mask, Moose Body, Deer Hair, Elk Hair

Synthetic/Man Made: Copper wire, Gold wire, Lead wire, Polypropylene yarn (white), Pearl Flashabou (or equivalent), Prewaxed Thread (black, brown, cream, olive), Floss (red, yellow), Brass beads (small, medium).

Hooks: Dry Fly (12, 14, 16, 18), Nymph (12, 14, 16, 18), Specialty (3XL 8, 10)

I wouldn’t be accused of flamboyance in the above items, this is a basic kit that can tie quite a few different patterns. There will be plenty left over after our 12 dozen flies, some of the above items can tie many hundreds of dozens before being exhausted. The above tying kit retails for approximately $461.00.

Note that no tools, vises, or other tying paraphernalia is counted in the above, this is simply a raw list of items that could tie 12 dozen assorted flies. Our assumption is that the angler buying flies is likely to pick 2-3 of each, and 12 dozen would be around 50 different fly patterns.

Using the “dollar” indicator only, $300 < $461, so buying flies is cheaper.

Granted, the additional flies we can tie from this kit will lower the per fly price in each subsequent year, but we’ll start to run out of items and have to restock. If you supplement the items with road kill, and catastrophic loss due to moth infestation, the calculation become unwieldy almost immediately.

Hexagenia DunIf we acknowledge some of the intangibles, that may shift things. What a flytyer gets is a deeper understanding of fly design, movement, and aquatic entomology. He can tailor a fly exactly to the bug he sees on the stream, whereas the guy buying flies has to find an approximation – a standard pattern close enough to the natural that he can use effectively. This is easy, as fish are stupid. On rare occasion, nothing but the custom pattern will do, this is more the exception rather than the rule.

Assimilating all that tying knowledge will put the crafter into learning bug behavior. Reading countless articles on new patterns and absorbing their recipe will also convey how and where to fish it, how to recognize the natural when he sees it, and what unique qualities exist in the sillouette or style of emergence. Simply put, fly tyers will know more about bugs. How much is that worth?…A plugged farthing at a cocktail party, but useful as hell when fishing.

The second major benefit for tyers is that their season is longer than a fellow purchasing flies. Them cold winter months give the perfect opportunity to replenish those holes in your fly box. It ain’t fishing, but it’s the next best thing.

As a byproduct of tying, angler confidence is increased. You were there last year, they were eating “little yellow mayflies” – you spent all winter perfecting that pattern, now you’ll reap the reward. Confidence is akin to superstition, as we have all met the guy that claims, “I catch all my fish on a #16 Adams” – the fact that he has been successful (confidence) is enough for him to continue to force feed that fly for hours, regardless of what’s hatching.

The Deep End

The GordonMany fly tyers go off the deep end, and although it can be expensive, it is still a rewarding hobby. These tyers wind up owning huge stashes of fly materials, far in excess of what they can use in multiple seasons. Often these collections result from interests in fly crafting, attempting to tie traditional Atlantic Salmon flies using the original materials, and other esoteric forms of tying. They might live thousands of miles from any salmon, but it is the art and skill displayed that is the main event.

These tyers spend many thousands of dollars in materials, and have long surpassed any thought to the economics of their flies, they’re as interested in their craft as they are in fishing. Many sports have this same unbridled accumulation hobby, it still beats blowing your cash on cheap rotgut and hookers.

A “Deep Ender” is easy to spot, watch him make a fuss over the neighbors Pale Blue Dun cat, seven minutes later he’ll be throwing rocks at an orange tabby. He’s the guy that swerves his car at a porcupine, and is up to his elbows in the gut pile at the local duck club.

Word’s of Wisdom – always go fishing in his car, that way you don’t have to explain the rotting fox carcass under the seat to your wife.

No finger lick

The Colonel ain't the trouble this timeIn reading the recent developments about Lead contaminated toys, it struck me that I may want to abandon all weighted nymph use and become a dry fly purist.

Fly tyers use lead fuse wire to weight all underwater flies. Lead wire acted as the metal filament seen in today’s fuses, burning through at the appropriate amperage and killing the circuit. Dropped from commercial use long ago, but still remains the preferred choice to sink a small hook.

Lead is absorbed most readily through airborne dust and ingestion. It can also be absorbed through the skin when mixed with sweat. While tyers handle lead a short time during fly construction, tying a lot of flies prolongs the exposure.

The best information I can decipher, is that you want to wash your hands. Slightly more sinister is the finding that “oxidized lead” – lead that has discolored via contact with the air, is absorbed at a much higher rate.

In short, if you handle lead, it’s on your fingers, if you smoke while handling lead, its in your mouth as well. If you have old spools of oxidized lead in your tying bench, those pose more risk than newer spools of clean metallic lead.

As a defensive practice, and if concerned, I would suggest that you lead all of your hooks in a quick session, wash your hands, then complete the flies. In this fashion you are not replenishing the lead on your fingers with each new fly.

Now that all us tyers have no hope of reproduction, current research also suggests that consumption of iron, zinc, and calcium, assists the body in getting the lead out.

Nice to know that SingleBarbed was all over the vitamin issue in a prior post, cutting edge medicine free for the asking.

Don’t use your cooking pots

redmohawk.jpgI find it cheaper to buy bulk white/badger saddle and dye it into all the colors I need for trout, steelhead, and salmon flies. Commercial supermarket dyes like RIT work very well on the earth tones needed for trout, but for the vibrant colors for steelhead and salmon I prefer aniline dyes.

Aniline is called many things on the Internet, you can find them referenced as “coal tar” dyes, and sometimes, “acid” or “protein” dyes. They have been in use for at least 100 years, and are now regulated to ensure they are not used on food.

I was interested in what they were using to dye hair in hair parlors. We’ve all seen the kid on the block with the “Day-Glo” Mohawk, I was wondering if the dye used for people’s hair might be either cheaper, or easier to use.

Still looking for that answer, but I did stumble upon a nice dye primer site that explains all of the dyes in commercial use for fabric, and synthetic fibers. Plenty of useful links to vendors, and some nice explanations on which kind to use for synthetic fibers.

Don’t be scared of the term “acid dye” white vinegar (5% acetic acid solution) or muriatic acid (38% HydroChloric – used to balance swimming pool Ph) is commonly used as the fixative.

For the urban vigilante this can be used to silence neighbors that play the stereo too loud, just lob a pound of dye in his swimming pool. Humans are protein also (grin).

The $5.95 dilemma

nylon_thread.jpgThere are only three prices at a fly shop; $5.95, $3.95, and $TrustFund.95 – with fly tying the worst offender.  Miniscule glascine envelopes with brightly colored lint, 13 color choices, and your wife waiting impatiently in the car…

As mentioned before, most of the synthetic materials are retreads from existing industries. The hard part is finding out what that  industry calls them so you can buy in bulk. “Crimp covers” are the brass beads we make bead head flies from; used in the jewelry and bead industry to hide crimp marks on necklaces. Most of them are real gold and silver – so you need to find the copper or brass flavors for real savings.

Polypropylene yarn is available at most fabric stores in the knitting section, it has many industrial uses including automotive trim and upholstery.

I am still tracking down a good source for nylon thread. Most commercial uses are for sizes 2/0 (size 15 to the thread industry) and larger, but at $10.99 for 28,000 yards – it is a steal. On occasion you stumble upon something unanticipated that meshes well with your tying, like these 120 spool wood thread racks – if you can’t put it away where it belongs – you can keep it from underfoot.

Natural materials are also used by other crafters and businesses. The costume industry is dominant for the feather side of the business, taxidermists sell hides and scraps. You have to be careful however – as hides for garments are very expensive.

15 colors of copper wire? I had no idea…

That is a bargain

pure_cashmere.jpgLike any canny shopper I am always prepared to pounce on a bargain, however common sense occasionally overcomes my lust to acquire fly tying supplies.  Many of the synthetic materials we use for flies come from other industries, on occasion I stumble across a lifetime supply, when only a couple hundred yards will do.

Anyone need chenille? Pretty fair deal, 2500 yards for only $14.00 . Five colors available,  Taupe wooly buggers times infinity – 46 lbs available. Need some lead wire for all those buggers? 25lbs is a tad much  for me, but you’ll  need it.

Sometimes I hate Google.

Commercial Tyer wannabe

zugbug.jpgThe fellow that throttled the peacock in Burger King’s parking lot should be a lesson to aspiring commercial fly tiers. The good news is that he was a beginner, the bad news is probably the fate that drove him to cracking publicly.

Many anglers decide to defray the cost of their next fly rod via tying flies, most forget the part about the mindless repetition that’s part of tying many hundreds of dozens of the same fly in at most a couple sizes.

You might’ve assumed there’d be groupies, free Hoffman saddles, and membership in the Hilton Posse, but to sustain that level of popularity, you’ll have to crank many thousands of Zug Bugs in size 18 and 20.

Yes, people actually use those sizes, and if you’re any good – you’ll get tagged with the bulk of their production.

So why was this fellow a beginner? He was astute enough to kick the tail feathers loose – but a grizzled veteran would have thanked everyone for finding the bird, rushed home and skinned it using his wife’s favorite fillet knife.