Category Archives: Fly Tying

Tinker Tying – How to screw up something that works fine

Never quite satisfied by what works, and always succumbing to base instincts, artistic flair, and some esoteric material ill suited for whatever you should be tying.

#20 BWO ParachutesI had a live sample for the #20 Blue Wing Olives, complements of the Trout Undergrounds precise photography. Modified to give me more to see, as old eyes and tiny dries are not a good match.

I needed some standard searching patterns for the traditional midday grind, simple nymphs to replace those left imbedded in brownline shrubbery; Olive AP nymphs in size 14, and some Hare’s Ear’s in size 12.

AP Olive in size 16, Angelina infusedNot having to give them all away is a first, normally all the fishing pals show up at my door with their hand out. No matter how many I tie up I am left with two after the feeding frenzy.

Until all of the sewage and wastewater effluent is washed off the waders it’s best I fish alone. I figure the fish downstream will be too busy complaining to notice the hook until it’s too late.

October Caddis looking hairball, Size 10, Angelina ribbedOctober Caddis in case they’re needed, if not these will make a nice carp fly, heavy wire hook and ribbed with Angelina to add a dab of flash.

I tied some Elk Hair Caddis which always receive a warm welcome, and added some #18 Pale Morning Duns to give me something visible and a color change. With the odd scraps already in my fly box, it will give me added versatility, and should any prove tasty, I have a dozen or more of every pattern.

Pale Olive Paradun #18 - A Northern California stapleThe Pale Olive Paraduns were spared my fiddling with the recipe, in large part because in my youth I had to tie 200-300 dozen of them per year. It’s quite possible I was asleep when I tied these, as were the only pattern that escaped augmentation.

I managed to repair the significant holes in my fly box for this weekends expedition, I carry so few flies that I am quite practiced at forcefeeding something to a trout. In a pinch – that’s why God made rocks. 

Heat Fusible, SingleBarbed braves the fiery inferno of feminine scorn for Science

Domestic bliss shattered by my failure to iron shirts, but as it was for  Science, it’s a worthy martyrdom.

Angelina fibers are available in a heat fusible flavor,  insert a pinch of fibers into a paper napkin, pass an iron over them a couple times and the of fibers fuse flatly to each other, yielding a “Tyvek” style mesh cloth.

A thin “Tyvek” style mesh clothThis fabric is only as strong as the volume of fibers used and the degree of their overlap. Additional experimentation is required to find the best pattern to melt; parallel fibers, cross-hatched, further testing is needed to  determine what proves strongest.

One look at the result and about 75 different uses pop into your head, so allocate some time to fiddle.

Mayfly wings was the first thing I saw – the opalescent hue looks just like a shiny spinner wing. I trimmed a set for a #18 hook and managed to secure it without too much trouble. They are light and flexible wings – they will bend in flight rather than remain rigid and “helicopter” the tippet.

Nice wing effect, but too fragile yet

The photo shows what happened after I gave it a good yank. The direction of the original fibers when fused will have to be tinkered with so they don’t tear out. A #18 hook doesn’t give much area to tie down, the wing frayed badly when abused.

The intact wing shows the effect of the fabric trimmed to a shape, I folded the material and cut both wings at the same time, leaving a narrow adjoining section to tie to the hook. That was my mistake, as the narrow “neck” between the wings did not have many fibers secured. When pulled, the wing slowly fragmented into oblivion. Visually it’s a nice wing effect, but durability requires us to test further.

My next attempt was to roll up some fabric into a cigar shape then trim to the proper length once attached – exactly as a polypropylene yarn spinner is tied. I figured more fibers would be secured in the small tie down area and the wing should hold together much better.

This flavor will see action immediately, tough and durable

The result is depicted above, after I mauled them badly trying to pull them apart. The fibers separated a little bit but that was the only evidence of damage. Like all good flies the more it’s eaten – the better it looks.

The above pattern is what we used on Fall River and Hat Creek for the Trico spinner falls, when the solid black flavor didn’t yield any fish we switched to this variant – it went by many names, mostly we called it a “female Trico.”

Now I just call it “too damn small for me to see” – along with every other fly smaller than an #8.. I will debut these this weekend on the foam line just for the fun of it – assuming I get out of the Doghouse by then.

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Restocking the fly box, I ignore good taste and play havoc with traditional patterns

I mentioned in an earlier post of finding a new material with great promise for fly tying, while fish and local water clarity are uncooperative, I’m restocking my fly box and absorbing some NFL action.

The two materials I am testing are Angelina and Crystalina fibers, both available from the garment industry as fiber, film, and cloth. Crystalina appears to be called “Ice Dubbing” – a refractive coarse material suitable for larger flies. It’s the Angelina fibers that have really caught my interest however.

Finer than Crystalina and suitable for all ranges of hook size, I am blending it with natural furs using a coffee grinder, then retying many of the patterns I use substituting the Angelina blend instead of the normal mixture.

The 49er’s lost, but I gained another dozen flies to fish

The results are stunning as even traditional patterns get a dramatic face lift. More importantly, it adds a full range of color spectrum due to the opalescent sheen.

Coffee grinder blending requires that all fur added be no more than an inch in length, any longer and the fibers will wrap around the center spindle and bind the motor, quickly burning it out.

I needed to replenish some Gold Ribbed Hare’s Ear’s and mixed a blend of Red Fox squirrel guard hairs, muskrat fur (because I had a ton of it on the skin) and 20% Angelina.

The raw Angelina is about 4-6 inches in length, so I trimmed it into the grinder along with muskrat shaven off the hide with scissors. You have to wad the material down into the blades to get it to mix well, but it only takes seconds to make a batch.

It’s personal preference, I would rather use blends of fur rather than a uniform dyed color. Bugs are an uneven coloration especially when tumbling in the water column, so I prefer having multiple colors and textures in fur for nymphs. Dry flies are not so much an issue as the fish can’t inspect much more than the portion visible to them.

80% Muskrat and 20% Angelina fiber

The opalescence of the Angelina fiber really adds quite a few colors without dominating the result. Mixing much more than 20% of the fibers will have start to overwhelm the original dressing, I was just looking to give a little sparkle and solidify my proof of concept.

I like to use a base complement of nymph colors and sizes when fishing. Black, Olive, Gray, Pheasant Brown, and something mostly peacock. Those 5 colors should seduce something in any stream, and should cover most species of freshwater fish.

I have to order additional colors to make all those blends, in the meantime I am focusing on the natural mother of pearl fiber to see how it looks when added to traditional flies.                                                      

Angelina imbued Hare’s Ear

The photo is inadequate to capture the colors, but it hints at the effect. A stellar replacement for seal fur as the sparkle of “Angie” makes seal look dull in comparison.

Us bachelors lack ironing skills, fusing the fibers with an iron is next, if soft enough it should make dramatic spinner wings. I’ll be abusing the flies to see how the material stands up to use and whether the refraction qualities grow dull with sunlight. Hungry small fish won’t be much of a test, but it’s close by.

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We’re re-tying everything, Angelina Fibers has our creativity working overtime

Click to enlargeWhite lab coat time, as I’m fiddling with one of those materials you stumble across whose possibilities are virtually endless.

It’s a strange synthetic filament called Angelina. It is soft enough to dub like fur, and long enough to use as fine hair, it can be ironed to make bug wings (heat fuses the filaments together) or chopped up and mixed with dubbing to add an opalescent sparkle.

It is available as a fiber from the garment industry, apparently it’s also available as a cloth and as a thread.

It’s something that you can use in everything, especially during them long winter months when experimentation coupled with football and strong coffee brings your artistic side to the forefront.

It looks exactly like hair made out of mother of pearl, yet the filament size is so fine you can dub it onto a hook like fur.  It is available in about 45 colors and 2 cuts; straight, and crimped, bondable (heat fused) and non-bondable. The crimped style is slightly heavier hair than the straight version (large nymphs, steelhead flies), straight is perfect for dubbing smaller nymphs and even dry fly bodies. Every color retains the opalescent quality in addition to the coloration.

Click to EnlargeMy camera cannot show the opal refractive qualities as it just isn’t good enough. I dubbed a #12 hook shank with Angelina fibers, white and pink, allowing you to see the fiber size. Click on both pictures to see a higher resolution image.

Angelina is sold in 1/2 oz. packages, a bundle of material 5″ long, 3.5″ wide, and almost 2″ thick. Cost ranges from $3.50 to $4.50 a package.

Most of the vendors pictures are as poor as mine, included are links to some sites that display a large range of colors.

This may be what they’re calling “Ice Dubbing” but not having seen that product I cannot say with certainty. If so, buying it in this flavor will be a lot cheaper than the little packages available at the fly shop.

Get the Angelina Straight Cut in whatever color you like best, it has the widest range of applications as it is the finest filament size. I purchased some sample packages (5 colors each) from Embellishment Village.

Imitation & Impressionism, now let’s introduce Physics

It surely doesn't look like much, the test is tomorrow I am whipping together some flies for tomorrow’s Brownline Tarpon session, still giddy from today’s success. I left four flies in bull rushes or fish and realized I was getting low on the physical properties needed.

Huh? Just tie more of what worked and be done with it, right?

If I had been fishing a hatch of specific insects that’s precisely what I would do, but instead of fish feeding selectively – they were feeding period.

A cigarette butt that sank fast enough would’ve worked just as well. I would love to say that a #4 Olive Wooly Bugger is the pre-nuptial form of the Giganticus Ephemerella Sativa, but it’s not – and I’m no genius for getting a hungry fish to eat either.

I scared you from tying with the road-kill piece, now let me explain why tying pays off:

  • I need a fly that sinks fast, but not too fast as the maximum depth is about 5 feet.
  • I need it to look like food
  • I need to oversize the hook relative to the fly size, so that I get a solid chunk of fish mouth, and a heavier wire hook. A 10lb fish on a trout hook is asking for trouble, these fish go up to 15-17lbs.

You’ll be able to find something suitable at the store, but nothing beats the ability to customize flies for a specific situation. Of the above, the oversized hook is the most important, it will pay for itself every time you turn the fish and see that little tiny hook in that really big mouth. The only time you’ll pray more fervently is the Dentist’s Office – just as soon as the high pitched whine of his drill filters into the reception area…

The pictures depict what I tied; neutral/dark buggy looking critter with a flashabou rib and a copper bead.

A half dozen should handle a quick outing

A slender profile assists the sink rate, as does the oversized hook and copper bead. A light flashabou rib (3 turns) gives a little sparkle. Guard hairs from the black rabbit offer a hint of movement, but most important is the wider gape and stronger steel offered by the #12 hook. The fly body is tied to be a #14 fly.

Tailoring the flies sink rate allows me to use the cast to determine what depth the fly reaches when it passes near the target fish. Casting close to the target yields shallow, casting further away allows the fly to get much deeper.

I don’t think the fly pattern matters at all, but the fish has the final say, and unlike the magazines they’re always right.

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Sordid Confessions of a Tertiary Stage Fly Tier

I'll leave this one, thanks What is really needed is a rehab clinic for fly tiers that have entered that hideous tertiary phase…some polite nurse behind the counter to welcome the twitching wreck of a man that brakes for road kill.

I admit nothing, and removing the taxidermy kit from the back seat would be a good first step, but like all addicts, I talk a better line than I practice.

It always starts innocent enough, driving a back road enjoying the evening and a flash of color by the center line has me applying brakes, frantic downshifting, and a drag chute. Safely off the pavement its time for a furtive glance in both directions and then check the latest offering of the Asphalt Gods.

Any real tier worth his salt can tell sex, species, approximate the decay level, cross reference it with his mental inventory, and determine value – before he locks the brakes up.

We’re sicko’s, masterless ronin, owing allegiance to nothing, other than the knowledge that steel belted radial season is open year round. The real trick is getting the game processed so’s not spend the next decade in some gladiator academy, protecting our hindquarters.

The same mantra applies when your dimwit neighbor shows up with a dripping carcass, you mentioned the “fur and feathers” thing, granted it was after the third beer, now there’s blood dripping on your doormat, it’s time to fish, not just cut bait.

Needs no explanationBirds are easy, the skin is loosely connected to the rest of the critter, and even a dull Buck knife can quickly cape or remove the portions that you want. To complete the task just scrape any fat off the skin, and then stretch the cape feather side down on a piece of cardboard box. The skin will dry and harden within a couple of days. Oil will seep out – the more fat left on the skin, the more oil – but this can be wiped away during the drying process. Cornmeal applied to the skin will absorb all oil, and not be toxic to your dog, after he inhales the cape off your tying bench.

Hides are more complex, as they have much more connective tissue attaching them to the host animal. Same rules apply, you need to scrape all the fat off the back of the hide, then tack it up (hair side down)stretched onto a cardboard surface. Hides take a lot longer to dry as they are much thicker, and can contain much more sinew and fat.

If you engage in this behavior, remember that Mrs. McGillicutty will take a dim view of you pelting her tabby on the lawn. It won’t matter how legitimate the kill was – or who done it, you’re toast.

Ditto for all birds and mammals in or out of season, you are culpable and will be ticketed if you attempt to take any animal parts from the roadside. It’s a fair assumption, that might be a high value target and you may have swerved intentionally.

In California, all road kill of size is picked up by the California Department of Transportation and incinerated. Their concern is the health risk; all animals have ticks, fleas, and assorted blood sucking things attached to them when alive. Most will quickly depart a corpse, but you’re at risk for whatever may be present, including rabies and assorted other maladies.

I’m just prepping you for the time when you round the bend of the river and allegedly spot a Great Blue Heron in pristine condition, cold as stone. I’ll let you wrestle with the moral and criminal repercussions on your own.

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Substitute Freely, and Get Used to It

polar_bear Climate change and vanishing polar ice has the polar bear caught in the crosshairs. Scientists are predicting it’s demise within the next 40 years.

Polar bear fur has always been highly prized by fly tiers and it’s likely this news will send them into a paroxysm of frantic accumulation. Fly tiers enjoy the same dichotomy as religious scientists, their job promotes the Big Bang, their beliefs are a different animal.

Restrictions on Polar bear fur have existed since 1970, any sale is risky as there are many rules and restrictions. Rugs taken before 1970 and sold at estate sales or auctions must be accompanied with legal documentation or the seller is at risk of fines and imprisonment.

In chatting with local US Fish and Wildlife officers, flies containing Polar Bear hair are not legal to sell in any form.

Many Years of Tears, Head Cement and Grindage Coming

Old FaithfulFly Tying is one of those rare disciplines blending art and science. An endless source of frustration and pleasure, interspersed with fits of genius, artistic tantrum, and drudge.

There are really only three types of fly tiers; Beginners, Experts, and Opinionated, and like any art form is replete with sub-schools, trends, false prophets, and is always on the brink of total revolution. New materials are always the catalyst for change, with much of the old thrown out and whatever is “new” trumpeted as the one true path.

Somewhere in all of this is the aspiring tier, surrounded by Bibles, dusty tomes, and countless magazines, usually without the materials cited by the prestigious authors, and hanging somewhere near financial insolvency, trying to keep pace.

You’ve completed the introductory and intermediate fly tying courses offered by your local club or shop, and are now left to your own devices to plod your way to your Brown and Black belts. You have an awful lot of mind numbing repetition to endure before your flies resemble those you’re using as models. There is no fast path to competency, but there are many things that you can focus on during apprenticeship to make it less onerous and more engaging.

Material Shortcomings

The material problem will always be present, half of the new fly patterns you’ll read about are “new” only because of the use of some revolutionary material, guaranteeing if you?re using magazines as inspiration, you’ll be making frequent trips to the fly shop.

New materials are a given in this craft, as synthetics slowly replace all of the exotic birds and beasts we’ve used in the past. In many cases the synthetics are much superior to the original – only Luddites and old guys with a lifetime supply to mourn their passing.

At this stage of your indoctrination you may believe tying an Adam’s without the proper materials will yield a fly less successful. Not true, all you’ve done is invent a new fly, no thunderbolt will strike you dead, no crime has been committed, and fish will eat your Adam’s minus Grizzly hackle just as fast as they’ll eat the normal pattern.

The only difference between what you’re tying and what a professional ties, is how many fish it will handle before exploding. That talent you’ll acquire as part of the mindless repetition part. Substitute freely, and throw the result in your fly box, as nothing beats the thrill of duping a fish with something you invented.

What Works, Good Design Principles

Elk Hair Caddis, Impressionism at its bestSolid construction and good design are your immediate goals. Construction is learned through understanding the limits and proportions of fly tying. Limits are inflexible and exceeding them will weaken the finished fly.

There is only a finite segment of hook shank that is flat and level, exceeding that will cause tails to point downward, or hook eyes to be filled with hackle barbules and cement. Later when fishing and the fish have a sudden weakness for Pheasant Tail nymphs, your last one can’t be threaded on the leader…that is a crime.

Proportions are similar to limits, but they are flexible. Fly components are measured by hook gape, or shank length, depending on how your instructor or favorite book taught you. Tail length can be shortened or lengthened without compromising construction, so proportions are guides, not inflexible limits.

On rare occasion the properties of a tying material will make proportion a limit. Duck Quill wings on traditional dry flies are a great example, the material is both fragile and rigid, absorbing head cement like a sponge. Once dry they can easily spin a 7X tippet like a rubber band during false casts, especially if oversized. Beautiful to look at but poorly designed for fishing.

You look at your latest handy work, an Adam’s with no Grizzly hackle and your hackle tip wings are at different heights. What do you do? You put it in your fly box. Trout’s eyes are mounted on the sides of their heads, much of their visual plane is monocular vision (only one eye can see the object), if it’s hungry your wings won’t matter.

Coming Out : Imitation versus Impressionism

Stonefly Nypmph by Hatchmasters.caThis will be your first significant test as a fly tyer, this is where you will vacillate uncontrollably, dipping your toe first in one, then the other – trying to find who and what you believe in. No author or magazine can help you, this is the test of tyer-as-artist, and likely you will see merit in both camps, but will slowly trend towards one or the other as your craft matures.

Imitation is exactly what it implies, you prefer crafting replicas of actual insects, and as a fisherman you believe them to be more effective than generalist patterns. Isn’t this the reason why you wanted to learn to tie flies, so that you could have better more exacting choices?

Real insects are hard and shiny as they wear their “skeleton” on the outside, imitation often leads to the use of synthetic or shiny materials to simulate the real bug. Compensate for the lifeless and hard materials with some that add movement or motion. The photograph is motionless, but the real bug squirms and wriggles, it is a living insect you are duplicating, not the photo.

 Flies catch more than fish, flies catch fishermen too. All of us are guilty of the “..if I were a fish I would eat that” logic, which probably hinders us more than helps, as we have no idea what trout think. One thing is true, exacting imitations are pure sex, we want them bad, and the entire angling industry panders to our obsession, with our paycheck the obvious victim.

Impressionism is simulation of an insect, roughly matched to shape, size and color, but with little detail. Impressionistic flies may be general enough to represent all three aquatic food groups with a single pattern, with only the hook size changing. Other flies may acknowledge a damselfly has three paddle shaped gills as a tail with a tuft of marabou, the expression that the damsel has a more substantial tail than a mayfly, but it is not copied beyond that.

This is the fun part, where your experiences are married with the practical and the theoretical, where myth is confirmed and legend can be discarded, it’s the crucible where “your” flies are born.

Which path you prefer is inconsequential, you can fiddle with materials, you have license to alter proportions, you can make flies that resemble nothing, everything, or something – and you’ll be catching fish with all of them.

Fly Tying, the Craft is not the Art

The fly tiers pinnacle, the Atlantic Salmon full dressFly tying craft is disguising a hook by imitating common fish food for use with rod and reel. Fly tying art is the rigor of perfecting these techniques to produce flies worthy of framing, or showcasing the talents of the tier, never to  be used in anger.

At times it’s tough to distinguish between the two, the lines are fluid making it difficult for an apprentice tyer to gauge progress. Much of your angling is reduced to a few trips per year, and the confirmation of your flies effectiveness will not be regular. Magazines and books are constant companions at the tier’s bench, and what you create will be compared to the photographs they contain, it’s important to distinguish art from craft, and to compare apples with apples.

A talented tier can create flies that ignore all proportion, stretch known limits, are extremely difficult to tie, and require exotic materials. It also may take them 3 or more hours to tie that fly, it represents art of the highest form, but can be confused with functional patterns by the unwary.

Putting it all together, the Art of Domestic Bliss

Every rule of fly tying has been broken by flies that are the exception. All limits shattered, all proportion thrown by the wayside, and herein lies sanctuary. The most important rule is do they work, not are they beautiful.

Fish are stupid, have poor vision, and are not vocal, they’ll never sing your praises.

You will have to tie many thousands of flies before proportion and construction are second nature. During all this time, you will evolve many theories, you will read many more, some may hold water and some may not.

Collect real bugs from your favorite streams and imitate them with the materials at hand, forget about what you don’t own, use what you have. Every fly you tie hones your construction skills, even if it never sees action.

A small coffee grinder used with a skein of yellow, red, and blue yarn, can yield every color in the rainbow, chop the segments shorter than an inch, and use the Artist’s Color Wheel to make your fur colors. Fly tying is actually many disciplines, some not related to fishing at all.

Test materials and flies in your bathtub, learn what adds life and motion, and what makes your fly ride upside down. You will find that physics and proportion are tied together, you can take license with proportion knowing what the physical change will be in its aerodynamic or fishing qualities.

America’s Poster Children for Domestic BlissExploit the materials available to you, leverage your friends. Do you hunt ducks? Does your neighbor? More importantly, does your neighbor notice the bald spot on his Airedale? Be wary, as 20 lbs of fresh killed deer hide will have to be treated immediately, right after you resuscitate your wife…

Fly tying is a mess maker hobby, filled with odiferous and objectionable items. You will need special storage arrangements to retain domestic bliss. Rotting flesh and moth infestations will be unpopular, seal everything separately to minimize infestation and odor, and use incense cedar rather than mothballs, as moth crystals smell equally bad. Open drawers mean your dog is eating your purple buck tail, or your child is reaching for the porcupine. Be alert that everyone in the household may not share your passion.

You need to address the storage issue almost immediately, and with a permanent furniture purchase. An old vanity table and a chest of drawers will work, both are garage sale fodder, tear the top off the desk and build a new larger work surface. Line both with incense cedar slats from the hardware store. To be allowed into your house, refinish both, as a $25 garage sale purchase can turn into something much better looking if sanded and finished properly.

After all this, you will be confronted by many critics that will find fault with your finest work. Most will have their paws in your fly box to assist you in “lightening” it, but the real critic is the trout, stay focused and please the fish first. Remember you started this bestial trek thinking you would catch more fish, and you are much further along than you think.

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Bird’s Nest History, and How One Man’s Soup is Another Man’s Fly

Spectral Bird’s NestI mentioned the “Bird’s Nest” fly in last nights post, I had the privilege of knowing Calvert Bird years ago when it was created. Cal was one of the most singular and gentle fellows I’ve ever known, he had a weakness for coffee and wreath cake, which I exploited unmercifully.

All of Cal’s well known flies are generalist patterns, you won’t find individual legs, or precise structure that limits the fly to a single genus and species; Cal was a trained artist, a calligrapher by trade, and his artistic skills imbued all of his work.

Cal had retired and lived across the street from Frank Matarelli, the “father” of all of the fly tying tools we use today. Watching that pair in action was always a treat, as gentle and soft spoken as Cal was, Frank was strident and bellicose. They often collaborated, Cal would fiddle with Frank’s tools, and Frank would berate Cal for using them wrong, or some other imagined offense.

The Bird’s Nest pattern was invented around 1984. Cal tested the fly on trips to Hat Creek, and handed them with a knowing wink to his friends, “Try these,” was all he would say.

The original pattern was a precise blend of fur not seen in today’s commercial versions. 50% gray Australian Opossum, 40% Hare’s Mask (with guard hairs intact) and 10% Natural baby Seal fur. Cal preferred the heavily barred Teal flank feathers for the hackle, these were dyed with RIT Maple Sugar cloth dye.

The rear of the fly was left naturally unruly, the combination of the guard hairs, coarse seal fur, and Australian Opossum was untamable. The head of the fly was combed with the male side of Velcro, to increase the visible spike of the hair, and merge it with the teal flank.

The hackle was also applied differently, Cal would cut the center out of a flank feather and strip back the balance, leaving a small “chevron” of flank feather on each side. The amount depended on the size of the finished fly, perhaps a 1/4″ for small flies, 1/2″ for larger #8’s and above. He would press one side onto the fly with his thumb, and would use the thread to distribute the fibers. As the thread circled the far side of the fly, he would press the remaining teal close to the shank with his forefinger, then allow the thread to distribute the fibers along the far side and belly of the fly.

The fly originally debuted in two flavors, Natural (the fly we use today) and Spectral.

The Color WheelThe Spectral Bird’s Nest was pure artist. Formal art training introduces the Artist’s Color Wheel, all colors are mixed from only three; Red, Yellow, and Blue. Secondary colors are mid-way between primaries, mix yellow and blue to get green, red and yellow to get orange, red and blue yields purple.

To get the Spectral Bird’s Nest, Cal used the Australian Opossum / Hare’s Ear base, and replaced the 10% natural seal, with 10% comprised of red, yellow, blue, orange, green, and purple, seal. All of the primary and secondary colors on the color wheel.

He would press a couple into your hand, with, “Fish see whatever they want with these.”

It is one of the best all-round searching flies I’ve used, and I can find no reference to it anywhere. Today’s tiers can substitute any coarse synthetic for the seal, it must be unruly enough to stick out from the Opossum/Hare’s Mask blend – as seal does. The completed fly should have “guard hairs” of colored fiber sticking out of the grey base, not buried in the gray where it will not be seen.

Spectral Bird’s Nest HiRez image

I have a date with an effluent creek, see you on the “Brownline” …

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