Category Archives: Fly Fishing

Hobie ProAngler kayak

A Big Step for a Wading Angler, Contemplating the Move to an Angling Kayak

Fly fishing from a kayak is a welcome transition for the heretofore shore bound angler, as many of the issues that haunt slippery rocks and low hanging branches vanish with the mobility that boating offers. There are also many new hazards you’ll encounter and many tendencies that must be left on shore where they belong.

Getting Your Mind Right, dealing with Hoarding Instincts

hoardingThe only storage constraint on the wading angler is the capacity of his fishing vest. The practice of wadding everything into a maze of pockets to resupply the angler afield has morphed into a garment carrying old sandwiches, partially consumed protein bars, fly boxes, foam floats, rain ponchos, snakebite kits, tippet spools, insect repellant and the obligatory snarl of toilet paper.

These hoarding instincts we learned early as doting parents insisted our “angling empire” fit into one tackle box, later one fly box, and culminating into one overly warm car trunk, or closet.

While there are many kinds of kayaks and all with different options, angling kayaks offer the illusion that you can increase the amount of gear carried as the boat does the physical lifting instead of you. Suddenly that onboard storage sprouts neo-essentials like; extra drinks, dry clothes, spare spools, baby diapers (from a prior adventure) and a backup rod, and you must resist this hoarding instinct – as it will be your undoing.

The size and weight of your boat will influence where it can be launched. Longer kayaks are faster in the water but can be heavier on land. Wheel assemblies can be added to most kayaks to equip them for pavement, dirt, or beach sand, and assist the launching process tremendously. The wrong wheel type makes the launch extra burdensome, as thin narrow pavement wheels will dig into mud or sand and make the boat hard to move. New or strange lakes offer unknown launch scenarios and our Western states are in a multi-year drought, complicating matters further. As lake levels recede due to drought, the distance between parking area and the water’s edge increases. Man made lakes are typically steep “bowls” designed to as much water as possible, so it’s not a long, level walk to the water’s edge – it’s a sloping downhill slide with your kayak threatening to alternately run you over or drag you downhill.

Complicating things further is the composition of the newly exposed slope, which is often alternating bands of decomposing rock, loose soil, and shale. As you near the water include weeds and scrub growth, as well as sand and mud, ensuring your footing and launch are a mix of dicey and downright treacherous.

Fortunately, the easy part is getting the boat downhill … Gravity is a willing accomplice and while strenuous, rolling the boat down to the water’s edge gives you an invisible helper.

The return trip is another story…

After a long day on the water you have a physical and arduous climb UPHILL to the car. Cart wheels will fight you on every rock and root, dig deep into mud or loose cobble, and your footing will be uncertain due to loose shale and gravel, making that 100 yard trek back to the pavement nothing short of heart pounding torture. Adding to the mix is all the water you added into the hull via pedal motor housing, or simply slopping it into the boat via flopping fish and exuberance.

Many launch scenarios may have your boat out of sight of the parking lot. Multiple trips to offload gear could find you leaving the boat filled with valuable tackle, cameras, and other expensive items undefended, in a high traffic area like a day use area or beach. You need to keep your boat light enough to handle the return all gear to your vehicle in a single trip.

Be frugal with gear. Consult the dry weight of the boat and remember you will be adding food, drinks, tackle, anchors, drink holders, floatation devices, and many things you have no expectations of owning … fish finders (containing transducers, batteries, and cable), anchor trollies, milk crates, rod holders, onboard wheel assemblies, and assorted cordage, cable ties, and pool noodles.

Traditional paddling kayaks (sit inside kayaks) are light with many 12 foot models only 50-65 pounds. Angling kayaks (sit on top kayaks) can weigh twice that as they contain many amenities unnecessary to a paddle kayak. Seats, storage, battery harness, cable controls, and pulleys all add extra weight, and boats can weigh over 100 pounds dry.

My Hobie ProAngler 360 kayak is 12 feet long and weighs 105 (2020 weight, 2022 weight is 109.5) pounds empty. It is the “leaden battleship” of angling kayaks, not due to its size – rather due to its features and ability to expand via the Hobie Rail System. Assume you’re carrying nearly 40 pounds of tackle, 10 pounds of anchors, cordage and landing nets, a couple of rods, 5 pounds of drinks and food and all the leashes, tethers, and floatation devices (PFD), and you’re likely to tip the scales at 160-170 pounds, counting the inboard water. This is not a trivial burden on a thirty degree slope with uncertain footing …

You need to remain vigilant on what you add to your kayak, and you need to unload items unique to a specific trip on your return – so they don’t add unnecessary weight to your boat. Lowrance and similar fish finders are easily mounted to your new kayak, but do you really need to know there are fish fifty feet below you? Fishing a jig, fifty feet is nothing, fishing a fly and that same fifty feet is an insurmountable depth.

I carry a thermometer instead. I can check water temperature as needed, and while it’s not as convenient as on a Hummingbird screen, it is a hell of a lot lighter.

I can’t tell you which kayak is best – neither can the staff that sell them ..

There are many really good angling kayaks, most run between $1500 –$5000, which is significant cost, nearly all are worth every penny spent.

There is no “best” kayak, there is however a “best” kayak tailored to you, your needs, and the uniqueness of your fishing. Some will use them in both freshwater and salt, some in still water only, some for fly and spinning, some will troll, some in estuary or riverine environments, all will be stable and seaworthy craft, but the features you need for fly fishing are not obvious …

Pick your new kayak based on its power plant, its ability to reverse direction (instant reverse), and extensibility. These are unquestionably the most important features for fly fishermen.

Power Plant: Pedal versus Paddle: Both work, but one seems tailored to fly fishing

Propeller200Fly fishing is a uniquely “hand intensive” fishing style. We require constant contact with the rod and line to cast, mend, gather, and impart motion to the fly. Paddle kayaks require two hands gripping the kayak paddle, pedal kayaks are powered by an angler’s legs, leaving both hands free to cast or strip while the boat is under power.

Personal Opinion ** : My personal opinion is that pedal kayaks are best suited for fly fishermen, as they offer the unique ability to cast and move at the same time. Paddle kayaks are fine for fly fishing, but you have to lay down the rod to move any distance, and you’re constantly swapping rod and paddle, allowing running line to catch on all manner of things in the boat as you paddle to adjust your attitude towards shore or target. You WILL drop things in the water if you fish enough, do you want to risk your rod to the Briny Deep?

Pedal kayaks have two basic styles of motion; pedaling a propellor-equipped or pedaling a fin equipped motor for locomotion.  Hobie uses “fins” to move the boat, all of the other manufacturers use the more traditional propellor for locomotion.

Regardless of the style of pedal motion, the core issue is your ability to snag the drive with your fly – or run over your fly line with the boat and get it tangled with the prop, and the motor’s ability to kick up when hitting an underwater object. Hobie fins have a hinge allowing them to fold up when striking an underwater object and restore themselves to the original configuration on the next power stroke. Prop drives have the ability to “kick up” in the same manner, but not all of them can do so, so it’s something to check on the boat, model, and manufacturer you’re contemplating.

You will hit underwater objects especially when you forget to retract the motor when landing the boat, or when you loan the craft to your idjit pal.

I have snagged my rudder, skeg, and fins while fishing, and it is problematic – but not overly so. You will learn to keep your fly line away from the boat as wind and pedaling can move the boat over your fly line and fly quickly. A tangle in the running line – or a few turns of loose line snagged on something inside the boat cockpit, and you risk getting the fly and line under the boat if under power. Recently, I disabled my rudder by snagging a large striper fly in the hinge and had to land the boat to remove the fly and restore rudder function.

With practice you will learn to stop your pedal motion and pause before casting. Kayaks are quite graceful in the water, and the boat will continue to move forward for 20 feet or so when you stop pedaling. Releasing your cast as the boat loses forward momentum means you do not roll over the line and do not have to frantically strip to catch up to the fly.

Instant Reverse: Floating Physics and the unique complications of kayak fly casting

Hobie360A traditional “sit on top” fishing kayak has the angler seated about two thirds of the way down the boat towards the stern. The angler is a “sail-like” object, so his profile and its resistance to wind will add motion to the boat in any breeze.

If the wind is behind the angler the boat will drift forward, wind in front, boat will drift backward, etc. Motion of the boat will add drag to the fly, or make it move twice as fast as intended, given how the boat can swing in circles due to its “off center sail”. A fly fisherman will need to constantly adjust his attitude to his fly, as the boat can move in any direction at any time.

This is markedly different from the wading angler, who remains motionless while adjusting the line between him and the fly.

“Instant reverse” describes the ability to change the boat’s direction quickly, and has multiple flavors among the many kayak manufacturers. Because of the vagrancies of wind on the angler, instant reverse will be among the top three issues of your fly fishing experience, as you will be constantly adjusting the boat and its angle to the fly or shoreline.

Hobie kayaks have multiple flavors of reverse on their pedal kayaks, those that use the 180 drive require you to reach down and pull a cable to initiate reverse (the same to resume forward motion), and the newer 360 drive, which allows the motor to thrust at any angle in a 360 degree arc, requires you to turn a handle to pick the angle of thrust.  Instant reverse then requires the handle to be spun 180 degrees to go backward, and returned 180 degrees to resume forward motion.

Propellor kayaks only require you to stop pedaling forward and pedal backward to reverse boat motion. Prop driven kayaks are superior to all others in this regard – and in my estimation are the only kayaks that offer true “instant reverse.”

I’ve not owned the propellor flavor, but having spent four seasons on a Hobie 360 – I am quite comfortable turning the handle while the boat is under power (as the rudder handle and motor thrust handle sit atop one another). The 360 Drive offers other mobility features superior to propellor kayaks as the drive thrust allows it to be turned without moving the boat forward, which is a huge advantage in tight quarters (think maneuvering in snags, docks, and chasing largemouth bass).

Personal Opinion**: Propellor based kayaks have true instant reverse, and in my estimation are superior to all others save paddle kayaks, which also have human powered “instant reverse” (typically preceded by the exclamation, “Oh, sh*t” …). The Hobie crank handle is fine, it’s simply not hand’s free like the propellor flavor. You never can have too many hands when managing fly line, boat motion, and sharp things flying in your direction …

Extensibility and all the gadgetry (weight) therein

One of the more important features in kayak selection is what extensions and capabilities can be added via third party. Hobie kayaks use a proprietary “H-Rail” system to attach additional features and connectivity to the boat. Their “H Rail” can be adapted to other standards via Scotty mounts, or RailBlaza Starport mounts. These connections to the boat allow you to add additional features that don’t come with the boat like fish finders, storage, GoPro Camera masts, rod holders, and dozens of other gadgets.

Hobie produces a generic plate mount attachment that allows you to modify, screw, or glue anything you wish to their hexagonal rail attachment, think Boom Box or similar outlandish need. Railblaza makes a similar, rotating platform attachment that is pre-drilled and can be modified, other vendors offer similar functionality.

Whichever kayak you fancy, ensure it has ample extensibility or you will regret the purchase. Not knowing what’s needed in the future or how your angling will change with a job related relocation, the extensibility of your kayak will determine how soon you outgrow it or whether that will happen.

When reviewing watercraft, determine which type of mounts and rails come native to the craft. Many of these can be added to older boats but require drilling holes in the hull, which adds additional issues with sealants, leaks, and the potential to weaken the craft via extensive modification. If you’re not being gifted a kayak or the sudden beneficiary of some similar freebie, I would recommend the purchase of a kayak that contains rails built into the superstructure or hull. The manufacturer choice I’ll leave to you, but get something allowing you to add to the base craft via supported mounts.

As other family members are likely to use your craft and don’t share your passion for fly fishing, the ability to add a drink holder or trolling rod holder may be highly desirable. Kayaks are a pleasant way to enjoy the out-of-doors and you don’t need to be a Purist to enjoy a comfortable seat, warm sun,  and a “stroll” around the lake. In fact, the “smart” lad will market the purchase as a “family friendly” non-gas guzzling, Green Initiative – as the price tag for The Beast will have to be negotiated.

There are other ways to add capabilities to your kayak, most are tailored to the specific craft or extensibility it offers; rails versus mounts, etc. I will cover some ways to modify the Hobie when I write about the specific configuration I employ on my 12’ Hobie ProAngler 360.

Leashes and the need to strap everything down

Kayaks are tippy regardless of their size, and like canoes, standing up risks a bath. Kayaks are flat bottomed and lack a keel, so an aggressive lean to see or grab a fish coupled with a broadside wave strike and you could flip your boat instantly. Most angling kayaks are stable, and their stability increases with length, but the threat of an unexpected dunking is quite real, especially if you do something stupid.

Big fish make people stupid.

So does alcohol.

… as does that 24’ ski barge that rounded the point filled with liquored up Millennials … whose wake is about to sink you.

Everything you bring onto the boat must be securely stored via locked hatch or leashed to the superstructure with a lead designed for that purpose. This means once the hull storage is full, each item must be attached individually to the boat if you want to keep it. Paddle, Landing Net, Tackle containers, rod, drinks, food, pedal drive, yourself, anchor, absolutely everything not sealed within the hull must be leashed. If the boat flips, and it will, everything will disappear into the depths or float away while you scramble to get back aboard.

I am leashed to the rail as well. This way the boat cannot move more than six feet from me once I tumble into the water.

My Hobie ProAngler has restraints for extra rods that hold spinning or casting rods tight to the hull. These will not work for fly rods as fly rod pieces are too numerous and slender. I will lose my rod if I tip the boat and relinquish my grip on the handle.

So be it.

Your pedal drive and paddle are the only means of locomotion for the boat. I leash both to the Hobie rail, as the paddle is the backup to the pedal drive and I need at least one to make it back to shore.

My landing net is leashed to the hull in similar fashion and has more than one use in the boat. As it’s likely to be in your other hand when landing a big fish, and that fish could make me forget prudence, it will be lost if I roll the boat with the rod in the other hand. Hence the leash.

I reserve the hull storage for the expensive stuff. Lures and Plugs for largemouth when casting or spin fishing, first aid kit to stop bleeding and bandage the hook punctures, waterproof container with wallet and car keys, and all those tiny packages of split shot, strike indicators, fly boxes, GoPro batteries,  leader spools, and hook hones. (I will elaborate on this configuration in future articles tuned to my specific craft.)

Your rod is the only wild card in this mix, as a leash is unwieldy due to the casting motion. I opt not to leash my rod and recognize the potential for its loss.

If you wish to keep it, it must be attached to the boat.

There is no exception.

No FIshing Vests needed

stohlquist300Sudden immersion is a shock, and while you recover and begin to tread water – are you going to reach for the boat or your rod as it disappears into the water?

If you’re not leashed to the boat and there’s a stiff breeze your kayak will be moving to windward as soon as you hit the water. By the time you resurface it might be eight or ten feet distant, and if you’re in deep water you might be in trouble.

To hell with the rod, you go for the boat as it may be the only thing between you and drowning.

You must wear a Personal Floatation Device (PFD) in your kayak as the risk of flipping climbs with the popularity of the waterway, inclement weather, big tides, and drunken boaters. Choose a vest that is designed for swimming, not one designed for the crowd that frequents big party barges and hang on the cabin wall unused. California boating regulations require all kayakers to wear a PFD equipped with a whistle for alerting other boaters. As the PFD will preclude the use of a fishing vest, you will need to design a new tackle storage solution that allows the same freedom of access as a vest, yet will be leashed to the boat (with all zippers closed) when not in use. (I will describe my system in a future article on Hobie configuration).

Your PFD can have floatation around your shoulders but make sure it doesn’t have any in the lower back area. Any padding near the lower back and waist will interfere with your boat seat and your posture, making the seat less comfortable.

I opted for a Stohlquist Fisherman, as it had a few extra pockets, no padding on the lower back, and is of the “swimming” style.  These can be pricey, but being a life saving device is worth every penny.

If you use the boat in salt water many anglers stuff the kayak with pool noodles to allow additional buoyancy. The assumption is that the closed cell foam will ensure the kayak floats if upside down or full of water, giving you something to cling to while you BLEAT frantically on your attached whistle ..

Polypropylene is your friend. Poly won’t absorb water, so clothing that is windproof, rain resistant, and made from Polypropylene will provide additional safety. Big woolen sweaters, Levi jeans, and layered cotton shirts are all barriers for wind and cold, but they will absorb many pounds of extra water when immersed in the lake. If you flip your boat you will have to get back in it unassisted. If you are away from shore you will need to climb in via the nose or stern, or learn to belly up into the cockpit and pivot into the pedal well. If you have an extra fifty pounds of water in that sweater/jean/shirt/jacket combination it will reduce your ability to lift yourself out of the water and back into the boat.

Buy windproof clothing in bright colors (visibility matters) that doesn’t absorb water. Wear wetsuits in the salt (especially on the West Coast) and leave shoes in the car. Wet suit booties offer both floatation and will not absorb water when soaked and are much superior to shoes or sneakers. Most of your launches will be in muddy terrain and wet shoes and socks put a damper on the day no matter how pleasant the weather and fishing.

You’re more mobile than the fellow with the V8, respect the launch and dock protocols

Gas guzzling V8 owners replete with their spiffy Dodge RAM and attendant entourage actually need the dock to launch – you can shove your boat in the water with less fuss. If you are launching your kayak at a traditional lake launch frequented by big boats on trailers, prepare your boat at your truck and avoid using the dock for anything but the launch.

The standard wheeled cart assembly allows you to load your boat with tackle, clothing and food while at your truck. You can string your rod and place it into the kayak at the same time. Only when you are ready to launch should you move into the path of the dock and motorized launch area. Be polite, courteous and fast. If you are carrying your wheel assembly back to the car then keep your boat to the side with the least traffic, and only do so if the distance is short. These launches are designed for the motorized angler and their ritual requires additional maneuver compared to us kayak types.

Anyone learning to back a boat in the water requires considerable space, so give it to them regardless … never insist on imposing your will on a craft whose wake can swamp you.

This advice is doubly important at the end of the day when the crowd at the dock is liquored up and sunburnt. Don’t risk aggression by dawdling at the launch area with your boat, get it out of the water and into the safety of the parking area before wiping it down or storing gear.

Summary:

The move from wading angler to kayak angler requires money and a lot of thought to established fishing practices. Many of the tendencies developed from years of angling need to be retooled and rethought rather than simply ported to the new craft. Everything you bring onto your boat is a liability and subject to loss, so you need to plan your storage and leash system – and you will require several seasons before the configuration you chose will become second nature, so plan for an evolution of your boating behavior. Closing tackle boxes and zipping up your fly box will be cumbersome and inefficient at first, but losing the entire collection to the lake is far worse – and may even end your trip completely.

Expect to evolve your kayak use, don’t assume it will all go swimmingly despite hours of YouTube review and classes attended.

Keep weight and items to a minimum, especially if you’re in a drought area.

Assume a new or strange lake might have a poor launch facility, one that requires portage of boat and equipment to the water. Try to keep it to a single trip from car to water, if you can’t then prioritize your valuables based on the risks.

Anything not tied to the boat will be lost, that includes you.

Dress for success, avoid items that absorb and retain lots of water.

If forced to comingle with power boats, use the dock sparingly and fast. Do not rig tackle or dawdle. Save the fish stories for the parking area, not the boat dock.

In Spring a Young Man’s thoughts turn to Cloudy Water

Spring is synonymous with the “Great Flush” wherein increased water levels caused by rain and snowmelt sends leaves, branches, empty water bottles, discarded Pandemic masks, and everything not nailed down – into whatever body of water is downstream.

I always seem to run into dirty water regardless of where I’m fishing and am always fiddling with flies attempting to find a solution to their visual appeal being obscured by debris and dirt.

The drought has complicated matters as well. As the water in lakes are drawn down it exposes loose dirt with little vegetation to hold it in place. Wave action caused by wind will stir that mix into a coffee colored slick that will extend it’s plume into the lake from the windward side of every point.

Wind and shallow water are common to both freshwater lakes and the California Delta. Vegetation tends to cleanse dirty water but a drought, coupled with the time of year, weeds are not available. Much of the underwater vegetation dies back during the Fall and Winter months, and the spring flush often empties into lakes whose weeds have not yet started their new cycle. The California Delta has less water level fluctuation and much more resident vegetation but is prone to wind which stirs the water in the shallows – disturbing bottom debris and sediment which quickly discolors water in the surrounding flats.

As fly fishing lacks many of the sensory elements of other types of fishing, like scent or sound, we are at a disadvantage when water conditions are less than ideal. Watching those Pro Bass shows often tempts me into using “Scent of a Thousand Nightcrawlers,” but I’ve resisted thus far only because the oily mess is likely to mat all materials and render flies lifeless and stiff.

Sound is a viable option on flies, but their method of attachment is a bit problematic. Many kinds of rattles exist for the bass jig market and might be adapted to flies with a bit of ingenuity.

The volume of rattle equipped baits on the lure and plug market suggests both lure manufacturers and anglers believe it attractive to predatory fish. As I’ve not read all the science (yet), I’ll assume the mob is onto something and all those rattle equipped lures are something more than a means to separate a fool and his money … and sound is an attribute to a fly in discolored water.

While not expert on sounds emitted by baitfish – it’s likely digestive noises and excess air are present in the innards of anything that isn’t a plant. Water transmits sound readily but I’m unsure whether “bad” noises exist and whether gastric noises or baitfish flatulence is attractive to predators. The act of swimming, either leisurely or frantically, is likely to add vibration (sound) into the water as well. The receptor on a predacious fish is likely its lateral line – as sound is likely transmitted through water as a vibration.

The bigger question is, which sounds and what pitch are triggers for large fish? Big sound, loud or soft, continuous sound or discrete notes?

I’d guess that the species and feeding behavior of the predator adds a unique mix of triggers, and Sailfish may respond to bigger sounds that would send a trout fleeing in terror. Schooling bait likely “sounds” different than a solitary minnow, so part of the mix will vary with the fish sought or imitated by the rattle equipped fly.

rattle700

Rattles exist in a number of options, most are for jigs and bait casting gear. Three basic styles are the dual harness type (XTech), the “Pepper Jig” type – whose rattles fit into a rubber harness akin to a set of Mickey Mouse ears (rattles in the box), and the fly tying rattle (Eye Glass Rattle) – which are shaped like a traditional “barbell” eye, and attached in the same way.

All of these are “dogs with fleas” for the adventurous fly tier. Both the dual harness and the Pepper Jig rattles rely on a rubber element that can be lashed onto a hook with ease. Unfortunately, rubber will oxidize and you might lose the rattle after a season or two. The basic cylinder of the “Pepper” shaped rattle is problematic and bulbous, so securing it to the shank without using the harness is an issue, both in secure attachment and in its interference in tying the actual fly itself.

The “barbell” style rattle eyes have little or no sound as the beads are so tiny, so if it’s the noise you’re after, the fly tying version are essentially worthless. As I am unsure which sounds are most desirable to Striped Bass and Largemouth/Smallmouth, and sound is the solution to combat discolored water, I choose to use the larger beads and noisiest rattles ; the double barbell and/or Pepper Jig flavor.

The physics of rattles has to be considered as well. Rattles create sound as one or more “BB’s” hit either end of a air filled chamber. Air is buoyant  so the larger rattles (containing bigger beads and more trapped air) can alter the buoyancy of the completed fly. Using a double rattle will exacerbate the issue, so it’s prudent to drop your flies in a glass of water to determine whether you’ve affected the rake or pitch of the fly in the water.

I chose to use a single rattle from the dual harness. I trim the harness at the center bulb and tie the stem portion onto the hook shank in the tail position. this allows the bucktail or marabou to flow around the rattle body and hide it within the fly.

It’s worthy to note that both the dual harness and “Pepper Jig” variants can be threaded onto the fly by simply forcing the hole in the center harness over the fly head or onto the leader itself. This offers the ability to add and remove rattles to your existing flies but relies on the elasticity of the plastic to remain securely attached. It’s plain the maker would have chosen a plastic that resists oxidation, as jigs are subject to sunlight as well as flies, but the force of casting the fly coupled with stretching the rubber ring over the hook eye will likely cause it to fail sooner than its traditional use.

645rattleBluegill

On the above “Little Bluegill” you can see the single barrel of the rattle tied in at the tail position. I have spread open the marabou to show the rattle, and when fished the rattle is not visible nor does it seem to affect the fly action. Any buoyancy issues will be overpowered by the lead eyes up front.

Mounting the rattle at the tail keeps it from obstructing the gape of the hook. Threading rattles onto the leader or eye means the barrels have the ability to dangle below the fly and may cause some issues with hook setting on smaller hooks. I trimmed the tether short to keep the barrel up tight to the shank of the hook rather than allowing it to sag to one side or the other.

Marabou striper flies fully loaded with water are already heavy things to hurl, so I didn’t notice issues with the increased weight. A fully loaded 2/0 is about as aerodynamic as a small school bus, so wear protective gear regardless.

8lbStriper700

I fished Sherman Island just after two days of blustery wind last week and managed to score a single eight pound striper. The water was noticeably dirty from all the wind activity and while I cannot say it was the rattle that seduced the slimy SOB, I’d like to think I outwitted him on his own turf ..

More testing is required to prove anything however. I am scouring the Internet to see if there is any scientific work on the subject, that can translated from Latin into English, as I am interested on how pitch and tone might attract or repel – and whether I can manufacture something suitable to confirm any theories on this subject.

In the meantime, enjoy fiddling with these options most are available from any shops catering to lure and jig making.

I plan on using the same flies for Largemouth to see if they aid in catching fish on the muddy plumes of water that come off the points in the afternoon. Wind traditionally makes an appearance in early afternoon, and my wandering about on the bank has revealed that schools of Threadfin Shad use these plumes as cover from predators, foraging with relative impunity .. Dragging my fly out of such a plume might trigger something to dine, and I do so love to share my flies with things smaller than me…

I consider it a draw

The Striped Bass population has been elusive the last couple of years with occasional flurries of fish and much head scratching afterwards. Most of the fish caught have been small, predominantly under the legal limit, and even those are quick to vanish at the slightest opportunity.

Given the time of year and the paucity of other species available, they are a welcome quarry and an excuse to wander around the Delta hoping to be the lucky fellow whose perseverance discovers where the sumbitches are hiding …

My latest foray was inconclusive. I managed to sting one fish using an experimental “Baby Bluegill” fly versus the more gaily colored monstrosities in white, red, or chartreuse (or all the above). The more somber patterns are often overlooked and therefore underfished – and not caring whether it was eaten by the resident Largemouth, I was fiddling with “natural” baits instead of the normal fare.

BabyBass

I fished the last two hours of incoming, stuck the solitary fish – which came off promptly, and then lingered to fish the following four hours of the outgoing tide. When the wind came up I swapped the fly rod for a spinning rod and stuck three additional fish, two undersized and one keeper-sized.

BloodyThumb700

As I was freeing the larger fish from the net an awkward flop imbedded the free treble into my thumb. Normally I would have taken this personal, but under the circumstances I thought it fair. I stuck him  and took his measure – and he repaid me in like coin. Rather than howl shamefully, I removed his treble, my treble, and the net, before releasing him with a wave (and the corresponding blood spatter)..

I considered it a draw.

Indian Valley Reservoir Scout

Conditions: Morning temperatures about 61 degrees, afternoon about 80 degrees. Gusty mid morning winds to about 20 mph, dying in early afternoon to a steady breeze. Water temperature measured at 58 – 60 degrees.

I figured all my recent scouting and fishing “hard knocks” would eventually put me in the proper water at the right time, as it’s the nature of taking so many cuts at the ball – eventually you have to connect.

Today was Indian Valley Reservoir, which is off of HWY 20 near Clear Lake, CA. To get to the lake requires tracing the ridgeline on a 12 mile long, spine jarring and dusty,  dirt road, replete with all the divots and pot holes that come from a lot of off road traffic and the hellions that practice that fine art.

Indian Valley is a BLM management area and frequently hosts off-road clubs and the California Militia, which is mix of Off-road Crazies, Trump supporters, and leavened with Proud Boys and castoff Fox News anchors, and it’s not uncommon to encounter well armed Turkey hunters on the way in – and better armed camo-clad militia on the way out. 

It’s safe to assume you’re outgunned … so wave cheerily and try to minimize the rocks and dirt you spatter them with  – as you blow past.

The lake proper has a small campground (without water) next to the dam, a long concrete ramp used to launch boats, and is operated by the  Yolo County Water District, which is very tight-lipped about information on the locked gate and whether the lake is open or closed.  The Bureau of Land Management operates the surrounding terrain, and may be the better source for early and late season access status.

I got to the lake around 9AM and was the only person at the campground. No boat inspection despite the numerous placards mentioning fines. Lake County requires Quagga inspection stickers on all boats (you must have one for the current month), but kayaks are exempt from this requirement. There is a $6 day use fee ($15 for overnight camping) that is collected via honor system.

With the lake like glass I started on the West side of the dam and fished through all the sunken timber enroute to the North end of the lake, some miles distant.  In normal years the lake is about six miles long, but this year it’s only about two-thirds full, so is closer to four miles in length.

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Indian Valley is full of timber and underwater stumps, and the lake has a posted speed limit of 10mph for all boat traffic due to the danger of disemboweling your craft.  All that wood makes for a marvelous fishing environment, when you’re not snagging up, as there’s nothing like fishing at something – versus blind casting hoping for something to swim by.

I found the Smallmouth Bass first. They were overly protective of the rocky  points entering the lake and dragging a #4 Grey Wooly Bugger over the shallow hump would often bring something from the deeper water to the sides.

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I landed about a half dozen fish while wandering about the West bank, and got thumped by something that felt bigger ..

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Indian Valley Catfish, my first on the fly

… which wound up being a good sized Catfish, my first on a fly rod.  I had seen numerous Catfish caught on flies in magazines, but this was the first I had caught on my own. It was a great fight and a worthy adversary. The thought of fish dinner entered my mind – as Catfish are wonderful table fare, but I opted to release him instead.

Indian Valley Reservoir is plagued by wind that materializes about 11AM and lasts through till the afternoon. You anticipate this gusty period, as the initial burst is quite blustery, but typically will die back in early afternoon. I always bring conventional tackle to fish during the worst of the wind, as fly rods are ineffective and dangerous when gusts start ripping down the valley.

Emboldened by early success I pedaled over to the East side of the lake just in time to greet the blustery Northern wind that pushed me back South towards the dam. Waves appeared almost immediately and made for a few anxious moments as I adjusted for the return crossing with waves hitting broadside to the boat. Angling kayaks are a little less seaworthy than their sunken cockpit cousins, so I took a 45 degree course to give me a “following sea” and less of a tipping issue with the waves hitting me obliquely versus broadside.

Returning to the West side I shelved the fly rod and beached the kayak to make it easier to fish in high wind. I tried a mix of Spinnerbaits, top water plugs, jigs, and finally settled on tossing a 6” Green Pumpkin Senko (#318 Green Pumpkin with large Red flake) into the deeper water.

With the change in tackle (and depth), the Largemouth appeared – and couldn’t leave the Senko alone. I landed a couple dozen fish (and an even larger Catfish!) during the worst of the windy period all on the big rubber worm.

It’s a lesson I’ve learned many times over. Scouting large bodies of water requires numerous tackle types to get a firm read on quarry and conditions. Fly fishing has glaring weaknesses – casting distance and fishing at depth being the most obvious, and being able to fish through a blustery three hours with conventional gear made quite the difference in understanding where the fish were holding – and what they thought tasty.

In short, had a great trip – caught quite a few fish – and of the four lakes scouted this week, found Indian Valley bite to be “earlier” than the others, something I will log and confirm in coming years.

Indian Valley is all rock and shale covered with a leavening of goopy algae. I saw no evidence of spawning fish, no beds of any kind, no Crappie, Kokanee,  or Carp, and no humans nor trash (even in the campground).

Some observations and cautions: The road to the lake does not need four wheel drive, despite the many potholes, and there is no cell phone coverage, so if you get stuck you’re on your own. Remember if you launch a boat you’ll need to get Quagga inspected (Lake County requires MONTHLY inspections) and go slow on the water as the sunken timber is quite thick in the coves and edges of the lake.

This is heavy Rattlesnake country, so if you camp or bring little people, you need to keep an eye out for visitors. There is little water in the area other than the lake – so anything resident to the area must move to the water which may mean unsolicited visitations or encounters in the brush surrounding … there are tons of snakes in the area.

East Park reservoir–Half Full and Fishing Crappie

Conditions: Air temperature 60 – 80 degrees, light wind in the afternoon. Water Temperature 62 degrees, with water clarity of about 36”.

With the fuel moisture levels in valley brush already at June levels, I recently switched gears and moved from “deep and narrow” lakes to exploiting the “shallow and bowl-like” lakes before they warm to bathtub temperatures.

The rationale is simple, the deep lakes will remain cool at depth no matter how warm the summer gets – but the shallow lakes are already half empty, are warming quickly,  and will be unfishable come July.

East Park Reservoir is a little known impoundment off of I-5 that most fishermen pass while headed North into the blue water of the Cascades. It is a agricultural reservoir just above Williams, and services much of Colusa county. Last year (drought year One) I visited it in May and July – and while the May trip was good fishing, the July trip was a warm off-color mess.

East Park isn’t well known, hosts few services, including no boat launch, and doesn’t get the pressure of the popular lakes like Clear Lake or Berryessa. This lack of humans means no trash at the water’s edge, no floating debris, and no overflowing garbage dumpsters to draw wildlife and the curious.

As the lake is accessible only via a Colusa county controlled gate, it is accessible only from April till October, after which the gates are closed and locked for the Winter.

Being about the only person on the lake the prior year, I assumed the opening of the lake would be a quiet affair, so I made the trip jsut to see what the lake offered for the April 9th Opener …

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… and while it appears that most of the locals had the same idea, there was plenty of room for everyone due to the low lake levels and the expanded parking and launch facilities that created. Parking is plentiful on the sandy lake bed, and launching a bass boat simply needs an outcropping of hard pan near the water’s edge for success (see above).

The lower portion of the lake was already dry and reminiscent of late summer of last year, so I expect this year will be critical to lake levels, as its current 50% fill will be drawn down quickly by the local rice, almond, and tomato crop.

East Park hosts numerous bass species, carp, and an aggressive Crappie population that shows itself with regularity. With about a dozen boats on the lake – and at least eight fishing kayaks, the fish were plentiful and most succumbed to an assortment of “rip” baits, spinnerbaits, and a few even blew up on top water lures.

The Crappie preferred a weighted Grey Wooly Bugger (size 6), which I use for a standard “minnow” or Shad imitation, and the Largemouth Bass preferred the larger, Crawdad colored, variant. (Use Orange and Brown speckled chenille, brown marabou tail, furnace hackle tied Palmer)

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The bite was pretty good considering all the extra traffic on the lake, which killed the the daylong serenade of Coyotes singing from Coyote Point, but the trip was an unqualified success on all other measures.

The kayak allows full access to the lake, if your legs are in good enough shape to pedal the distance. East Park is shaped like an inverted “V” – and at half full the round trip distance between southern launch and northern dam is about three miles, with a similar length for the far “leg” of the lake.

Ample campsites exist, but they are Spartan and lack water. The fluctuations of the lake level alter the camping area drastically as most follow the receding waterline and camp on the lake bed proper.

Colusa county operates the camping concession, and you can reserve campsites (and pay for day use) on their website. Day use is about $8, for a single vehicle, and camping is $15 per night, which is cheap considering.

I did not see any evidence of Bass spawn yet, and the 62 degree water is still a bit chill for full mating debauchery. It will be soon, but will be difficult to spot based on the rocky shale bottom of the lake. Largemouth beds are more obvious scars on  muddy bottoms than on a rocky surface, and are less easy to spot.

The few fish that broke the surface for top water action suggests the activity level is consistent with a warming lake, so the best bite will be soon.

Lake Berryessa Scout Trip & Conditions

Conditions: Morning breeze (stiff) to 12 mph, afternoon calm. Air temperature 61 – 80 degrees. Water temperature 58 to 60 degrees.

Launch: Oak Shores Day use area (west side of Berryessa).

With this week’s temperatures threatening to break seasonal records, and the latest “wind event” rumored to die out that evening, I assumed it safe to look for largemouth beds and see if any bass had moved into the shallows to spawn.

The wind finally died around noon – which is why I consider all weather men to be knaves and scoundrels. All morning I endured a steady 12 mph breeze – which threatened to impale me via errant false cast. As the wind was quite violent on the windward points, I opted to beach my kayak on several of the islands in the area so I could fish without being blown out of range before the cast could land.

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Lots of boats in the area, several were trolling for Kokanee, so there must have been some action in the deeper water off of Big Island.

I fished the small hummocks emerging out of the water between Oak Shores and Goat Island, crossed the deeper water to fish two of the larger bays of Big Island, then returned to Goat (after the wind died) to fish back through the hummocks and navigation hazards to the launch area.

No largemouth beds visible, no holding fish (guarding beds), four fish seen cruising the shallows on one side of a bay (shown on map in blue) on Big Island. No strikes and nothing left on …

Of the boat and bank fishermen seen, no fish were caught. Lots of boats roaring into the water nearby – and leaving just as quickly.

As expected for this time of year, there is no weed cover on the bottom. Lots of rocky areas but no additional cover to hold baitfish from predation – nor was any bait visible singly or in schools.

I covered a lot of water yesterday to ensure I eyeballed both shallow and deep areas for signs of fish. I covered the sandy and rocky bottoms, the shallow pitches as well as the deep drop-offs, and saw nothing of consequence.

“Bob Simms” of the Outdoor show appears to have echoed a similar experience for this Saturday’s broadcast (April 3rd). The commercial mentioned he blanked as well until late afternoon, then caught fish in 20 foot of water off the deeper drop offs … I’m sure he waked me several times yesterday –as the V8 crowd was quite restless.

I would guess the spawn has not started in earnest on the West Side of the lake. A combination of cold water temperatures (58-60), the lack of visible fish, and the absence of bed scars on the bottom – supports that conclusion … but in the end it is only a guess.

Somewhere between a Float Tube and an Evinrude

Contrary to what you think of retirement, the reward is not being able to watch Saturday morning cartoons uninterrupted, rather it’s fishing  on weekdays while all the drunken Meatheads embody cartoons as they crowd the launch ramp on weekends.

After 30 years of toiling for CALFIRE, we parted on good terms and I took some  accumulated time on the books from pressing emergencies and late-night phone calls – and gifted myself a “Yak”, or fishing kayak,  and the ability to wield it in retirement whenever the mood suits me.

Fishing kayaks require a lot of thought and configuration to suit  fly fishermen, and I’m still learning what works and what doesn’t. How to optimize storage, how to NOT carry everything with me, how not to lose it all when I flip the boat, and more importantly – how not to leave anything on the deck without thinking about the coils of fly line underneath and how the kinetics play out when I release the cast …

Hint: Sploosh.

I’ll elaborate on my final configuration and more importantly – how to fish out of these shortly, once I’ve got enough hours to be a credible source. Fly fishermen have little experience fishing from boats that move  while casting –  and pedal powered kayaks allow both  versus having  to wield a paddle to move. Float tubes are stationary objects and prams bob contentedly in place but if your boat is moving while the cast is in the air a mess ensues as you have new things to snag with your line and new gods to invoke while swearing mightily at great puddles of fly line being run over by your boat.

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This week was the California Delta, and the pursuit of Striped Bass – which like every other gamefish I’ve targeted – gleefully thumb their nose at me despite my new “water-legs.”  While my pedal kayak and angling pastime has now been blessed as “heart healthy” by all lab coated professionals, the Striped Bass remained unimpressed and likely pirouetted around me while I pedaled around the confines of “Sherman Lake” and Sherman Island proper.

“Sherman Lake” is just a wide spot in the Delta at Sherman Island, and is a popular spot for duck hunters, striper and sturgeon fishermen (in the main channel), and hosts the occasional wind surfer or kayak angler. It is about 1.2 miles across and has five or six miles of bank ranging from rock jetties to dense Tule mats. With pedal power I can cross in about 15 minutes – but have to factor in drunken boaters, waves caused by wind or tides, and everything else that haunts a navigable body of water.

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I did find seventeen new ways to penetrate my fat frame with really large and sharp fish hooks. All wounds were aided by bead chain eyes (Whistler), lead hourglass eyes (Clouser), and anything else capable of being lashed to a fish hook and able to turn a timid false cast into a lethal weapon.  Most involved  hastily applied tourniquets and a great deal of swearing, which may be why the bird watchers gave me a wide berth.

Kayak fishing in a heavily trafficked waterway is not for the faint of heart. Boat wakes and the boating curious can send enough water in your direction to give your small craft a fit if you’re not paying attention. Stability dictates your bisecting the oncoming wake with the bow of your craft, versus getting hit broadside by the wave, and the unwary angler can be sorting a tangle of running line, or netting a fish, unaware of the new threat and a little too much lean coupled with the arrival of the swell can lead to a rollover.

… which is why everything of value has to be tethered to your craft or should float unaided. Fishing vests are no longer an option as you need to wear a life jacket, so storage of all the little things; tippet dispensers, hook hones, and fly boxes has to be rethought as well.

Petite flies and the gossamer fly rods of stream fishing are replaced by those capable of hurling an entire chicken saddle or bucktail with ample lead. Casting skills are essential as you’ve got to impart lift to a rapidly descending Clouser Minnow, a fly which shares the aerodynamic profile of a paving stone, and with only a single double haul or you’re going to wear the fly instead of the fish.  Rods and flies are heavy, and casting them all day requires minimal “air” time; one roll cast to bring them to the surface, one false cast to get them aloft, one double haul to impart momentum – then fling the accumulated mass as far from you as possible to avoid injury.

Despite all of the environmental and platform changes, all of the rod and fly differences, and despite the vagrancies of migratory fish and tides, it’s comforting to know that my ignoble pal, the Sacramento Pikeminnow, is a delta resident – and while not as showy as a Striped Bass, has also been sucked South due to all the lawn irrigation in SoCal.

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They’re quite a bit bigger and silvery versus the yellow variant in my local creek. The Good News is they retain their aggressive nature and swallow a six inch Clouser with as much gusto as smaller flies. It was a welcome grab given how much water I covered and how little I had to show for all that effort.

The first day I crossed to the West side and fished the Tule mats, with a lone Pikeminnow my only seduction. The second day I drifted the rock jetty on the East side and caught both Largemouth Bass and Pikeminnow but no Stripers. I saw a few fly fishermen in the main body but the frequency of their movement suggested their luck was identical to mine, fish scarce and Stripers scarcer.

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I’ll continue to investigate the area as the tides permit. The fish are typically here most of the Winter, but tides determine the useful fishing hours and many occur too early or too late to fish.  Most folks familiar with the area insist on fishing the incoming tide but others like any tide movement, both incoming and outgoing. This is consistent with all the Striper fishing I did in San Francisco Bay – as the fish were active on any tide so long as it was moving.

Trip Log: External temperature 70 degrees. Fished the incoming high tide until slack tide. Water temperature 58 degrees. Flies used: assorted experimental ribbon yarn streamers, Flo Green Clouser, Shad Clouser, White Whistler.

Use that COVID-19 induced idleness to prep for trout Season

Shelterinplace300It’s likely your supervisor sent you home with an ill defined “work from home” edict that was hurriedly dumped in his lap from corporate.  For most  of us that amounts to “checking your email” coupled with online meetings as our only obligation.

With trout season a short month away, and your boss hoping you won’t show for the next couple of weeks, what’s a home bound self-reliant angler to do with all that extra time?

Shelter in place, hopefully.

As cataclysms of this magnitude are never foreseen and rarely welcome, one thing is certain,  sitting at home mesmerized by the plummeting value of your 401K is neither pleasant nor entertaining – and while a bit of idleness may be welcome, this is hardly what you had in mind for an ersatz holiday.

As “shelter in place” comes with numerous restrictions our normal angling time wasting pursuits of womanizing and drinking are off limits. Not because we’ve lost interest or suffered a sudden moral imperative … they involve people and are therefore ill advised.

Rather than fixating on the Stock Market or chewing fingernails over the prospects of future employment, focus on all those tackle related housekeeping chores you gleefully ignore each Winter, and get your vest and its contents ready for any opportunities that show them selves over the next couple of months.

Even if the COVID-19 virus is short-lived the economic effects will take awhile to work themselves through the world’s economy. It’ s likely numerous disruptions associated with all that supply-chain upheaval may keep you at home for the Trout Season Opener, so it’s an opportune moment to focus on some of the small pleasures that remain – instead of all the horrid news streaming at you from every device.

THINGS TO DO WHILE UNDER HOUSE-ARREST

Check all backing knots and retie them

Most of us haven’t caught anything bigger than fifteen inches in the last couple of seasons and the last time your backing knot saw daylight was the day you tied it. You’ve been promising to check all your terminal tackle for the last decade and always “shine” the responsibility, now that you’re enjoying some enforced idleness why don’t you peel that floating line off of your reel, test the backing, retie the knot, and reel it through a damp cloth with a dab of silicon gel.

The result will be about six additional feet with every cast, which may be enough to reach that enormous trout that surfaced in midstream …

Unbox all of your flies and touch up the hook points

It’s prudent to pull all of your flies out and check for rust, moth damage, and dull hooks, and while you’re at it, inventory the lot. COVID-19 is likely to disrupt the fly tying centers; India, Sri Lanka, and Malaysia – and may cause some fly patterns to be in short supply. Now may be the time to inventory and assess what’s missing, so toss all those that are rusting badly, and sharpen what remains.

While you’re at it, pinch all their barbs, as you’ll lose a few when the entire point cracks off –and can replace them now before the rest of us realize we’re light on #16 Adams.

Read that book you bought and wanted to read

Over the last couple of decades fly fishing has dwindled to a few time-tested techniques and a couple of new ways to cast. Exacting imitation has given way to attractors, and many of the tools and techniques we’ve enjoyed for the last hundred years lie dormant – while we “high stick” or spey-everything.

Chances are you’ve got a couple of books tucked away that may reacquaint you with Flymphs, wet flies, the Leisenring Lift, or any number of hoary and ancient techniques that still work wonderfully. “Mini-jigs” and articulated awesomeness are just fine – and so are many of the simple things that don’t involve Tungsten or 11 foot rods.

Learn how to tie flies

I learned to tie flies from books – which is a fate I would not wish on and enemy. With Youtube resources and Internet-ready big screen TV’s, learning how to tie flies is easier than ever.

Fly tying is the next best option to fishing, but it’s akin to buying a house if you get overly enamored. Chicken feathers cost considerably more than a 20 piece Kentucky Colonel, so you’re trading up for the skills but the price for all that dry fly dander can be truly breathtaking.

Practice casting and rid yourself of that tailing loop

Most of us practice casting while fishing, instead of warming up those skills prior to the season Opener. As fly casting is both hazardous to those behind you as well as yourself, now is the time to work out those kinks in the safety of your backyard, rather than waist deep in your favorite trout stream. Considering how much time is spent unsnarling the knots caused by tailing loops and the flies lost by an ill-timed forward cast, it pays to practice prior to your first trip afield – rather than repeating all that unspeakable horror when armed with a sharp hook.

I’m sure you’ll opt for “none of the above” but at the minimum, start exercising those leg muscles so you’ve got options once you’re waist deep in the current. The distance you’re able to travel from the parked car will determine the population density of your competitors and who’ll will have to cough to clear a spot in the pool …

Classic Bamboo GETS New life as Chinese imitate Tapers

tonkinWhile the Trump administration’s negotiators fence with their counterparts in the Chinese delegation, the issues under discussion may be closer to home than we suspect. Intellectual property and copyright infringement are hot topics as American companies protest copycat products flooding markets and brands suffer accordingly. Fly fishing’s high priced rod market  may be the latest victim in the trade war as a similar blitz of products may be aimed at the classic bamboo fly rod market …

The fishing industry has seen cheap imitations before and they’ve made little headway against our classic rod smiths, but this time may be different, as they’re copying all the classic tapers from the Grand Masters of bamboo, and are pushing them onto eBay at a fraction of traditional costs.

On the one hand, if the tapers are identical to the hoary and ancient bamboo master of antiquity, this gives us the opportunity to cast and fish something potentially quite special, and as the finished product is only $150 per set of dual-tip bamboo blanks, makes the experiment really affordable.

On the other hand, knowing the avaricious nature of many of those wishing to exploit an already high priced market for classic fly rods, we’re likely to see these show in the restoration market, given how easy it would be to pass a newer blank of a classic rod, “… refinished Payne, it’s a steal at any price!” – and only the experts in bamboo construction able to identify which is the contemporary milled blank, and which is the bonafide article.

Currently eBay is hosting bamboo blanks for Thomas & Thomas 7’6” 2/3wt,  H.L. Leonard (Taper 804) 8’ 4wt,Phillipson Pacemaker 8’ 3” , F.E. Thomas 7’ 6”, H.L. Leonard (Baby Catskill) 7’ 2/3 wt, P. Young (Parabolic) 8’ 5wt, Orvis Midge 7’ 6” 3/4 wt, and Orvis Superfine  6’ 6” 5/6wt, Payne (Taper 97) 7’ 4wt, Garrison (Taper 206) 7’6” 4wt, Winston 8052 8’ 5wt, Heddon Black Beauty (#17) 9’ 5/6wt, and many more tapers and makers including Hardy and Powell.

Each set of bamboo blanks range from $95 to about $150, so cost is negligible compared to contemporary pricing, and only the product itself remains unknown. With friendly feedback so easy to manufacture it’s prudent to eyeball what’s offered, yet purchasing the blanks without confirming construction, tapers, and quality, makes this purchase fraught with risk.

There’s not a lot of detail on the seller other than their location  (China) and past sales, and from their feedback log it appears the blanks have only been selling for about one year. Prior feedback mentions feathers, boas, and a sprinkling of wooden items, so the tie to the fly fishing industry remains, but with a different suite of products.

While the geography is friendly to the notion these are Tonkin cane, the pictures offered aren’t of high enough quality to confirm any of the claims of the seller. so caveat emptor remains the watchword.

Classic rod collectors would be wise to study up on which glues and finishes are consistent with old rods – and what methods exist to detect animal glues from modern epoxy, as any recently restored classic will resemble the Chinese imitation in all but hollowing and construction … all of which are hidden in the final fit and finish.

Go Deep and Sulk, Whiner

I’ve lost all compassion for the fish. Sure, they have a bit of Lactic Acid buildup and a sore lip, but I’m waking up with ailments more painful and more debilitating, while the fish find some hidden refuge to nurse lip and their wounded pride, I have to hobble my way to the coffeepot despite aching back, sore neck, sunburn, barked knuckles, blisters, and strained muscles.

I spent yet another weekend laboring on behalf of the fish and their watery environment, and while humping rocks and timbers into ever increasing mounds and pillars, I thought of past weeks and the rising damage to mine own limbs, and had the temerity to ask myself, “… but is it worth it?”

“Worth it” being less a question than a known constant, but when you have to manually remove your aching fingers from around the coffee cup handle, the metaphysical rumination of the question comes unbidden.

In retrospect, I started working on terraforming a piece of the lake a couple of months ago. As I am limited to about a day a week to work on the project, and while there is little shortage of woody debris and rocks littering the shoreline, it is still a two mile walk to get there, followed by hours of stoop labor carrying rocks, and another two miles back to parking area.

The 100 degree weather commensurate with a drought being merely a bonus.

That first weekend ended with sanded fingertips, what with all the grit and wet rocks slipping from my grasp. The following week it was work gloves to protect those precious fly tying fingers, but something I’d had for breakfast forced me to wobble back to the car dizzy and out of it.

With October came the winter parking area closure, which added an extra two miles to the hike round trip. That weekend ended with me dragging myself back to the car just prior to passing a kidney stone, so all the suffering endured during the ride home was a preamble to the welcome tinkle of stone colliding with porcelain.

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I did manage to complete three 30’ walls of rock, complete with timbers and ancillary connected debris – designed to give bait fish a hidey hole, and allow prowling bass to secret themselves in ambush. The timber and reclaimed Christmas trees I’ve imbedded in the rock work give me the opportunity to collect all manner of free fishing lures, which I consider payment from you fellows for all the sweat equity I put into the area.

Now that we’ve seen the temperatures start lower and have seen our first real rain, most of the lake is fishless. Bass slide deeper as the shallow water cools, and fishing is less of an option.

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Then again, a  1/0 heavily weighted Olive Minnow, can occasionally yield something attempting to pack on the pounds prior to snoring all Winter. This is the biggest bass I’ve landed on a fly this year, somewhere between six and seven pounds.

… and tomorrow at work, when I get up out of my chair and feel every spot of soreness in my pudgy deskbound frame – I’ll know this SOB is sulking with his sore lip,  while I move gazelle-like to the water cooler to add another pound to the re-telling.

Is it worth it? Silly question …