In the last installment we looked at the Scientific Angler and Airflo brands and pointed to similarities of taper and how advertising didn’t always correspond to the line’s attributes. Without a standard we suggested every change to a fly line could be spun into a benefit, and how advertising artfully avoids using the same superlatives to describe features and capability.
Admittedly our research is simplistic; discarding color, texture, slickness, and softness, and most of the hype to focus on taper alone. Taper is responsible for the feel of a line in flight, and that’s something each of us is expert in, it’s something we’ve practiced for years.
We’re hoping that all the Excedrin Migraine we swallowed building the charts will be useful going forward. Knowing your manufacturer and his tendencies can assist in making an informed purchase.
Of the “Big Four” manufacturers only RIO and Cortland remain. We’ve cataloged their tapers and noted some examples of their practices below:
RIO
RIO doesn’t reinvent the wheel as much as SA and Airflo, it takes proven and popular tapers adds new boxes and artwork and labels them as new lines – often species specific, or topology related.
The RIO Carp is identical to their Mainstream Floater, the Mainstream Saltwater has an identical taper to their Mainstream Bass/Pike/Panfish, and if you snip 3″ off the tip of a RIO Striped Bass, it’s a RIO Clouser – only about $10 cheaper.
The RIO Lake and RIO Classic share an identical taper, but the Lake is an intermediate sink fly line, which is a marked difference.
The RIO website has the following for the CARP line:
Designed for the carp fly fisher, this weight forward fly line combines a medium length head with a smooth front taper for a subtle presentation. Wary carp will not be spooked by either the presentation, or the camo olive color. The slick XS Technology coating, over a braided multifilament core ensures easy and confident casts.
… and for it’s twin, the Mainstream Floater:
Designed to optimize rod performance at normal casting ranges with shorter heads, tapers and running lines that empower novice casters to make the cast. MainStream lines undergo the same rigorous production processes and quality control standards as all RIO products. The MainStream floating lines have a supple self-lubricating coating that remains memory-free in cold water.
The advertisements are different, no mention of “smooth front taper” on the MainStream, and they didn’t claim Carp fishermen are novice casters, which was a selling point of the MainStream. “Memory free in cold water?” – is that better or worse than XS Technology?
The RIO CARP retails for $69.95 and the Mainstream floater for $39.95, which is a significant hit despite the XS technology. Is the same taper worth the extra dollars?
You be the judge.
If we look at forward tapers, as we did with SA and Airflo, RIO has 7 lines with forward tapers in excess of 7 feet. If the practice we’ve seen with SA and Airflo holds true we would expect the Selective Trout II to tout its long tip as that’s the “money” superlative to use; fine tip = soft presentation = selective trout.
The Indicator:
MainStream® Indicator Fly Line • NEW for 2009 With a short front taper and a front loaded head, this line is designed for casting big indicators and heavier flies, and does so with ease. The line is built on a supple braided multifilament core and has a self-lubricating coating that remains memory-free in cold water.
Huh? Short Front Taper? A delicate tip would be worse at turning over large flies as it lacks the mass of a heavier line. The front 7′ of the belly of the line is what they’re trying to suggest as the weight forward, it’ll have to transition its energy into the decreasing diameter of the 8′ forward taper otherwise it’s a mess when it lands.
The RIO Grand:
The RIO Grand is one half size heavier and features more weight distributed towards the front of the line to easily load fast action fly rods. AgentX Technology gives the RIO Grand maximum floatation and the XS Technology produces a wonderfully slick finish for easy distance. The line remains supple in coldwater conditions and is ultra smooth for maximum casting distance. The Super Floatation Tip™ has a welded loop for changing leaders. Tests prove that when you land a fish, the loop slides through the rod guides more easily than the customary nail knot.
No mention of the longer front taper, but has “Agent X” as a wildcard to feel safer about the purchase. “One half size heavier” means the line is AFTMA #7.5, and it’s likely a thicker diameter throughout the taper. We’ll have to take their word on it because a long front taper doesn’t concentrate the weight towards the front of the line, that’s an attribute of a short front taper.
The Selective Trout II:
One of the softest, memory-free fly lines made. A unique manufacturing process enables this line to have a relaxed off-the-reel feel yet the harder outer coating ensures the highest casting performance and durability. The Selective Trout II line is for discerning anglers and technical fishing situations where the long, fine front taper provide the softest of presentations. This line is the best for bamboo and traditional action trout rods. RIO has slightly increased the diameter behind the front taper of the double taper for easy turnover of long leaders. The AgentX coating makes these high floating lines incredibly easy to lift quietly off the water, while the XS Technology results in a very smooth and slick finish.
Predictable isn’t it? Here’s our mention of the benefits of a long front taper and how it assists a gentle presentation. Note how “soft” is immediately diffused by “hard outer coating” and durability is no longer in question.
There’s little question that the marketing is genius – and fascinating how each line contains attributes that are selectively ignored or pronounced ensuring each line is marketed to a unique niche. This style is constant among all line manufacturers – and is required to ensure we’re lining up for more spools and the lines to go on them.
Real genius is touting a long front taper as good, and not having to explain why a short front taper isn’t bad.
In my mind RIO takes it past the line of good taste however. I give high marks to its authors, their prose is deft, subtle, and you can’t argue with any of it. Claiming the delicate tip will assist in turning over large flies and a longer front taper is “more weight forward,” isn’t consistent with physics. The belly of the line is not part of the forward taper, and RIO blurs that distinction.
SA and Cortland were both effusive and elusive about their products, but they didn’t require a 4th dimension or a rift in the space-time continuum to validate their assertions.
CORTLAND
Cortland appears to have made a concious decision to simplify everything but the box art. It’s as if their strategy is, “We’ll make a taper that we like and use it on everything, if you like the feel of how a Cortland casts, then you’ll like all our lines.”
I can’t argue with the logic as it’s sound. It could also be indicative of a company attempting to keep pace with others and ill prepared for the specialization wave. It’s a reasonable explanation but it’s entirely conjecture on my part.
Cortland makes many lines but very few distinct tapers. Like Airflo they like a full foot of level line at the tip, and prefer 90′ and 105′ lines, and are betting on one of two things; either their coatings and textures are so much better than everyone else, or you won’t look at the above chart and realize they only make 2-3 different lines.
The chart speaks volumes, and suggests you’d be best served looking at price. Despite the box art, the line hasn’t had its taper tuned to match the advertised quarry or conditions, and with so little variance in taper the real difference is what you pay.
The SYLK and Classic Clear Creek have an uncommon amount of level tip and should be noted as such, let’s take a look at the marketing:
444 Classic Sylk is the first modern line designed specifically for fine bamboo and rods. The “Sylk” replicates the fine diameter, long taper, supple feel and subtle color of natural silk, but in a modern, easy to care for fly line. But, the “Sylk” isn’t just for bamboo! If you are one of the many anglers who have rediscovered the delights of fiberglass fly rods, this line is for you! It even works well on graphite for the finest presentations under the most demanding low water conditions. Can you say “midges?”
… and the Classic Clear Creek:
Whether you’re on the legendary creeks of Paradise Valley, the Chalk Streams of Hampshire, or in the Limestone country of Pennsylvania, spring creeks (and tail waters!) present special challenges. The extra long, supple tip of the Clear Creek helps put the body of the line further from the target, resulting in a softer, more precise delivery of the fly. The mute olive color blends into both bank-side and aquatic vegetation. And our cold-water formulation remains coil free in any condition. 444 Clear Creek, the choice of spring creek experts!
No mention of the 400% longer tip on the SYLK (as compared to SA or RIO), which is being marketed to the bamboo crowd, that “extra long supple tip” is reserved for their technical offering, the Clear Creek.
Artfully chosen verbiage ensures no two lines appear the same in print, regardless of their physical properties.
Summary:
Fly line manufacturers are playing a game of words with us consumers. That’s not terribly surprising, but inclusion and omission requires us to do our homework before assuming anything about a fly line.
It doesn’t appear that a Bonefish line is required to catch a Bonefish, and you may have known that instinctively – but the new fly fisherman who’s looking to fly shop staff and magazines to make decisions doesn’t.
Advertising copy used by fly line makers are slicker than their line coatings. Features they tout on the box are shared by other lines in their product suite, many of their tapers are similar, and there’s no standard to judge words like; longer, shorter, and slicker.
A desirable feature is touted by the maker, its opposite is present on another line – where it too is an asset, and all we’re supposed to acknowledge is “it’s all Good.”
Fly lines are limited in their physical properties by the AFTMA standard. Weight (taper) is either pushed forward on the line or pulled rearward, with predictable consequences. Skagit lines and shooting heads are “all the weight stuffed forward” – and there’s no parallel for everything pushed to the rear other than … kite string.
Our research for these articles is inherently flawed. We’ve ignored all qualities of fly lines other than their taper, but taper is the entire feel of a line in flight and quite possibly the most important portion of any cast. Manufacturers toss us buzzwords; “Agent X”, “hydrophobic”, and “repeating geometric micro patterns” and like fish we swallow the bait whole.
Not all technical breakthroughs are worthy, and it’s up to us to determine what really works, what we really like, and to reward those firms that consistently produce superior quality in addition to superior ad copy.
Note: As an added bonus you can use the charts above to quickly determine who is repackaging another vendor’s lines. While the colors may change, the tapers should remain the same.
Did you look at the Orvis lines at all? Their specs seem impossible to get ahold of, but perhaps you have better sources.
I did look at the Orvis lines, but they don’t post the specs as you mentioned. All their WF’s are either 90′ or 105′ – which is the first clue.
It’s possible that Orvis lines are bought from more than one vendor also.
I fish mostly Wulff lines. They still keep things relatively simple with a reasonable number of tapers and some variation on cores.
Any idea who makes them?
Another good article KBarton. The only thing I know of not mentioned was the fact that for a long time, up until about a year or so ago, Scientific Anglers has their name on a fly line sold in Walmart stores. It was priced at $9.95. I bought one (a 5 weight) about three years ago, put it on one of my many reels and used it. It seem to cast just as well as the other five weight lines I had spooled. I liked the color. It was just a dull green, an excellent choice in my opinion. After about a year, I forgot which line it was. I probably still use it. It came in a nice box and was on a plastic reel so there was no savings on the packaging. I know what Walmart is willing to pay for the items in their Sporting Goods Dept. because I have dealt with the buyer before. To keep it simple and probably very close to being correct, lets just say they sold them to Walmart for around $5.00 each. That should clue you in on what a fly line cost to make. I doubt SA was loosing money. On the other hand, they may have because Walmart don’t have the line any more. They sell another brand (can’t recall the name) packaged very nicely for $9.95.
Now I am not pushing Walmart and I am not pushing ten buck fly lines. Like one of your readers responded yesterday, the top fly line manufacturers push the cast better, floats higher but not last longer and cost less. At least SA had a “priced less” line but I guess they choose to replace it with the “Jaws” line for ten times the price. I wouldn’t mind paying $200.00 for a fly line that was actually better than the others. I would have to have the best. I do mind paying more for a fly line than I should have to pay and I don’t like their taking advantage of those that are new to fly fishing who fall for the crap on the boxes.
Now if you will just finish the fly line gear by doing the same with rods, reels, tippet, leaders, waders, boots, etc. I doubt it pays you well but maybe honesty will be rewarded in some other way.
James – Ebay has quite a few vendors hawking extremely cheap unboxed fly lines. I’ve often wondered whether these aren’t factory seconds from a known manufacturer – or a “Walmart” style low cost variant.
If you could get a handful at $5 each or less, it may warrant throwing a micrometer on them and snipping away until you had the taper desired.
We used to do this with tournament lines all the time, trimming butts and tips to achieve proper turn over, etc.
Seems like these folks are also limiting color availability in certain lines, along with their packaging changes. The Mainstream comes in really bland packaging, but it’s also bright lime green. And while I don’t personally believe the fish are susceptible to spooking based solely on line color, they do spook on leader size. I’m now (at least partially) convinced that a bright line gives them reason to look up, and if you believe that fish are actually capable of deduction, gives them perspective on where the leader might be coming from.
PS: My very presence on planet earth attests to the fact that carp fisherman can not only be novice casters, they can be downright pitiful ones.
After testing various prototypes, I have provided my OEM with my own specifications and will have my own line of “Perfect Fly” Floating Weight Forward fly lines for salt and fresh water use within the next five months or less. The only thing I haven’t figured out is “what to put on the box”. Maybe “The Best For Less”. Ha or “Slick as the skin of a skip jack shad”.
I was recently given two used fly rods, and I’ve been debating whether or not I should purchase reels and fly lines for each of them, or just use what I already have.
Thank you for saving me several hundred dollars.
SMJ: That’s not being patriotic!
James: I’d go with “Perfect Fly – Smooth as a baby’s arse.” It would give you a six month head start on the competition while they debated how smooth that was …
I think you’ve confused me with those who recently invaded the Bank of Scotland. I no longer have the energy for that sort of thing, so “unpatriotic” doesn’t quite fit. “Cheap lazy bastard” seems more appropriate.
I’ve got it. Scented saltwater fly lines. Add some menhaden oil to soften the line, make it float higher and create a chum line to attract fish on every cast. Dang, I shouldn’t have gave that away. Rio may be reading this.
Just for any comments (which I would appreciate) our 5 wt taper specs are (feet):
.5 front taper 5.3, belly 29.0, rear taper 3.7. running line 47.0, head lenght 38.0, total length 85.0. Don’t seem to fit any of your specs listed for any other manf.
All come with loop (extra over front taper lenght which can be cut off it a knot is preferred.
By the way, the Walmart line I was referring to that replace SA’s line is made by Cortland. It is 12.95, not 9.95. They went up to get a head start on Obama inflation.
Bugger, I had to go for a crap halfway through that report KBarton. Anyway thanks mate for both parts 1 & 2,excellent articles. Now all I have to do is figure out how to remember it all.
I’m ready for a fly line called the: Rational Harpoon. Anything less is going in the bushes. I don’t think that a line needs to be slicker than a Religous Experience. It takes a very slick bastard to avoid reproach for being mid-stream during church services. It takes an even slicker bastard to pass the plate after reading from a book that contains the collective genius of fellas that lacked a modern high school education. I’ve tossed all colors: it’s likely they all end up as a black silhouette from below. Thanks for the article. Really nice work. I’ve clipped my Cortland 444 back far enough now to deliver a stream emptying splash that would make an artillery shell jealous. Oh, an here’s your your fly box back. You might want to fill in the holes…dear brother.
“It takes a very slick bastard to avoid reproach for being mid-stream during church services. It takes an even slicker bastard to pass the plate after reading from a book that contains the collective genius of fellas that lacked a modern high school education.”
This is a terrific turn of phrase. I’m going to steal it, and you cannot stop me.
Great article and excellent work on the charts. Would it be possible to get a copy of the spreadsheet file for closer analysis on our own?
Thanks for the great work!
Graham,
It’s enroute as an Open Office Calc file. If anyone else wants the spreadsheet, just drop me a note.
I like the post, good overview, but as someone who runs a shop that deals mostly in Cortland lines, I’d like to weigh in a bit because you kind of paint them as pulling a fast one on the consumer by using the same 2-3 tapers on all their lines. I think this is, number one, false, and number two, kind of irrelevant as while taper is important, there are lots of other things to consider when buying a line. You mention this, for example, line coating etc., but then kind of downplay it.
So…
Five things about Cortland:
(1) “…the line hasn’t had its taper tuned to match the advertised quarry or conditions, and with so little variance in taper the real difference is what you pay.”
You left off the Precision Pike line which has a super aggressive front taper, I think the shortest in the industry, and for throwing really heavy or air resistant flies, it’s the size of the front taper that really matters (according to at least some people). All the Species Specific lines have a different taper that is “tuned” to a certain species and the flies you use to catch it. So saying that they are not is false.
(2) “The chart speaks volumes, and suggests you’d be best served looking at price.”
The Precision lines are twice as expensive as the 333 lines because they are going to last longer, be slick longer, less cracking etc. That’s the most important difference. So saying that “price” is the only difference and you should buy the less expensive one is a little irresponsible.
Though more importantly, and relevant to your focus on tapers, the 333 lines do not have the same taper as the Precision lines. The 333 do not have the rocket taper, rather, they have a standard weight forward head, short back taper and longer belly. The Precision lines have the “rocket taper” which is a long rear taper and short belly. This is clearly shown in the chart you made, and Cortland also has some nice graphics of the line tapers on their site where it is even more obvious. What’s interesting about this is that it exactly tracks price, so saying that price is the only difference between the lines is wrong. The taper is different as well, the very thing you’re worried about.
(3) “Fly lines are limited in their physical properties by the AFTMA standard.”
Grain weights are AFTMA-standard on all Cortland lines except the Western Drifter which is 1/2 a line size heavier, e.g. a 6wt Western Drifter is actually a 6.5wt by AFTMA standards. Rio is rarely exactly AFTMA compliant, though perhaps they are in the allowed variation.
“Taper is responsible for the feel of a line in flight…”
The Western Drifter was hefted up to load faster rods better. This is important and while it’s not exactly a difference in taper, it does make a huge difference in how a line feels “in flight.”
(4) Importantly, the Precision sink tip lines have different size sinking heads from the 333 and 444 lines, and the Quick Descent lines all have intermediate running lines, their “clear camo” line. This makes the Precision sink tips quite a bit different from the other sink tips that Cortland makes.
(5) I agree that Cortland’s catalog and internet copy really leaves something to be desired. For example, you wouldn’t realize that the Western Drifters were a 1/2 AFTMA size larger unless you looked at the sample grain weight and compared it to the AFTMA standards. This brings up the whole issue of line weight standards in general, which is totally fucked if you ask me.
For example, grain windows on rods are often for the entire head of a line, while AFTMA standards are for the first 30 feet of the line. So while an AFTMA 8wt is 210gr, you’d want to use that 8wt on a rod calling for, say, a 290gr line. Or if the line has a particularly big head or is bigger than the AFTMA rating, you could get away with a 7wt line on that rod. CONFUSING. This is one good thing about at least Rio: they publish an entire head weight in addition to the AFTMA head weight on their website for at least some of their lines.
But the upside is that there really are important differences between Cortland lines that they could be discussing in their catalog copy. But they aren’t, they are trying to sell you with stupid, slick, ad-type stuff, which, I agree, is bullshit. (also, while the Sylk and Clear Creek have important, functional differences, don’t get me started about the fake spots they put on the Sylk to make it look like an old silk line).
Another good reason why local shops with knowledgeable staff are better than big box shops or online shops is what I say.
Matt,
You bring up some great points. I intentionally “flawed” my research because with all the acronyms and marketing about Slick or Smooth – we’ll never know whether XS technology (RIO) is slicker than what Cortland uses.
Like “short” “long” and “thin” – we have no standard to measure slick or smooth, so coatings have to be felt or used for anglers to get a feel for their merits.
Only the tapers cannot lie – as the vendor can’t hide the length of his belly, the stairsteps he makes in the taper to thrust weight forward or yank it back.
What compounds all this is the unmentioned portion of how rods are matched to line sizes – and how some use 20 feet cast from the rod, and other companies use 40 feet to line size their tackle.
I don’t think I condemned anyone in the article. Using primarily the same taper on many of their lines suggests a Cortland afficianado will like ALL Cortland lines as they cast similar – that’s an asset of sorts.
I also studiously avoided all sink tip lines, as most have double compound tapers; a larger floating section near the junction of the sinking portion to keep the balance of the line afloat – and a much narrower sinking head that’s a byproduct of sinking lines and tungsten dust versus taper.
I would describe my work as a starting point for additional research, not as an indictment or completed thesis.
While I do agree with you about the fact that a good deal of all this is just marketing strategies at work, you’re considering the LENGTH of each section of a line, while you’re not considering mass, thickness, etcetera. You’re not considering color either, which in some cases IT IS relevant, for example, an intermediate taper will be significantly different if it’s translucent/clear or solid coloured.
Agreed. I’m comparing only the items that are in the public domain. These companies do not publish their thickness, mass (per segment), or other proprietary information – so it’s all we have that’s concrete…
I will suggest that taper drives much of the casting behavior felt by the angler (not all, most) – and therefore is just as important to note – especially where manufacturers are using the same taper on other lines, or using another vendors taper to copy its performance.
The information is telling – but not the whole story.
I hate the fact that fly line cost so much. I am a friend of John Betts, the fly tier (Fly Rod and Reel “angler of the year’, hall of fame, etc. no slacker, maybe you’ve heard of him. He operates in Off-the-grid mode. He makes his own rods, reels, and flies. He taught me how. He wrote a book about he rods and how to make a great, no, superlative, rod for 15$. Yeah, 15$. I have a draft of his new book on how to make your own synthetic fly line for 10$, yeah you heard me. Superior to any produced on the market today for casting, performance, and oh, he said his line is over a decade old-used quite a bit, and no where near worn out. You can experiment with the taper till the cows come home but he has all the formulas worked out after 10 yrs of study. He is the Einstein of fishing. It takes about 3 hours to make the line. So, if I publish this 100 page gem on a CD with video that takes you through it step by step, would you pay 11$ for this CD-PDF book. The reason I am asking is he asked me to publish it for him, what do you think?
Pete,
I would totally be interested at $11. Even if I never made one. I loved the book on building wood rods on a lathe. Is that the $15 rod you were speaking of ? If so, that doesn’t factor in equipment costs. It is still an interesting read and a testament to ingenuity. I would look forward to the cd/pdf.
15$, yeah. I used a drill instead of a lathe to spin the rod (you can read about the clapper I made in his book). OK, I spent 14$ on the drill, I could have borrowed one from my brother. The wood strips I cut on a friends table saw (2 beers). Yeah, I had the sandpaper and glue. My wife had silk thread. I used linseed oil and clear nail polish for the wrappings. I did 80% of the work with a wood plane I bought a garage sale for 3$. John and I build are own reels. See the reelsmithing website. We only used a n electic handrill, hacksaw, 2 files, sandpaper, and ingenuity.