Comments on: Part 1: The Timid Fellow’s Guide to Dyeing

By: Dyeing the rarer forms of Blue Dun capes | Singlebarbed

Dyeing the rarer forms of Blue Dun capes | Singlebarbed — Tue, 07 Sep 2010 11:40:22 +0000

[...] Some of my past pieces on dyeing covers the rudiments of water temperature, color, and dye selection, the rules are the same only the dollar values increase; good preparation, a known dye, and using some rudimentary lessons from cooking school … [...]

By: howard suzuki

howard suzuki — Fri, 18 Jun 2010 11:09:51 +0000

Thanks for an excellent succinct and clear article on dyeing animal hair and bird feathers.
Now I know it is not worthwhile for me to try to dye some of the animal fur I have collected.

By: Dying materials - The North American Fly Fishing Forum

Dying materials - The North American Fly Fishing Forum — Mon, 15 Mar 2010 21:40:24 +0000

[...] on all things do it yourself when it comes to fly tying. Here is his two part piece on the subject. Part 1: The Timid Fellow’s Guide to Dyeing | Singlebarbed Part 2: The timid fellows guide to dyeing hair | Singlebarbed Hope this helps some what. [...]

By: Part 2: The timid fellows guide to dyeing hair | Singlebarbed

Part 2: The timid fellows guide to dyeing hair | Singlebarbed — Mon, 11 Jan 2010 07:05:10 +0000

[...] In Part 1 we covered most of the dyeing process – and the difficulty associated with matching a known color. The steps are the same for dyeing anything; first a cleanse and prep of the original material, followed by immersion in hot water so the shock of the dye bath doesn’t induce physical change. [...]

By: KBarton10

KBarton10 — Tue, 05 Jan 2010 16:18:19 +0000

Aluminum and plastic can both retain dye if not thoroughly cleaned. Salt fixed dyes can etch aluminum making them very hard to clean.

On the whole, no. But there is a higher chance of traces from your last color seeping from the pot into the current color solely due to the inability to clean them effectively.

As most dye baths are heated (not all) plastic has never been an option other than as a soaking bowl – either soaking in a cold dye, or soaking prior to going into the hot pot.

Even my porcelain bowls are showing signs of etching from salt, the bottoms are no longer smooth.

I’d stick with the tried and true.

By: Monty Montana

Monty Montana — Tue, 05 Jan 2010 16:13:03 +0000

Hey K…great information…as stated by some of the others.
Question…have you experienced a differance in the dye colors when you change the material of the containers you mix in…for example…a differance in the exact dye mixture from aluminum to plastic.

By: John Peipon

John Peipon — Tue, 05 Jan 2010 12:13:20 +0000

Ah,yes. The excellent adventure! Considering the amount of time that both you and A.K. Best are willing to devote to preparing and dying feathers and fur, I think that I’ll stay out of the kitchen. Which I worked long and hard to provide.
Maybe, it’s just to much like work for me. Or, I just don’t care if the yellow tint is more delecate than the store bought duck feather. Perhaps, when I retire…not!
By the way, if my memory of college chem serves me well, Muriatic Acid is a 10% Hydrochloric Acid solution. It’s fairly corrosive.

I think that I’ll stick to brewing beer!

By: Part 1: The Timid Fellow's Guide to Dyeing | Singlebarbed Accident by about

Part 1: The Timid Fellow's Guide to Dyeing | Singlebarbed Accident by about — Tue, 05 Jan 2010 01:56:18 +0000

[...] more here: Part 1: The Timid Fellow's Guide to Dyeing | Singlebarbed By admin | category: acetic acid | tags: acetic acid, chilli, most-common, muriatic, [...]

By: KBarton10

KBarton10 — Mon, 04 Jan 2010 20:48:32 +0000

That’s great information. Rather than guesswork over shades just wet a feather and use that as the example.

Much simpler – less mysterious. We like it.

By: Sully

Sully — Mon, 04 Jan 2010 20:40:31 +0000

P.S. Just checked the Rit page. They say the formula to make “Gold” is 1 pkg. Golden Yellow plus 1 1/2 tsp Tan.
You’ve got it wired.