The eBay delivery arrived this morning, and the 10′ Orvis T3 was unlimbered in an orgy of torn paper and impatient swearing. Per the prior post – I purchased a “cosmetic second” rod from Redwoodloft, who’s busy pumping Orvis clothing and tackle onto eBay.
Outside of the vendor selling the item, I’ve always assumed cosmetic seconds are minimal risk, as each rod is inspected before it’s wrapped and structural problems are rejected at the blank stage – not wrapped, finished, dried, and discarded once the rod is completed.
My cursory examination could not find any defect other than a visual blemish in the graphite near the ferrule. I slapped a Princess together with a WF7F Cortland line and retired to the back yard to try this beast.
This is a brawler rod, not like the older Orvis “noodle” rods they were famous for in the 80’s and 90’s, this is a “tip flex” Winston-style taper that you could trim a hedge with without endangering the tip.
It’s not a 7 weight at all, it’s an 8 weight, and that may be the defect. This model is no longer offered which may why it was sold to the jobber as a second.
Works fine for me as this was intended to replace my Bass rod, flinging hair bugs or waterlogged 6 inch minnows into the breeze, long enough and with enough backbone to keep them big hooks away from me and the thin skin of my float tube.
My personal preference is to have the balance point on the rod under my casting thumb, it minimizes fatigue as your hand doesn’t have to fight the weight of the rod to turn the tip over on the forward cast. You can see the balance point in the above photo – the rod outweighs the fully equipped Princess, so I’ll bump the line weight and reel model enough to get the pivot point moved toward the reel (by about 3 inches).
I added a System 9 reel with a WF8F loaded and shifted the balance back to where I need it. The extra ounce or two will be offset by the ease of pivot on the forward cast, allowing me to fish all day without suffering.
This rod was labeled a “mid-flex 7.5” – it’ll bend to the centerline with 100 feet of 7 weight in the air, but acts better with the WF8 line – it can throw the entire 110 feet without undue effort, due to its length. I think them Orvis designers filmed the Winston practice – as this is a “beat you to death” Western taper, not some gossamer small stream rod.
Nicely equipped and furnished – gold tinted stripping and snake guides, gold thread wraps, and a solid full metal reel seat – a positive uplocking style reminiscent of older Powell rods.
At $162.50 I’m feeling like I got a really nice deal, that’s because of my unwillingness to part with the $500 + dollars to land this year’s model. It’s required of old guys, we’ve got to be a curmudgeon at something..
It’s scheduled to rain again next weekend, but if it doesn’t I’ll be attempting to get blood on it…
Technorati Tags: Orvis T3 rod, fly rods, eBay, curmudgeon, graphite
Once you get a slaw dog juice on the cork grip, it’ll be a real fly rod.
Your feeble attempts at mind control are failing, Slaw Dogs are an abomination, and rightly so.
The test is simple, place a Slaw Dog on the ground and step on it, note how it looks the same – that’s a clue.
Who the hell would step on a slaw dog? Now you’re just being mean.
Hey… glad you like the T3!!
Thanks for the good word…
I can assure you we did not film anyone, but I did lose a lot of money on the Patriots.
James,
Can you shed some light on the “R” stamped on the grip? eBay vendors have three seperate versions; “reject” – “refurbished” – or “second” … which is it, do you know?
A refurbish would be a perfectly fine rod without blemish, a reject sounds like it may even contain a structural problem, and “second” would imply a cosmetic issue.
It’s likely the readers would be interested in which it really is – in spite of my guesswork..
Thanks.
The R stands for “Really Awesome”
Actually, you are correct, it stands for “Refurbished”. They are rods sold at our tent sales and things like that.
Thanks for the insight, James – it’s much appreciated.